Curly Nikki | Natural Hair Styles and Curly Hair Care

Hola Chicas,

Spa Nik is on and poppin'! I just applied my new Bentonite Mask (thanks to SuburbanBB):

• Bentonite clay
• Yogurt
• Honey
• Filtered Water

The honey and yogurt added some much needed thickness to my mix. I can't wait to check out the results! I'm also in the midst of a facial (bentonite and honey). Once I rinse the mask out of my hair, I plan to do a moisturizing DT with Aubrey Organics Honey Suckle Rose and Jessicurl Weekly Deep Treatment, with heat of course. After that, the fun begins! I'm going to try a Twist-n-Curl with Lustrasilk Shea and Mango! By the way, the Shea and Mango has the exact same ingredients as the Lustrasilk Shea. Weird.

I'll keep you posted!
nik

________________________________________________________________

Okay, I'm going to do this blow by blow...

2:58 p.m.- I just rinsed my Bentonite Mask. And WOW!!!! My hair is very defined and soft. I think the yogurt (full fat plain yogurt) and honey are keepers! As I stated before, the mix was easier to apply, and it rinsed out just as easily. Yogurt is considered a mild protein treatment, so be sure to do a moisturzing deep treatment afterward, if you decide to experiment. From what I've read, yogurt is a great ingredient to add to your conditioners or mud treatments, because it packs a moisture punch, and the lactic acid helps to smooth the hair.

I couldn't wait to try the Lustrasilk, so after my final rinse, I added a glob to each side of my hair (2 sections) and worked it in. The consistency is perfect- smooth and creamy, not too light, not too heavy. It has a light fragrance, of which I can't put a finger on right now. It was quite nostalgic dipping into that tub full of orange goop- it's been at least 3 years since I last used this product. I then applied Aubrey Organics Honey Suckle Rose in sections, Jessicurl WDT to the ends, covered my hair in a plastic cap, and doned my Micro Heat Cap. I'm going to leave this in for about 30 minutes.

I can already tell that the Lustrasilk is going to provide a bit of slip, which is definitely helpful while twisting. It also weighed my waves and curls down a bit, just like my beloved DevaCare One.

For you Bentoniters, definitely try adding honey and yogurt to your hair mask...you will be pleasantly surprised! Adding honey to my face mask proved successful as well. After rinsing, I sealed my wet face with a pea sized amount of Shea Butter. Smooove as a baby's butt :)
I'll check back in soon!

4:30 p.m.- 3 showers later and I'm finally done! Rinsing out the DT revealed ultra defined, shiny waves and curls. RIDIC! Seriously. I added Lustrasilk to both sections (left and right), and twisted. Prior to rolling, I spritzed Juices and Berries on my ends, and sealed with Naturally Me Body Butter. My hair is very soft, incredibly defined, and feels moisturized. I'm still soaking wet, so it is too soon to judge the performance of the Lustrasilk. I can't wait until I'm dry. I promise to post pics tomorrow :D

Off to seek out some food.

You have until midnight to get your Journey to Natural story in before I draw a winner!!! If you miss it, don't worry, we'll get another round going really soon! Here's the link with the submission info: http://www.curlynikki.com/2008/12/cleaning-out-my-closet-give-away.html

Also, for those of you that have submitted your story in the past week, your name will still go in the drawing, despite the fact that your interview is not posted yet. I'm doing one or two heads a day, so it will take a couple of weeks to get everyone up! Don't worry, I haven't forgot ya!

Later Gators,
Nik

-Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
I was a long term transitioner, I guess I transitioned for 11 months. I wanted to have at least 3 inches of new growth since I was planning to start dreadlocks after I did my Big Chop.

-When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
I BC’d in July 2006. I was really happy to see my natural hair and also very excited because I couldn’t wait to start my dreadlock journey.

-What was your transition routine? Staple Hair Styles?
During my transition, I would flat twist the front and curl the back where the majority of relaxed ends were. I basically did spiral curls with regular rollers and smaller curls with jheri curl rod curls. I would mix it up depending on how I felt. As my natural hair grew out, I started to go to a natural hair stylist and she would two strand twist my hair and pin it up. Many persons at one time thought I was fully natural when I still in fact had lots of straightened ends, just that they had been twisted up in a style!!!!!!!! I continued to treat my hair every two weeks and wash every week. That was my routine when I was relaxed so I stuck to it.

-How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
I just continued treating my hair, I used mainly mizani and motions hair products. Can’t remember what they were since that was almost three years ago. I remember it being a motions hair grease and Mizani Treatments like Kerafuse and Hydrafuse.

-Why did you choose to go natural? Are you happy with your decision?
I decided to go natural because I wanted a change, I was tired of having to relax my hair and using the chemicals. I was also excited to see my natural tresses and how they would look as they transformed into dreadlocks. However, I only kept my dreadlocks from August 2006- January 2008. I was so frustrated with the fuzziness and my thin hair roots (this was from re-locking every two weeks) that I sat down one day and started opening the dreadlocks. It took me 5 days. I have not regretted that decision to this day as I am enjoying being able to run my hands through my hair and actually comb it.

I ran across this yesterday on Naturallycurly.com:

From AlkalizeForHealth Toxic Ingredient Directory :
"Cationic surfactants - These chemicals have a positive electrical charge. They contain a quaternary ammonium group and are often called "quats". These are used in hair conditioners, but originated from the paper and fabric industries as softeners and anti-static agents. In the long run they cause the hair to become dry and brittle. They are synthetic, irritating, allergenic and toxic, and oral intake of them can be lethal.· Stearalkonium chloride · Benzalkonium chloride · Cetrimonium chloride · Cetalkonium chloride · Lauryl dimonium".

And guess what, DevaCare One Condition, most certainly contains 2 of them!!! SheaMoisture contains one. What's a curl to do? At some point I have to draw the line, or simply start making my own products. I've been using DevaOne for almost a year now with no problems, but this is disturbing, especially the bit about it making hair 'dry and brittle' over time. Grrrr....

I've decided that I can't wait to try the Lustrasilk...especially considering this new info, so I'll be experimenting with it today after a DT. This is so disconcerting! Parabens, sulfates, silicones, quats, mineral oil, alcohols...seriously, where does one draw the line?

Edited to Add: Be sure to read the comments below for updates about this post! I'm not giving up my Deva!!!

Later Gators,
Nik

I live within 2 miles of Sally's...it's a gift and a curse ;0) I have successfully secured the Lustrasilk and plan to experiment on Sunday!!!! I'm thinking:

-Co-Wash as usual with Hello Hydration
-Rinse and spritz with Greg Juice or Juices and Berries
-Apply Lustrasilk as I would DevaCare One C
-Twist
-Spritz ends with Juices and Berries
-Seal with Naturally Me Body Butter or 100% Shea Butter

I'm praying this works... this is the first time in a looooong time that my PJ exploits didn't break me, or piss my husband off. I spent $2.98...taxes included :D

Later Gators,
Nik

Seriously...sometimes I need to back away from my laptop. I'm such a PJ.

While browsing on NaturallyCurly.com, I ran across this thread: http://www.naturallycurly.com/curltalk/showthread.php?t=67182


Ingredients: Water, Stearamidopropyl, Dimethylamine, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Shea butter, Mango Seed Butter, Cholesterol, Soybean Oil, Safflower Oil,Wheat GermOil, aloe VeraExtract, Fragrance, Vitamin E, Methyl Paraben Propyl Paraben, Phosphoric Acid Sodium Chloride DMDM Hydantoin, Disodium EDTA, Yellow #5, Yellow #6

Apparently, lots of curly divas are using Lustrasilk SheaButter Cholesterol as a leave-in. Yes, the Lustrasilk from the Ethnic Section of Sally's Beauty Supply! I used this back in the day as a DT, but never thought to leave it in. I don't know why I stopped using it....maybe I thought it was too cheap to be good, lol. Anyway, curlies are using this as a leave-in, and getting shine, body, and definition. It's protein and mineral oil free and costs less than 5 dollars. I'm literally going to get dressed and run to Sally's as soon as I publish this post!

I plan to try this in place of DevaOne this weekend. Have any of you tried it? If you have, or are planning to, please let me know your results! I'd love to have a 3 dollar staple.

Later Gators,
Nik

I'm so excited! Not only is it Friday, but I think I've stumbled upon a HG status sealing regimen.

This is my third experience using Oyin's Juices and Berries (the same make-up as Frank Juice, with a summery sweet smell), and NaturallyMe's Body Butter to seal the ends of my wet twists. My Twist-n-Curl sets are in heaven, and lasting for upwards of 4 days without drying out. This is major!! My ends are glorious, even the fragile color treated ones...like silk rope.

Oyin's Juices and Berries- Liquid Leave-in Conditioner

Ingredients: Purified water infused with horsetail, lavender, nettle, roses, and chamomile; organic flaxseeds; aloe vera juice; vegetable glycerine; essences of lavender, sweet orange, ylang ylang, and rosemary; grapefruit seed extract; citric acid; fragrance; and love

How I use it: Frank Juice/Greg Juice/Juices and Berries (all the same, just different fragrance) is surprisingly moisturizing. I'm not a fan of liquid leave-in's but this is a great supplement to my routine. During the detangling process, I spritz J&B on already conditioner saturated hair, to help work out the kinks. After rinsing out the co-wash conditioner, and prior to applying DevaOne as a leave-in, I spritz a little J&B throughout for added moisture. Finally, after twisting my hair, I thoroughly saturate the ends with Juices and Berries and finally seal that in with Naturally Me Body Butter. Roll and Set!

Tips: Don't use too much- you will quickly find yourself in a sticky situation. You can also use this to refresh 2nd and 3rd day hair. Instead of spraying onto my twist-n-curl, which would undoubtedly lead to frizz, I spray it on my fingers, and slick a little on the ends of each individual curl. Works great!

Naturally Me Body Butter

Obviously, the title of this product suggests that it is intended for your body. But one glance at the ingredients, and you quickly come to the realization that this would be the perfect hair butter as well. I've received tons of free hair prodcuts from smaller companies, but this is one of the few that I actually decided to purchase. The consistency is perfect- whipped and smooth, like Shea Butter sent down from the heavens! It melts into my hair, revealing soft, moisturized curls for days on end. The price is DEFINITELY right. You can cop an 8oz jar for only $15.99! Dare I say- I think I like it more than Jane Carter's Nourish and Shine...it's much less greasy and easier to work with, plus its 5 dollars cheaper. A little definitely goes a long way.

Ingredients: Unrefined Shea Butter, Palm Kernel Oil and Essential Oil.

How I use it: After spritzing the hair with J&B, I seal each end with Body Butter. I also use it on 2nd, 3rd and 4th day hair for shine, and to smooth away the frizzies. It offers a light hold, just like 100% shea.

Purchase Oyin's Frank Juice from HERE. Much quicker shipping than buying it directly from Oyin.

Purchase Naturally Me Body Butter from HERE.


In the above pics (4th day hair!!), I employed the following:

• Herbal Essence Hello Hydration to co-wash (Rinse completely)
  
• Juices and Berries for added moisture
• DevaCare One Condition as a leave-in
• SheaMoisture Shea Butter Leave-in
• Twist
• Spritz ends with Juices and Berries
• Seal ends with Naturally Me Body Butter
• Roll
• Set :D

Later Gators,
Nik

-Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
I consider myself to be a long term transitioner. I began by reading Black Hair Media and wanted to learn how to have healthy relaxed hair. I learned so much that I began stretching 5-6 months at a time. One day I realized that I didn't need relaxers anymore if I could go 5-6 months without one. So - I began transitioning without doing a BC - because I had worked so hard to get to APL and I didn't want to be bald.

-When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
I BC'd on November 16th, 2008. At first I cried because I wasn't used to my hair being so short - and I had really worked hard to get healthy APL hair. But after about 3 days - I was in love with my natural curls.

-What was your transition routine? Staple Hair Styles?
I'm currently on a no heat challenge. I stayed away from heat while transitioning. I refused to straightened more than once a month. So roller sets and bantu sets were and are my best friends. I wet set them at night, sleep on them - throw on a head back the next day. I swear by diluted Lotta Body, Giovanni's Direct Leave-in and Castor Oil (I just added castor oil this month and I love it) to set my curls. Curlformers and bantu knots are my style tools right now. I wash once a week and DC with Queen Helen's Cholesterol. I add a little hair milk before I mix my lotta body, giovanni's and water and seal with castor oil for my curly sets.
Although my hair is about shoulder length in the front and almost apl in the back - I can't rock a pony tail - so headbands and bobby pins are my friends.

-How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
I added hair milk (and sometimes hair butter) to my wet hair before styling. I moisturize with Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave in ( that name sooooo long) when I didn't plan on setting my hair right away. And when I baggied (in the beginning of my transition) I used Care Free Gold Hair Activator on my new growth and ends. I sealed with Carol's Daughter Tui oil or EVOO.

-Why did you choose to go natural? Are you happy with your decision?
Going natural was the best decision of my life. I've done away with a lot of chemicals in my life - from my cleaning products to my foods. I'm living a more natural life - and hair was a necessary step. I love the versatility of natural hair. When I was straight hair - I can have it - when I want curly hair - I can have it..and anything in between.

-Why did you choose to go natural? Are you happy with your decision?
I chose to go natural because I started 2008 with a goal to be healthy, happy, and me! I wanted to be healthy all around and not just so regular. My relaxed styles just made me seem like everyone else, I just really wanted to find out about the real me. Due to the relaxer and weekly doobies, my edges were thinning out, and my hair was constantly all over the floor, and in a very unhealthy state. I also love working out and if I worked out too hard, my doobie would always sweat out. My life was limited because of my hair.
I wanted to make a good impression on myself, and rebuild my self-esteem. The woman I was, was not the woman God planned for me to be. So now I am reacquainting myself with this Brown Skinned Queen and loving every bit of it.

-Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
I was a bit of both. 6 years ago, after a disaster at the salon with a texturizer, I watched in horror as my shoulder length hair fell out in clumps. At first I clung to those damaged strands, but after a while, I gave up and I started wearing a style of weave called interlocking. In the back of my mind, I think I knew I was growing my hair out. However, I really only started to consciously think about going natural in October 2008. So physically, I was a long term transitioner, but mentally I was short.

-When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
Jan 2nd 2009. My BC was actually a LC. I took the extensions out. My first scissor slice was on Youtube. I was shocked at how easy it was to let go. I felt like a huge weight had been lifted off my shoulders. I was surprised at how long my hair was. However the ends were really damaged and in the end, I chopped 4 inches off.

-What was your transition routine? Staple Hair Styles?
Long Layered interlocking, that I did myself.

-How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
I didn't take very good care of the new hair until about the last year. Then I started to moisturize with Organics Temple gel.

-Why did you choose to go natural? Are you happy with your decision?
The decision stemmed from a few areas. One was of course being inspired by the hair Gurus out there sharing their information about how they got their oh so amazing locks- including you CN! Plus Curly Chronicles, ItsMsHeatherNicole, ReneeZoe, Afrobella, Teri@ Biracial hair, Motowngirl and the legions of others out there youtube-ing us to a revolution!

Another reason was I noticed that the hair line was breaking and a little spot in the front wasn't growing back. It was because of all the pulling of the extensions. I didn't want to end up with a receding hair line.

But the most important reason was I started to wonder why I felt like I had to cover my hair up. Why any of us feel like we need to cover our hair up or worse cling to damaged relaxed ends (let's be honest, it looks terrible) is beyond me. It's a question I still don't have the answer too. I think it's even worse here in England. I hope to help spur this movement over here in the UK by contributing to my own blog- cherrylola.com, discovering products available here that work with our hair, trying to ascertain why we are the way we are and maybe inspire others just as I have been.

I am ecstatic about my decision. Let's keep it Going. Let's keep on talking. Let's keep it curly!

For instructions on how to re-create this style, click HERE.

For instructions on how to re-create this style, click HERE.

(All ingredients are available and purchased at Trader Joe's, except for Rhassoul)

1. 1 can of coconut milk
2. 1 heaping tablespoon of organic cocoa powder
3. 2 heaping tablespoons of rhassoul clay (available for purchase at www.mountainroseherbs.com)
4. 3 heaping tablespoons of honey
4. (Optional) 1 splash of vanilla extract
5. (Optional) 1 tablespoon of whey protein
6. (Optional) 1 tea bag

Instructions
1. Heat up coconut milk on the stove so it is simmering hot, add teabag if you would like (I have nettle and horsetail teabags from the Vitamin Shoppe I like experimenting with)
2. Add cocoa and honey and whisk gently
3. Add whey protein (the powder supplement) if you would like a light protein treatment and whisk
4. Add rhassoul, whisk until blended and let cool down so it is not hot, but warm

Pour the mixture into an old conditioner bottle or tall glass, whatever you prefer, and smooth all over your head/scalp and hair.

Leave on for 10-15 minutes and rinse under warm water.

Soft, luscious hair for days!

Note: You can add cocoa butter if you have coarser hair (can be purchased from mountainroseherbs.com), but I find that it is too heavy for my fine strands.

For more of Breezybaby, check out her Fotki: http://public.fotki.com/breezybaby/

I'm thinking of incorporating a few of these items into my Bentonite Clay recipe...the honey and tea is a definite must!

-Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
I was short term. I wanted a short natural style and thought about it for a year before I finally did the big chop. I had relaxed hair that was about shoulder length, but it was always dry and prone to breaking and frizzing. I rarely wore it down because I couldn't get it to look right and I hated spending lots of time on straightening and curling, etc. One day a girl at work came in with her new twa and looked AMAZING and incredibly beautiful (she would have looked gorgeous no matter what she did to her hair, lol, but still) and I started thinking about cutting mine short, too. I played with the idea for almost a year, pulling my hair back and squinting into the mirror to try to see how I might look. Then, in 2003, I moved to Oregon and started grad school. I was super busy and the weather was rainy and damp at least 8 months out of the year -- bad hair city. So I grew my natural hair out for about 8 weeks and one day near the end of October 2003, I went to the salon and had it chopped off! The guy working at the front desk cheered. I actually met him again several years later and he reminded me of that day -- funny.

Now I'm almost done with graduate school and I want a change. I'm growing out my twa into a nice, big, kinky curly mass of hair. My last haircut was October 30th, 2008. I'm looking forward to twist-n-curls and afros and other cute, hot hairstyles. The in-between phases can be a little challenging, so I read Curly Nikki all the time for ideas.

-When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
I BC'ed about 5 years ago and kept it short that whole time. I pretty much loved it immediately. I liked the texture and I like how my face looked with curly, rather than straight, hair. On the bus on the way home from chopping my hair off, this teenage girl asked if I was a model. (Far from it! I was extremely flattered. :) I took it as a good sign that my new style was as sophisticated and cute as I'd hoped.

-What was your transition routine? Staple Hair Styles?
I didn't have a transition routine. I went from ponytails to a short twa at lightning speed. :) For my twa I used Aveda's Humectant Pomade and later Blended Beauty's Happy Nappy Styles. I'd shower, apply the product to wet hair, throw on some makeup, and go.

Now that I'm growing the twa out, this feels more like "transitioning." My hair is currently in that phase where it's not a neat little twa and it's not long enough to do anything but tiny twists or comb coils -- and I'm really lazy about doing anything with my hair that takes more than 10 minutes. So I've been continuing the wash-n-go, currently with a headband to create some shape. On my longer hair I use either Kinky Curly Curling Custard with Kinky Curly Knot Today, or Curls Whipped Cream and jojoba oil. I'm liking the second combo better.

I use Giovanni 50/50 Balancing Shampoo once a week and Bumble & Bumble Super Rich conditioner afterward. For conditioner washes I'm using Herbal Essences Hello Hydration, which is fine, but I might try something all-natural after this bottle is done. I deep condition about twice a month with a rotating cast of conditioners. I don't have a favorite yet. Most recently (yesterday) I used L'Oreal Nature's Therapy Mega Strength Fortifying Deep Treatment. It has wheat protein and made my hair feel kind of stiff afterward, but it looks good and feels soft now.

-How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
Again, this was not an issue. I did find it necessary to use a good conditioner and a moisturizing styling product (this was why I switched to Happy Nappy Styles) on my short natural hair because it was very dry.

-Why did you choose to go natural? Are you happy with your decision?
I chose to go natural for a lot of reasons. One, I really started thinking about the fact that Black women are the only women on the planet who consistently feel the need change the texture of their hair. Is our hair really that unacceptable? I wanted to show by my own actions that I think our hair is perfectly acceptable and beautiful the way it is. Second, I needed an easy hair routine for my new schedule and climate. Third, I wanted a big change. I wanted to look completely different and cutting my hair was a good way to achieve that. I wanted a new experience of myself, and getting to know my hair was a wonderful way to jumpstart that process.

And I couldn't be happier with my decision. Having natural hair has given me so much freedom and time that I would never have had otherwise. As my hair grows longer I can also be creative with my looks and really enjoy the versatility and drama that comes with this hair type. Of course it's not always easy to fight the Euro-centric (or mixed-centric, lol) hair ideals, but it helps to surround myself with natural hair inspirations that have my hair type. Overall, I don't think I could ever go back to relaxing my hair. I love it too much.

Photos:
#1: My short twa, near the end of October 2008
#2: Today's hairstyle, a wash-n-go with headband
#3: Side view

-Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
I was a short term transitioner at 5 months. I have very thick hair and I thought it would be easier to take care of just one hair texture.

-When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
My last relaxer was November 2002 and I BC'ed on April 1, 2003. My initial reaction was excitement because I never knew what my natural hair looked like. I had worn my hair relaxed since I was 4 years old.

-What was your transition routine? Staple Hair Styles?
I initially started wearing comb coils and two-strand twists. These, however, were not my staple hair styles. I really didn't care for protective styles and couldn't wait for it to grow longer so I could wear a really big Wash N' Go. The coils and twists did allow for my hair to grow very quickly. After that I started wearing Wash N' Go's everyday by adding leave-in conditioner and IC Fantasia Gel to soaking wet hair. I would shake it, and sometimes not shake it, and go!

-How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
Since I didn't transition for very long, I didn't have a lot of breakage at the new growth line. I would moisturize my hair with Paul Mitchell The Conditioner, Aveda Elixir Leave-on Conditioner and Aura Leave-in Conditioner. Once I experienced a little breakage, I made the BC.

-Why did you choose to go natural? Are you happy with your decision?
I chose to go natural because I had never seen my natural hair before. My hair had been relaxed for as long as I could remember. I was tired of the relaxers, perm burns, sitting in the salon all day, etc. I am very happy with my decision.

I'm sure you remember the Sink or Swim test of Porosity. If not, check it out! Last night, while browsing through the forums on NaturallyCurly.com, I came across a wonderful thread chock full of healthy strand info, and a different test of porosity! But first, a quick reminder about what porosity actually is:

Low Porosity
Low porosity is when the cuticle of the hair shaft is too compact and does not permit moisture to enter or leave the hair shaft. Hair with low porosity has a tendency to repel product rather than absorb it.
Normal Porosity
With normal porosity, the cuticle is compact and inhibits moisture from leaving or entering the hair shaft.
High Porosity
Hair with high porosity, also known as “overly porous” hair, has an open cuticle that both absorbs and releases moisture easily.

POROSITY TEST
To determine your own hair's porosity, grasp a hair strand firmly between your fingers. Slide the thumb and index finger of your other hand from end to scalp (opposite direction as for texture test). If your fingers "catch" going up the strand, or feel like they are ruffling up the hair strand, your hair is overly porous. If it is smooth, you have normal porosity. If your fingers move very fast up the hair strand and it feels exceptionally slick, you have low porosity.

So what happens if you're overly porous? The expert, Struttswife, recommends the following:

'Finishing products can sometimes be helpful in helping to keep moisture retained within the hair shaft on a temporary basis, but your best bet is to fill in those gaps if possible with a reconstructor.'

I think I have high porosity issues, especially on the last 3-4 inches or so. I can definitely feel something bumpy or ruffely (is that a word?). My 'newer' growth (the first 8-10 inches or so) is much happier. What about you?

It's weird because I've actually been thinking of doing a light protein treatment lately. I'm all about balance, despite my protein sensitivity. Last weekend, on a PJ frenzy, I purchased Aubrey Organics GPB Conditioner- a protein conditioner containing Glycoproteins which claims to strengthen hair fiber, repair damage from salon treatments and restore softness, manageability and shine...all while being 100% natural, and devoid of Wheat Protein, my arch nemesis. I still have highlights on my ends...which is ridiculous. My virgin ends are fine, but my colored ends are fragile. I'll probably do a mini protein treatment (ends only), and follow up with a moisturizing deep conditioning treatment. As always, I'll keep you posted!

Later Gators,
Nik

Why not turn to natural remedies when dealing with our natural hair woes? God blessed us with a plethora of Essential Oils (EO's) and Herbs that can fix every hair problem under the sun! I ran across THIS article, and thought you mixtresses out there may find the following helpful. For those of you that don't concoct your own spritzes, gels and sprays, flip those bottles over (your fav conditioners & moisturizers) and see if you can spot any of the following ingredients...

Dry Hair:
Herbs: parsley, red clover, rosemary, sage, burdock, calendula, chamomile, comfrey leaf and root, elder flowers, horsetail, kelp, bladderwrack, irish moss, lavender, marshmallow, nettle, coltsfoot, white pine, green tea, ginsing, coconut milk ,cocoa powder, chlorella, annatto, rose, and orange powder.
EO’s: carrot seed, cedarwood, chamomile, clary sage, cypress, geranium, frankincense, jasmine, juniper, lavender, lemon, myrrh, palmarosa, peppermint, rose, rosemary, rosewood, clary sage, sandalwood, thyme,

Hair loss/Growth Stimulating:
Oils: seabuckthorn
Herbs: basil, burdock, nettle, parsley, rosemary, sage, yarrow, kelp (strengthens roots), horsetail, hibiscus, fenugreek, coconut milk, lavender, birch, watercress (encourages thick growth), yucca, thyme, and coltsfoot.
EO’s: basil, cajute, carrot seed, cedarwood, clary sage, cypress, eucalyptus, juniper, lavender, orange, peppermint, rosemary, clary sage, thyme, ylang ylang, lemon, yarrow, lemon balm, parsley.

Damaged Hair:
Herbs: basil, burdock, chamomile, calendula, elder flower, geranium, lavender, mullein, nettle, parsley, peppermint, rosemary, sandalwood, watercress, st johns wort, rosehips (strengthens hair shaft), hops, horsetail, ginko/fumitory (absorb nutrients), fenugreek, comfrey, cocoa powder, beer, alphalfa.
EO’s: basil, roman chamomile, lavender, geranium, peppermint, rosemary, sandalwood, st john’s wort, hops, parsley.

Dull Hair:
Herbs: basil, burdock, calendula, chamomile, fennel, horsetail, linden, marshmallow, mullein, nettle, parsley, rosemary, sage, watercress, kelp, fenugreek, cocoa powder, beer, alfalfa, hops.
EO’s: basil, roman chamomile, juniper, lemon, lemongrass, rosemary, parsley, clary sage.

Irritated Scalp:
Herbs: calendula, catnip, chamomile, comfrey, yucca, watercress, oregano, marshmallow, hops, hyssop, ginko, fenugreek, elder, cocoa powder, alfalfa .
EO’s: roman chamomile, blue chamomile, oregano, hops, hyssop, fennel, catnip, hyssop,

Sensitive Scalp:
Herbs: burdock, calendula, chamomile, horsetail, marshmallow, nettle, oregano, yucca, milk thistle, hyssop, fennel, elder, lavender .
EO’s: chamomile, cedarwood, clary sage, ylang ylang, hyssop, lavender, oregano.

Dandruff:
Oils: Neem
Herbs: burdock, horsetail, lavender, nettle, peppermint, rosemary, sage, thyme, willowbark, yucca, parsley, green tea, fenugreek, coltsfoot.
EO’s: bay, cedarwood, clary sage, cypress, eucalyptus, juniper, lavender, lemon, myrrh, patchouli, peppermint, pine, rosemary, tea tree, ylang ylang.

I noticed that many of the herbs and essential oils listed above can actually resolve several hair issues all at once. It was very exciting to see that my favorite new spritz's ingredient list has just about every EO and herb mentioned in the Dry Hair category!

Oyin Handmade's Frank Juice ingredient list: Purified water infused with horsetail, lavender, nettle, roses, and chamomile; organic flaxseeds; aloe vera juice; vegetable glycerine; essences of lavender, sweet orange, ylang ylang, and rosemary; grapefruit seed extract; citric acid; and love

Check out my review of this product HERE.

Happy Monday!

After my two delightful experiences with Bentonite Clay, I began to wonder how often I could safely engage in this cleansing/softening clay treatment. I use to poo (hahah) 2 times a month, and I was hoping to use the clay treatment similarly. So, I contacted the ingredient guru, Ms. Anita Grant, so that she may shed some light on the situation. She sells both Bentonite and Rhassoul clay, among other goodies!

Please find our dialogue below:

CN: Hi Anita! I hope this email finds you well. I have a few quick questions. How often can I use Bentonite clay to cleanse and soften? Would bi-weekly be okay? What are the benefits of Rhassoul clay? and how does it compare to Bentonite? Thanks and looking forward to hearing from you soon!

AG: Bentonite contains over 70 natural occurring trace minerals like:
Silica- 61.4% (required for strong healthy hair growth and skin tissue regeneration)
Aluminum- 18.1%
Iron- 3.5%
Sodium- 2.3%
Magnesium- 1.7%
Calcium- 0.04%
Titanium- 0.02%
Potassium- 0.01%
Moisture- 7.8%
pH - 8.3 - 9.1

Effective & powerful when taken:
• Externally as a poultice, naturally curly Afro hair mask, face and body mud pack, sprinkled in the bath, and/or to reduce swelling.
• Internally as a supplement for those with mineral deficiencies.
Bentonite deposits can be found all over the globe but the largest concentrations are located in the Great Plains area of North America & the mountains of Italy. Bentonite is derived from the deposits of weathered volcanic ash. Bentonite is purported to be an effective natural intestinal detoxifying agent that has been used for centuries by native peoples around the world. Rhassoul contains natural silicon, magnesium, iron, calcium, potassium & sodium - with a deep cleansing, anti-microbial action that does not irritate the sebaceous glands. In fact, it regulates the amount of sebum secreted from the scalp. Rhassoul contains a high percentage of naturally occurring trace minerals like magnesium, and calcium.
Silica- 58% (required for strong healthy hair growth and skin tissue regeneration)
Aluminum- 2.47%
Iron- 0.64%
Sodium- 2.3%
Magnesium- 25.2%
Calcium- 2.34%
pH - 6.9 - 7.5

Clays and Clay Minerals The information/research above has been taken from my website. As you can see both Rhassoul and Bentonite Clay are very beneficial for our hair but on their own they made my hair dry out somewhat - hence the reason why I made my Rhassoul Deep Condishes. I don't use Bentonite Clay on it's own either because it did work for me but after a while my ends started to dry out. However, others have found success using the clays on their own. You'll need to decide for yourself whether using clays would be beneficial to your hair. Hope this helps.

CN:
Thanks for your speedy response! I have 2 more questions:
1. Could I add an oil to my Bentonite clay mix?
2. Were you using water or acv? I only use water because acv dries me out over time.

AG:
1. Depends on what the oil is. Perhaps you should try Bentonite on it's own on a small section of your hair before you mix with oil. However, if you are going to mix it with oil make it a light oil like VCO or Camellia Kissi or Sesame oil.

2. I use ACV *before* I shampoo or condish. With my mixes I either use water or an herbal infusion.

Here's a link to Anita Grant's site: https://anitagrant.com/

So, what do you guys think? It sounds like it's going to take some experimentation to ensure that I don't do more harm than good. I have yet to notice a drying effect, but I've only done 2 treatments. I will most certainly do a DT after each treatment from now on, and beginning next week, I will try mixing in a humectant (honey), and a bit of oil (probably grapeseed). I'll of course keep you ladies updated on my experiments!

Please leave your Bentonite (or Rhassoul) mixes in the comments section, for my benefit, and the benefit of your fellow readers!

Later Gators,
Nik

-Were you a long-term or short-term transitioner?
I transitioned for only 3 months before I BC'ed because I did not know how to deal with the two different textures. I was tired of looking like a hot mess!

-When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
I did the BC on December 30, 2008. Initially I felt excited, relieved, and free. I had wanted the BC for about a month before I finally got it so I was pretty calm when getting it cut.

-What was your transition routine? Staple Hair Styles?
I didn't really have a transition routine. I had a permanent wave, not a relaxer so I really didn't know what to do with it. Most of the time I just pulled it back with a big clip and wore a little hump in the front.

-How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
To prevent breakage at the new growth line, I started moisturizing with Cantu Shea Butter. I also continued to use the Wave Nouveau products.

-Why did you choose to go natural? Are you happy with your decision?
I chose to go natural because I loved my thick hair and wanted to do everything I could to make sure it stayed thick. I wanted to embrace what God blessed me with and show that natural beauty is true beauty. I will be going to college in the fall of this year and going natural is a symbol of a new chapter in my life. I'm extremely happy with my decision and proud of myself for listening to my hair and not others around me. No matter how difficult this hair journey gets, I'm never going to go back to the creamy crack! lol!

Hola Chicas!

This Giveaway was originally posted on 12/3/2008. I'm re-posting as a reminder that the deadline is quickly approaching!!! Get your Stories in!!!

12-3-2008
Thanks to all of you that voted on our next Give-Away Contest...the polls are now closed. After looking at the numbers, and receiving several email requests, I've decided to open it up to all 3- Journey to Natural Stories, Work Hair, and Fotki Links!

Journey to Natural Stories
If you have recently BC'ed (Big Chopped), are currently transitioning or natural (and documented your transition well), please answer the following questions and email the responses and 2-3 pics to nikki@curlynikki.com.
All submitted interviews will be posted on CurlyNikki.com!!!

Questions (tweak them for your situation!):

-Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
-When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
-What was your transition routine? Staple Hair Styles?
-How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
-Why did you choose to go natural? Are you happy with your decision?

Please send your responses and 2-3 pics to nikki@curlynikki.com Thanks a million ladies!!!

Corporate Hair
Submit pictures, and a succinct how-to of your favorite Work/ Corporate Style, to nikki@curlynikki.com. I'm style challenged, and I've received several inquiries about 'conservative' styles for the workplace. I wear my hair in one of two styles...Twist-n-Curl or CurlyNikki Bun....that's all I got! So if you're creative, please help us all out!! I feel that natural hair, in any style, is appropriate for the workplace, but I understand that everyone is not comfortable flaunting BIGGG hair in all its glory, and that some simply don't feel that its appropriate for all situations...so let's mix it up!

Fab Fotki Links
Submit your fotki, photobucket or flikr link to nikki@curlynikki.com. A true natural hair junkie's biggest joy in life, is looking through pictures...share yours with the CN.com community!

Everyone that participates between now and February 1, 2009 will go into a drawing to win 1 of my favorite products :D For a hint, check out Products I'm Using Now.

As the interviews, links, and pics/how-tos come in, I will post them for everyone's viewing pleasure. I pray that this endeavor will continue to inspire and educate kinky curly transitioners, newbies, and vets :D

Thanks for your continued support!

Nik

I've received several requests for a Kinky Twist How-To. Although I'm totally clueless, this kinky beauty isn't! Check out her YouTube:

-How long have you been natural?
I did the BC in October 2002, cutting my hair down to ¼”. I wore my hair in the “Halle Berry style”, and I got tired of relaxing, noticing my hair was so thin. Also, I have two daughters who are natural, and I kept telling them not to relax their hair, while I was relaxing mine every 8 weeks. So I had to set the example and let them see that mommy didn’t have to relax either. It’s the best decision I’ve made about my hair in my life.

-What is your regimen?
I have a simple regime. I co-wash with Suave conditioners, avoid products that have silicones and too much proteins in them, I’ve noticed they make my hair hard. My staple products for moisture is Long Aid Curl Activator gel, and I make a gel of Fruit Of The Earth Aloe Vera Gel (4oz) with vegetable glycerin (1oz), a little jojoba oil and a few drops of essential oil. For a leave-in I will use Biotera leave-in, I like the consistency, it’s clear liquid and it tames frizz and provide sunscreen for the hair. My hairstyles consist of the puff, flat twist-outs, and finger curls. I use a Denman brush and a wide tooth comb for detangling in the shower.

-What is the one thing you'd tell a newbie to help her on her journey?
I would tell a newbie to be patient, especially in the beginning because your hair will grow. Also, simple is better. Do not weigh your hair down with too much product, and “one size does not fit all”, what works for one curly will not work for you. In some instances it will take you a while to get the products to use for your hair down, and to develop a routine.

-How do you maintain length?
I recently cut my hair a few months ago due to damage from a few dye jobs, but I never had a problem retaining length. I make sure I moisturize my ends, I do not use direct heat except once a year, and I wear protective hair styles so that I don’t have to comb or brush my hair frequently.

-How do you preserve your curls at night?
At night I will sleep on a satin pillow case, and with certain hair styles I will tie a satin scarf on my head.

Helllllllo Nikki! You are sooo very special and intelligent and very nice for giving us hair tips. I'm telling you... you helped me in so many ways...you just don't know...Thank You Nikki. Wish I can meet you and chat about Henna...thank you soooooooo much for your moisturizing tips.

Update:
Well Nikki, I got my henna from hennaforhair.com (good stuff) like you said.....I followed your henna routine( products and all). I've already done two treatments....I have to say that I'm in LOVE...I mix my henna with lemon juice only...apply it to wet hair, sit under the dryer for a couple of hours, and finally go to bed. The next morning, I rinse and do my routine (routine I copy off of you by the way)...it came out real nice...first treatment my daughter noticed the color...my hair was was NOT dry at all..it was soft.....I still did a deep treatment (with the products you mentioned on your blog...Aubreys Honey Suckle Rose/DevaCare one/SheaMoisture/Herbal Essence/Shea Butter) Co-wash, Deep Treatment, Moisturize, Seal....my hair felt really nice...I'm a henna head for life...I will do this more often...it was fun and relaxing..

Hola Chicas!

My poor curls have truly been neglected lately, so I decided to treat myself to a Spa Night! The harsh, cold wind did a number on my ends, plus, it's been 2 weeks since my last DT, and more than a month since my last henna treatment.

I planned to have the henna in by 5, but I got a late start due to a mid-day nap...I got the 'itis' from over-eating at an Indian buffet.

Here's what I did tonight:

• Snipped the ends of each of my curls...more or less.
  
• Hopped in the shower, detangled using Kinky Curly Knot Today, and my Jilbere Shower Comb. My hair detangled like a dream after the mini trim!
  
• Applied a DT (Jessicurl WDT+Aubrey Organics Honey Suckle Rose) and put on my heat cap.
  
• Applied a Bentonite face mask- this mask has totally removed the black heads I had on the sides of my nose!
  
• Poured a glass of Shiraz while I waited 20 minutes for the mask to dry, and the DT to set.
  
• Rinsed Bentonite Clay.
• Rinsed DT. Sprayed my hair with Oyin's Frank Juice for extra moisture and slip.
  
• Applied Henna (200g henna+2cups of cooled green tea+ a lot of honey)
  
• Poured another glass of Shiraz
  

I took some pics of my trimmed ends so you guys can get an idea of how much hair I'm talking about. I also took pics of my hair post trim.

I finger combed through my curls, and whenever I felt a snag, which usually occured on the last 1/2 - 1 inch of each curl, I snipped, and moved to the next one.





Later Gators,
Nik

"I want to first say thank you for all the time you give in sharing your knowledge about products and other natural hair topics. I have found your blog so valuable and enjoy seeing what is next. My current issue is my Shea butter. I am not sure if I should melt it, whip it or what. I am currently just using as is and it is so HARD. If you melt it, what is the best way to do so? Do you mix it with other oils? Thanks in advance for your help!"

I asked this same question of my readers a few months ago. To check out their responses, click HERE. I simply melt it between my palms and apply...I'm not much of a mixtress. If I want an easier application process, I use Jane Carter's Nourish and Shine- it's Shea Butter based, but also contains Kokum, Mango and illipe butters, as well as essential and carrier oils, to thin things out. It's much smoother than straight Shea, and the smell is intoxicating!

I haven't henna'ed in over a month. Partially due to my experimentation with Bentonite clay...and partly due to my laziness. My hair is lacking in volume, but the shine and smoothness are still present. It's amazing how big my hair gets post henna. Amazing. I may do a DT before and after to prevent any dryness.

Does anyone else have plans to henna this weekend? If so, what's your recipe?!

Later Gators,
Nik

"Nikki, what is an ACV rinse good for? I've heard that it can be used in place of a shampoo?"

I've never done one, because I'm prone to dry hair. But Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) rinses are good for restoring balance to the hair (pH levels), providing slip for detangling, and sealing the cuticle for lots of shine. It helps get rid of product residue and build-up, revealing soft, bouncy hair. ACV rinses are also good for curlies with dandruff issues.

Here's an easy ACV Rinse recipe:

• Mix 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar with 1 quart distilled water and use as a final rinse after shampooing.

For more, see HERE.

SweetM, a CurlyNikki reader, hipped me to Chris Rock's brand new documentary that will explore the idea of 'good hair'. I'm a huge Rock fan, and I'm sure he'll do it justice. Apparently, he takes a very serious (but witty of course) look at our identity issues, and why some Black women equate long, flowing hair with beauty. It will be debuted at the Sundance Film Festival.

Here's the description:

"When Chris Rock’s daughter, Lola, came up to him crying and asked, “Daddy, how come I don’t have good hair?” the bewildered comic committed himself to search the ends of the earth and the depths of black culture to find out who had put that question into his little girl's head!"

For the rest of the article, see HERE.

Sweet Almond oil (SAO) is produced from sweet almonds or Prunus amygdalus. SAO, used as a carrier oil for blending essential oils, is beneficial for the skin, hair, and has overall health advantages as well. It can be used as an effective massage oil, and many use it to treat under eye bags, and eczema. For hair, moisten your fingertips with several drops of almond oil and gently massage the scalp. A comforting regimen, treating the scalp and hair to sweet almond oil, benefits follicles, prevents hair loss, provides shine and strengthens hair. It can also be used as a hot oil treatment. Eating raw almonds also has many benefits- it aids in digestion, keeps the brain healthy, reduces cholestrol and provides a healthy source of fat and protein.

SAO does not penetrate as deeply as other oils (i.e. EVOO, Coconut Oil), and shouldn't be used to 'moisturize' the hair. I use SAO the same way I use Shea Butter- as a sealant. I apply my water based leave-in or moisturizer and seal the wet, moisturized hair, with a very thin layer of the oil.

I have yet to try it on my scalp, but I'm very interested. I'm thinking of incorporating SAO into my weekly Deep Treatment, applying Jessicurl WDT+Aubrey ORganics Honey Suckle Rose, and finally SAO on top. I'll let you know what I think!

Benefits:

• Nourishes hair and smoothes hair cuticles
  
  
• Makes hair long, strong and thick
  
  
• Massaging with almond oil adds shine to the hair
  
  
• Controls hair fall

http://www.indiaparenting.com/health/data/health37.shtml

I'd be curious to know if any of you have used SAO as a natural remedy to lighten under-eye circles. I have a family member that is interested in trying this, and reading your reviews may encourage her!

"Nikki, what's the difference between yellow and white/gray Shea Butter? How can I tell if it is refined?"

The color of unrefined Shea Butter depends on the Shea Nut itself. The color can vary from off-white/beige to medium yellow. I've now tried Shea of both the beige and yellow varieties and can detect no discernible difference. As far as benefits are concerned, there is no difference between the various colors yielded by the different Shea nuts. Which means that yellow Shea is no better than beige. In spite of this fact, one can still quickly distinguish unrefined Shea Butter from bleached or processed Shea Butter, because refined Shea Butter is usually odorless, white, and creamy in texture. It looks completely different that unrefined Shea, and is usually more costly.

-How long have you been natural?
My last relaxer was in August of 2003. I transitioned for a little over a year by wearing twist-outs, braids, braid-outs and buns. I finally chopped off the remaining relaxed ends in October of 2004. It was so liberating!
In early 2008, I discovered naturallycurly.com and the cg method. This led to the rebirth of my hair. I cut it in last summer and have been following a modified cg method since then.

-What is your regimen?
Because my hair is short now, my regimen is very simple.
-I co-wash and finger comb as needed (usually 2x per week) using Suave Naturals Conditioner.
-On shampoo days, which is usually every 2-3 weeks, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose is my shampoo of choice because it is sulfate free.
-Fridays are Deep Treatment Day. The treatment consists of Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner, Honey and Coconut Oil. I then sit under the dryer for about 20 minutes followed by a Denman detangling session and a cool water rinse.
-Instead of a towel, I wrap my head with a t-shirt to absorb excess water.
- Most days, I finish with Kinky Curly Knot Today and Curling Custard. Because of the way my hair is cut, I like to slick down the back and sides, which KCCC is perfect for.
-Sometimes, I finish with Giovanni Direct Leave-in Conditioner, Jojoba Oil and a butter/cream.

-What is the one thing you'd tell a newbie to help her on her journey?
Have Patience. It its a lengthy process of learning how to care for your new hair and to love your true self. I know it seems like your hair isn't growing. Its seem that the tangles are never ending. Its seems like the styles you try just don't work out. But it will get better, and when it does, you're going to love all the possibilities.

-What do you do to your hair at night?
I have a funky haircut, so the sides and back are usually slicked down and the top is out. At night, I reapply KCCC to my the back and sides (only if needed) then sleep in a silk scarf. It the morning I reactivate the top coils with water.

-What's the best thing about being naturally glamorous?!
I am proud that I represent Black beauty in its natural state. Every kink, coil and nap remind me (and everyone else) of my African heritage. Most of all, I love the versatility that comes with chemical free 4a hair. It has character and a personality that always keeps people guessing. I can wear Afro puffs, defined ringlets, braids, twists and/or a press & curl all in the same week. How cool is that?

I've said it before, and I'll say it again:

To get the smoothest Twist-n-Curl or wash-n-go (or any set for that matter), style the hair while it's dripping wet and loaded with your conditioner of choice. As you know, mine is DevaCare One Condition. I gently wring my hair prior to stepping out of the shower, but that's only so I don't create a puddle of death and electrocute myself- I keep my space heater running while I'm in the shower.

There are several benefits:

1. The hair stays slippery, and thus easier to manipulate. Therefore, you lose less hair.
2. The results are frizz-free and very smooth.
3. You use less products.

Later Gators,
Nik

He is here...













I was there...January 20, 2009.


As I sit here typing, my feet and hands are still frozen, legs cold and stiff, and believe it or not, I'm too tired to hit the clubs!

Two days ago, I decided that if I was going to have a chance of actually seeing Obama with my own eyes, I needed to skip the Mall and go straight to the Parade site. Even ticketed Innagural attendees were too far back to see anything but the screen.

We woke up this morning at 4:30am, got to the Metro by 5:30am, hit the streets at 6:30 a.m., and found us a choice spot on Pennsylvania Ave for the Inaugural Parade by 10:00 a.m.! We managed to post up right in front of the barricade at Pennsylvania and 10th...no one in front of us to block the view! After being exposed to outrageously cold and windy weather for nearly 10 hours, we were tired, cranky, and down right miserable. But, when I saw Obama and Michelle in full stride...GLOWING...I was overcome with emotion. They were within 25 feet of us, and I was so awestruck, that I was physically incapable of taking a single picture! Luckily, my husband captured a quick video clip and a couple of pics. All in all, today was most certainly worth it! Very overwhelming. I feel truly blessed to have witnessed this historical event. Oh, and by the way, pictures don't do Obama or Michelle any justice...they are truly a fly, FLY couple.















Metro Escalators...jam packed...took us an hour to get from the train to the street




























Security check-point...took us upwards of 3 hours to get through the line (lots of pushing, shoving and angry folks)















Trying to stay warm.