Curly Nikki | Natural Hair Styles and Curly Hair Care

CN: Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
D: I transitioned for 10 months and I would definitely consider that long term. It got to the point that my new growth was actually eating away at the super stringy permed ends. By 10 months, I had no choice but to chop it off!

CN: When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
D: I BC'd on the first Saturday in April of 2009. Initially, I was in a complete state of shock and I immediately began to wonder how I was going to face my co-workers on Monday morning with my new hair status:) I was terrified. At the same time, I was super proud of myself for having the courage to make this change and I felt the freedom that many naturals speak about.

CN: What was your transition routine?
D: I didn't really have a transition routine. I actually took pretty poor care of my hair at the time and it began to break off tremendously around month 7. In the beginning, due to lack of knowledge, I was flat ironing my hair almost daily. During the later months, I began wearing braids, seneglese twist, and kinky twist to buy time as I prepared to BC.

CN: What was your staple hair style during the transition?
D: flat ironing, braids

CN: Why did you choose to go natural?
D: I always liked big hair, and I loved the natural hair of Erika Badu, Lauren Hill, and Kelis. I was also inspired by various people I would see on the street rocking their natural hair. Furthermore, I knew that the constant perming would eventually damage my hair. I really just wanted to get to know the REAL me. I think I'm on my way!

CurlyNikki readers, meet Shaka...the big haired DIVA!

CN: Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
S: I was both. I began transitioning in 2005 & '06 but kept texturizing and my hair was breaking really badly. So in August of 2007, I was sitting at work one day & I was like "eff this" I'm going to lunch.. I went to the barbershop & cut all my hair off! I got a mohawk...been natural ever since.

CN: When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
S: I bc'ed in August of 2007. The summer of 2007 was very emotional for me & I think I took it out on my hair by going to the barbershop, lol.. When I was at work, I loved it! When I got home later that evening I hated it!! I grew to love the style! It was a drastic change for me. I loved my natural hair & the plans I had for it, so I stayed strong & believed in what I did. I can't say the same for others lol!
CN: What was your transition routine (products included)?
S: I didn't have the knowledge as I do now re: transitioning. Thank God for NC.com! Those ladies (including you) were/are God sends! I didn't mess with my hair too much during transition... mainly wash & sets.
CN: What was your staple hair style during the transition?
S: My staple transition style was wash and sets, and blow outs... nothing else.

CN: How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
S: I used castor oil & coconut oil at the growth line & I didn't manipulate my hair too much. Patience is definitely key during transition & with natural hair PERIOD..
CN: Why did you choose to go natural?
S: I chose to go natural because of selfish reasons at first... I had a really short haircut in 2001 a la' Nia Long short & I noticed when I washed it how beautiful it would look while wet. Fast forward years later, and I wanted my hair to look like Tracee Ellis Ross' & Kelis' hair! I needed that crazy BIG hair! I was like, 'that's me'! So I stopped perming slowly but surely. Now that my hair is growing out, not down (it's crazy big! I still LOVE the attention & stares my hair gets (I guess it's the Gemini in me). The random questions people ask, the "where can I purchase the wig you're wearing?" or the "guurrrll what kinda S curl is that?" or the " I'm a new transitioner please help because your hair is GORGEOUS!" I LOVE em' all!! Now that I've gained the knowledge by visiting some of the natural sites & doing research my hair is healthy as ever & thick as can be! I LOVE MY HAIR & WOULDN'T CHANGE IT FOR THE WORLD!!!

Yet another excellent article (submitted by Cheyenne, thanks!).

Excellent read...especially the comments. Let me know what you think!

Check out this article on NYTimes.com. Big thanks to Ashley for the heads up!

"When it comes to straightening hair or letting it be natural, the choice still pushes deep emotional buttons for many African-American women. Others ask, why can't hair just be hair? Nine black women discuss their hairstyles and the attitudes surrounding their hair."

Listen, and weigh in!

Later Gators,
Nik

Product Description: The Original Mane 'n Tail Conditioner is an exclusive highly concentrated formula with unique actions that helps to maintain and achieve a longer, healthier looking mane and tail.

• Nourishes and conditions hair and skin to aid healthy hair growth leaving a lustrous, silky look
• Conditions and strengthens, preventing breakage of hair
• Moisturizes to help eliminate itching and scaling caused by common external irritants
• Protects against damage from sun and wind
• Keeps hair tangle free, soft and manageable for grooming and braiding.

Ingredients:Water , Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate , Distearyldimonium Chloride , Stearyl Alcohol , Emulsifying Wax NF , Cetyl Alcohol , Coconut Oil , Glycerin , Sodium Chloride , Vegetable Oil , Fragrance , Hydrolyzed Protein , Lanolin , Phenoxyethanol , Methylparaben , Propylparaben , FD&C Yellow #5

My Experience: Right...so I was at Sally's picking up some gloves to do a henna treatment, when my PJ got the best of me. After dropping the gloves in my basket, I scanned the aisles for a new conditioner to try. Nearly every one I picked up had cones, protein, mineral oil or all three--atrocious. I was truly frustrated. I finally happened upon Mane 'N Tail on the bottom shelf in the back corner of the store. I've heard of it before, and have even seen the bottle, but never picked it up. After reading the ingredients, I took the plunge, and used it to detangle that evening prior to applying henna.
It has a pleasant, clean fragrance, and went on very smooth. It's consistency and color is similar to Generic Value Paul Mitchell the Detangler (Sally's), and at first glance, appeared very promising! I let it sit while I showered, and quickly came to the realization that it was a BUST! I couldn't get my fingers through my hair--it felt even more tangled, and incredibly hard. I rinsed it out, and loaded up with my faithful Herbal Essence :) The M&T was lacking my favorite detangling agent Behentrimonium Methosulfate and contained a bit of protein...I should've known better!

Bottom Line: Never again. I returned that mess yeterday and bought some lip gloss :)

This week: surfactants.

A surfactant—sometimes referred to as a detergent—is a substance that, when dissolved in water, gives a product the ability to remove dirt from surfaces such as the human skin, textiles, and other solids. It is what is responsible for all the suds and bubbles in your shampoo.

A lot has been written in recent years about the "sulfates," which belong to the class of surfactants known as "anionic." Many curly hair experts, myself included, advise avoiding shampoos that contain a sulfate surfactant for two reasons: 1) we consider them to be extremely damaging to curly hair because they strip it of its natural moisture, making it frizzy and unmanageable and, 2) more than a few studies have shown that long-term sulfate use can lead to damaged hair follicles, hair loss and hair breakage.

Advocates of shampooing insist that by not using sulfate surfactant-based shampoo to cleanse the scalp and hair, individuals will start to experience scalp issues and eventual hair loss. These shampoos, they argue, are the only way to ensure the hair and scalp are as clean as they need to be in order to maintain proper hair health.

However, it is NOT the sulfates in shampoo that keep your scalp and follicles clean—movement and agitation are what do the cleansing. Think of a washing machine: that agitator in the middle that swishes your clothes back and forth is there for a reason. Without it, your laundry detergent would be fairly ineffective, no matter how many mountain fresh chemicals are loaded in there.

If you use a non-sulfate based or conditioner cleanser or shampoo with an alternate surfactant once a week and give yourself a really good, brisk scalp massage while cleansing—using your fingertips and rubbing your scalp with a firm, energetic circular motion—you are massaging the sebum, dirt and debris out of your hair follicles while stimulating your sebaceous glands to maintain their proper function.

A good, gentle shampoo acts as an agent to carry that oil and debris away without damaging and drying out your hair shaft. That's the real purpose of a cleanser, not harsh detergents that strip your hair of the moisture and essential oils that keep it healthy.

If, however, you use a non-sulfate or conditioner cleanser or shampoo with an alternate surfactant once a week and you squirt a bit on your scalp and kind of halfheartedly move it around, then rinse without really doing any kind of work, you aren't cleansing your scalp correctly and you may, in fact, start having problems. But it doesn't have anything to do with the fact that you are not using shampoo. I've seen clients who use regular shampoo and their scalp is full of dry flakes and scales because they don't cleanse their scalp properly.

I personally believe much of the “you MUST use shampoo” screaming is an effort to drive more product sales within the beauty industry. Quite frankly, however, if you are doing a weekly non-sulfate cleansing with some serious scalp massage and really focusing on getting your scalp clean, you are doing all the right things and you should never have any issues with clogged or damaged hair follicles (at least not because of your cleansing routine).

Next week: silicones


For more of Tiffany the 'Curl Whisperer' click HERE.

S: I've been natural before, and I loved it. I think it's just me, uncomplicated no additives. I'm just not a relaxer girl, when I had a relaxer I was the queen of wash and sets and I spent so much time on my hair, once I became natural in 2003 , I realized how beautiful it was and just couldn't go back for too long. My biggest problem is I would revert back to perms whenever I was stressed out in relationships or just simply felt down. I'm learning not to use my hair as an emotional outlet.

Hola Chicas!

So...I'm running late today, because my hair is acting up! I was 'supposed' to re-style last night, but I didn't feel like it, and had to deal with the consequences this morning. I slept with it in a high pony, and when I pulled it down today, it was flat and frizzy on one side, but still full in the back. I knew that in order to rock it without a hat or scarf, I had to pull it back somehow.

I tried a simple headband, but wasn't feeling it. I also tried a high pony...wasn't feeling it. I tried a puff...wasn't feeling it. Finally, I decided to pull it all over to one side:

Kinda cute...totally 80's...maybe for the club...not for the staff meeting I'm attending today ;~) I found out from a colleague recently that I'm known as 'that girl with the funky clothes and cool hair', lol. Definitely taken as a compliment, but I feel that the faux hawk might attract even more attention!

I love the look of the half-up/half-down style, but hate how tight the claw clip or ponytail holder pulls the top half. I decided to do a faux half-up/half-down, by securing the top half with 6 bobby pins. The end result is fuller! Now, only the full, non-frizzy portions of my hair are exposed :)

1. Hey Nik-

Ummm Yeah, how do you sleep with all those curlers in your hair??!!! I did a Twist N Curl once, and while I favored the results, the curlers gave me a headache in the morning!! Please dish how you keep your head from hurting but your curls ever-so-tight!

LOL! It can definitely be uncomfortable at times, but I'm a 'beauty hurts' person, so I deal with it. I usually make sure to roll the magnetic or rod rollers to my chin, or just below. That way, when I lay down on my side, I can flip the twists and rollers over the pillow so that I lay flat and comfortably. During the night, if any of the clips (at the roots) begin to hurt or dig into my scalp, I yank them out and throw them on the floor!

2. Hello Nikki,

Whenever I do a Twist-n-Curl, the twists look great, but they look so dry. I am using the exact same products you use (Pantene R & N for the deep treatment, Devacare One & Jessicurl WDT to set the twists.) Is there something else I am missing to make it look shiny (like yours! :)

Maybe she's born with it...maybe it's HENNA! My hair is naturally sheeny, and the henna has definitely enhanced this (along with rich conditioners). You're already using moisture rich products, so you've got that covered, but sometimes, less is more. Every now and then, when I'm heavy handed with products, I get a dull cast over my hair. Maybe your hair would fair better if you use DevaCare One (quarter size amount for each half), and simply seal the ends with Shea? See how that treats you and report back!

Also, if henna's color scares you, check into Cassia--you'll get the shine without the red.

3. When I comb through my wet hair it is shoulder length but, when it dries, it shrinks to about ear lobe length. What can I do/use to prevent some shrinkage?

Shrinkage comes with the territory of natural hair. Henna can help reduce shrinkage for short periods of time, but this isn't necessarily the case for every curly. If you're currently Wash & Going, try twisting, roller-setting, TnC'ing, or braiding your wet hair. Let it air dry completely, take it down, and fluff. Wet setting greatly reduces shrinkage.

I used to stretch my roots on occassion to achieve a fuller, longer look. This Hair Tip definitely works, but please use it sparingly. A blow fryer should not become a staple of your arsenal!

After my Wash & Go was fully dry (this is very important), I'd grab chunks of hair and blast the roots (with warm air) with a diffuser or air concentrator attachment. See step 8 of this Miss Jessie's Tutorial for a visual. I'd do this until most of the hair was stretched...taking about 5 minutes total. The end result was a bigger, fluffier curly fro that would last until humidity hit it, or it got wet :D

Recently, I discovered that pulling your freshly set and dried hair up into a loose pony overnight, yields the same results as the blow dryer trick above...with much less stress and damage of course! This is my new bedtime routine...I either leave it out, or pull it into a high pony.

4. How do you moisturize your hair without ruining your style?

This is a toughy, and I must admit that there are days that I choose beauty over moisture, lol. Not good. When I opt for bigger curls (magnetic rollers), it's much easier to apply Shea butter or Deva Set it Free to the ends. But, when I want a shorter, fuller curly bob (rod rollers), I never want to disturb the litte curls, so I usually leave them alone :( The key is to start with properly moisturized hair. Deep treat/condition with a moisturizing conditioner, rinse, and apply your rich leave-in, and be sure to seal the ends. Those steps are crucial, and make moistruzing on day 2, 3, or 4 less important.
When I choose to moisturize my ends, I use a product that clumps the curls (shea or Deva), rather than one that would weigh it down or frizz it out (water based moisturizer or oil based moisturizer).

5. Do you tell us ALL your hair secrets?

Of course! Ya'll know about every favorite product, every failed product, every successful styling attempt, every botched styling attempt... even my sex/bedtime routine (which has changed by the way--no more bonnet!!!). I dish all because it's therapeutic for me, and benefits you gorgeous chicas!

Later Gators,
Nik

Keneesha Hudson’s Winter Tips for Keeping Curly Hair Happy & Healthy!!

CEO of Urbanbella, the Curly, Kinky, & Wavy Hair Salon and Apothecary

Hydrate

As the weather starts to cool down curly hair (already prone to dryness) gets even drier due to the crisper hair. Counteract this by increasing hydration hair therapy! Pump up moisture by giving your hair deep treatments more frequently than you normally do. Extremely dry textures can even do daily treatments. It’s also not a bad idea to head to the salon for a professional steam hydration therapy. For an at-home recession friendly (but still spa-worthy) experience, towel wrap your deeply conditioned tresses for 20 minutes after at least every other shampoo before rinsing.

Moisture Rich Products Favorites:

Ouidad 12 minute Deep Treatment
Phytokarite
Miss Jessie's Rapid Recovery

Update Your Look

Everyone loves to rock a new look as the season changes. Try a new play on color by leaning toward the cinnamon and bronze hues. Have 2 to 3 tones foiled in at the salon blending both highlights and low lights for a more natural look. Don’t be afraid to throw a splash or two of honey blonde to pick-up the beautiful colors of the fall season!

Longer Lasting Styles

Cooler weather means that us ladies rockin' the curls, kinks and waves like to spend less time washing our hair and having to let it air dry. Some of the best ways to avoid this is to "preserve" your style at night and refresh your look each morning. For loose waves, twist hair in large (cigar size) or larger plaits/braids at night. For tighter curls and kinks use clips or bobby pins to secure hair close to the head or twist at night. Remove clips in the morning and fluff hair at the roots. Be sure to use a firm styling gel or styling cream on wash day to help preserve your look. Is your hair prone to frizzies and fly-aways? For dry, loose curls spray a light refresher spay that contains a balance of oil and water and twirl curls with finger to pull frizz together for a defined curl. Tighter curls and kinks need a heavier refresher blend of water and glycerin product to hydrate the ends and then simply finger comb curls to de-frizz.

Product Favorites for Refreshing Curls:

Kinky Curly Spiral Spritz - Create Hydration with minimum hold
DevaCurl Set It Free
Jane Carter Solution Revitalizing Leave-In Spray
CURLS Quenched Curls- Use daily or alone as a second day curl refresher

Scalp

The cool crispy winter air is a trigger for scalp problems for those who typically never have to worry about scalp issues and it is torture season for the rest of us who battle with it all year long! Before the temperature dips from low to lower, start a regimen of regular scalp treatments. Treatments like these balance out the scalp flora preventing fungus and also provide excellent hydration. Use a good blend of essential oils such as Phytopolliene or Jane Carter Solution Scalp Renew prior to shampoo and your seasonal dry scalp with be a thing of the past. For the flaky, itchy dry scalp, pump up the treatment by using Phytosquame or Jane Carter Solution Scalp Nourishing Serum. These potions exfoliate the scalp and eliminate flakes associated with eczema, psoriasis, and cradle cap, all conditions aggravated by the dry fall and winter air.

Deanna writes:

"What does being natural mean to you? Does it mean you NEVER straighten/flat iron your hair? Does dyeing your hair make you non-natural?"

I'm in the 'to each his own' camp--as long as it works for you, and it's healthy, rock it!
Who are we to judge...But, can we say...SLIPPERY SLOPE!

I agree that relaxed/texlaxed hair is not natural. But as I've said before, I don't believe that heat styling, wet setting, or hair dye makes someone any less natural. There's nothing wrong with a little enhancing!

Weigh in...how do you define natural?

This gorgeous natural tells us of her journey to healthier hair:


CN: Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
NG: I was a long term transitioner. My last relaxer was in August of 2008. I transitioned for about 11 months.

CN: When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
NG: I BC'd on the 3rd of July of 2009. For months I'd stand in front of a mirror and pull my hair in all kinds of different directions, trying to figure out what it would look like short. I figured it was a holiday weekend, a great time to return to work with a different look. I'm glad I waited as long as I did though even though the transition journey was tough! I loved it as soon as I cut it! I knew I could be creative with it, I could be different. No one at work wears their hair like I do. Most importantly, I felt the pressure gone to grow my hair fast and grow it long. I could just enjoy my texture without worrying about where on my anatomy my hair fell. This was an unexpected side-effect that I'm grateful for.CN: What was your transition routine (products included)?
NG: I tried absolutely EVERYTHING haha. I started out cowashing...a lot...I loved washing and conditioning my hair. I'm weird that way but it's therapeutic. I'd announce it to my friends proudly that I had to go home and condition my hair lol. They thought I was weird. I started out with Tressemme, the smooth and silky lines and the ones for curls and moisture. I couldn't wait to go through bottles of conditioner so I could get a new one to try. I tried all kinds of products: Carol's Daughter, KCCC + KCKT, Redken, Herbal Essences, Ayurvedic products (Henna, Vatika oil, Shikakai etc), Cantu etc. I finally realized that my hair LOVES Castor oil. Not Jamaican black, just regular ol' castor oil.
Now that I'm done transitioning, I've found my staples! Oyin handmade Juices and Berries + Qhemet Biologics Amla and Olive heavy cream. This is an amazing combination for me, for some reason they work so well together, keeping my hair soft and moisturized and helping it absorb and retain moisture! After I condition my hair (and shampoo if needed, once every two weeks or a month), I'll let it dry about 90% and then apply J&B + A&O HC to sections and twist them up for the night. In the morning I take them down, put on a headband and fluff into a puff! CN: What was your staple hair style during the transition?
NG: I went through several phases as my natural hair grew out: My style in the beginning was just to hold my hair up with a jaw clip and let it air dry. I would use Cantu shea leave-in and go. My hair must have looked dreadful! As my new growth became more prominent, I would braid it into two cornrows and try to keep that for a week. Finally, toward the end of my transition, I would put a hair band on, braid the ends and tuck in the braid to look like a bob. I would flat iron only once or twice a month for special occasions. I tried twistouts every now and then.
CN: Why did you choose to go natural?
NG: I was tired of relaxer damage. I knew it had to be possible to grow long healthy hair, and I was doing something wrong. Now, lots of ladies out there have long, healthy relaxed hair, maybe I just wasn't smart enough, but I knew it wasn't working for me. Of course, the story wouldn't be complete without giving credit to the ladies on all the hair boards I lurk :-D They were my inspiration, all those lovely heads of beautiful natural hair in all lengths and textures. Plus, once my natural hair grew out a bit, I was pleasantly surprised by my texture. I'd always thought it was tougher and coarser than it really is. Now I know that it just wasn't well moisturized.

Hola Chicas,

Leave your curly hair styling questions (Twist-n-Curl, Knot-Out, Bunning, etc.) below in the comments section. I'll choose two to answer each day, for the rest of the week!

Later Gators,
Nik

Ms. BonitaBrittany is sharing her long-term transition story in hopes that it will inspire folks that are on the fence about going natural, as well as ladies who are currently transitioning.

CN: Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
BB: I am a long term transitioner. My last relaxer was for thanksgiving of 2008, so I’ve gone 9 months strong! I decided to do the long transition (at least a year) because I have NEVER had hair shorter than my chin and I just thought chopping everything off would be too much of a shock for me.

CN: When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
BB: I have not big chopped yet, but I stalk my baby curls everyday and I have snipped at least 2 chunks of hair to see my curls free of the relaxed ends. LOL.

CN: What was your transition routine (products included)?
BB: I absolutely love the freedom of co-waching 2 times per week. My favorites are Herbal Essence Hello Hydration and Totally Twisted. I also deep condition once per month with Aubrey Organics Honey Suckle Rose mixed with Shea butter and a bit of honey. I often use ‘ Naked Naturals: Shea Butter & Avocado Smoothing Conditioner’ or ‘Smooth as Silk Extreme Protien Hair Infusion’ by Giovanni for hair treatment after I co-wash.
I use coconut oil with a little Giovanni Leave-In conditioner on my edges and hair when I want it to lay down more. I also use kinky-curly knot today when I need to get my curl pattern going. I also SWEAR by Kinky-Curly’s Transtioners Tonic. It helps keep the demarcation line strong and makes your new growth softer and more manageable as you work with both textures.
I sometimes go swimming, and I’ve found that using Suave’s 99cent Coconut conditioner before getting your hair full of chlorine makes a massive difference in how dry your hair gets. Pre-conditioning my hair is one of the best tips I can give for those who swim! I just saturate my hair with conditioner, put it in ponytail, and swim!

CN: What was your staple hair style during the transition?
BB: After my 3rd month of transitioning, I employed a full head of weave to skip months 4-7 when I felt my determination wavering. That really helped me. Now I know if I chop my hair tomorrow (which I won’t—I’m gonna do a full year like I promised myself! LOL!) I will have enough curls to be happy.
I usually wear my transition hair in a big chinon bun with a Grecian head band to the front. I hump my hair in the back alot since my naps make for great puff to give my hair extra volume! Another look I like is a hump in the front, leading into a low French-braided ponytail! Sometimes, I bantu knot my hair or set it on rollers for a beautiful curly fro. I have only flat ironed my hair 2 times in the past nine months of transitioning.

CN: How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
BB: I mist my hair with water, then rub in a little coconut oil or shea butter mixed with Giovanni Leave in conditioner. Also, I love the Transitioners Tonic by Kinky-curly. That is great for the new growth line.

CN: Why did you choose to go natural?
BB: My sister was my catalyst for change. She had to cut almost all of her hair off after a freak weave removal accident! She showed me some pictures of other women on your site and other natural sites and how they discovered their curls and how healthy natural hair was. That same night I saw the pics --I swore off perms!
I consider myself a fashionista and a trend-setter, so I knew I could rock whatever hair. In the past, I had always had nice hair, but I thought to myself “If my hair was kinda fly with a perm, think how much better it would be HEALTHY and NATuRAL!!” I was right! No one believed I’d follow thorough since I’ve been getting relaxers since I was 13. But I knew I could do it and I now make it my mission to turn other fashionista’s on to the beauty of natural hair.

Hola Chicas,

Bekka, one of my favorite curly girls (and field reporter, lol) sent me a link to Coach Lynn's video on the dangers of trying to fit in at work. Although it's not about natural hair, it is most certainly relevant!




Weigh in...

Hola Chicas!

So we all know that Tyra will be revealing her 'natural' hair next season--"...for the season 5 premiere, I will be doing just that - no fake hair, I'm rocking my REAL hair. This will all be going down on September 8, 2009, which we're declaring National Real Hair Day!"

From previous threads (and the previous hair show), we have expressed our opinion on what the show shouldn't be about. So now, dish on what you'd like to see on the upcoming show!

Later Gators,
Nik

p.s. I'm announcing a Giveaway today...stay tuned :D

It's that time again ladies!! Trish, the beautiful curly in the picture above (rocking the lensless spectacles, lol) has planned a night to remember :D Check out the details below and RSVP in the comments section. Also, please be sure to bring a product or two, or three to swap!

Gina has written a part II to My Love Affair and wanted to share. Check her out!


"How I wish I could pigeon-hole myself and neatly fix a label on! But self-knowledge comes too late! By the time I've known myself I am no longer what I was."

I had a revelation this weekend that had been brewing just under the surface of my awareness for awhile. I have finally wrapped my mind around it. Now that my hair is completely relaxer-free, it feels as if I've gone through a second transition. The first transition was about deciding to grow out my relaxer. Since I wore my hair straight through my entire transition, most people didn't know that I was going through such a change. There was no declaration to the world. I'm not sure that even I knew what a major change was happening or how much it would affect me.

Once the straight ends were gone, a hot and humid day came along that made it impossible for me to even consider putting heat anywhere near my head. And just like that, I went from one extreme to the next overnight.
Since that first wash and go, I think I've only straightened my hair a couple of times. Who knew I'd fall so in love with the "new growth" that I'd flirted with for so long???

Despite my love affair.....I'm still adjusting to people's perceptions, comments and questions about my natural hair. I had to have professional pictures taken for work, and I opted to straighten my hair for the pictures. This is the only time all summer that I've done so. In hindsight, I wish I hadn't straightened it. Not that there is anything wrong with straight hair, because I still like my hair straight occasionally. However, it does bother me that my sole reason for straightening was that I thought it would look more professional. Hmph. I guess I've continued to step further away from the box since then. I am so tired of the damn box.

Life is just full of transitions I guess. I find myself looking for more areas in my life where I've been living within the confines of what I've been conditioned to think, believe and do. I want my decisions to feel right FOR ME in my heart and soul. So, along with something as cursory as changing my hair philosophy, I'm truly enhancing my philosophy on life. Leaving the familiar is scary and exciting. I'm just flowing with it...shedding old things and embracing the new. All the while, I'm people-watching, dancing, and smelling the flowers so I can remember the look and feel of every moment.

"Regardless of what you've been told, you can and do change with every new experience. Each experience enhances your capabilities by giving you something new to draw upon. Every new capability you discover and develop leads to a new opportunity. Move toward your wildest dream, take the labels off your mind and step boldly into your greatness."

With every new step I create a new me :)
For more of Gina, check out her BLOG.

The 'Curl Whisperer' is back after a summer hiatus to get some business in order. I missed you, ladies!

Continuing our discussion on product ingredients: this week's article will be on protein and its importance in curly hair care. This information becomes critical when it comes to understanding how to choose products best suited for your particular hair type.

Hair itself is actually a nonliving fiber made from a protein called keratin. Keratin, in turn, is made up of long chains of amino acids created from what are known as the COHNS elements: carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur. These chains are what form the structure of the hair strand and contribute to its overall strength.

Hair with a fine texture, therefore, does not have the same protein support and structure as does hair with a more substantial texture. Because fine hair is so fragile, it needs the additional support and reinforced structure provided by protein-based products.

Coarse hair, on the other hand, naturally manufactures an overabundance of protein within itself. Since coarse hair carries an excessive protein structure, putting protein-based products on hair that is already protein-heavy will increase the hair structure to the point the hair strand will become just like a broom straw: hard, difficult if not impossible to bend, and very dry. Products that are protein-based should be avoided by those with coarse hair.

Medium-textured hair is somewhere in the middle and is what we consider “normal” hair, meaning it has a mid-range protein content and can generally support products with a wide range of ingredients, as long as care is taken to keep a good balance.

Protein also plays in important role in helping to repair/reconstruct the hair shaft after a chemical service such as lightening, or can assist in strengthening hair that has been over-processed.

As with any product ingredient, it is possible to have too much of a good thing, however! If you are a frequent protein user and your hair starts to feel dry or brittle, you may be suffering from possible protein overload. Switching to a more emollient-based conditioner for a while may be just what you need to get your hair back into balance.

Next week: Surfactants


Other articles on Protein:
Protein Sensitivity Revisited
Hair Tip of the Day

For more of Tiffany the 'Curl Whisperer' click HERE.

Hola Chicas!

I did a Twist-n-Curl with lots of DevaCare One and a touch of Oyin Define and Shine on the ends. Good result but since I wasn't careful about product distribution, I'm a bit frizzy :~)

Theoretically, to prevent excess hair loss and crazy tangles, I should re-style tonight. But alas...I'm too lazy! I'll do it tomorrow or Friday...why do today what I can put off until tomorrow?!

Later Gators,
Nik

Product Description: It takes two to tousle—so i tousle two ways! i give damp hair a smooth start for a soft, messy-hair look. then put me to work on dry, styled hair to calm anxious fly-aways and touch up tousles throughout the day. and if you really want to tousle it up, first get a good base with my mousse or spray gel.

Ingredients:WATER/EAU, DIMETHICONE, SORBITOL, AMINOMETHYL PROPANOL, CARBOMER, VA/CROTONATES COPOLYMER, FRAGRANCE/PARFUM, BENZYL ALCOHOL, PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL, DMDM HYDANTOIN.

My Experience: Ummmm....yeahhhh.....not feeling it. I honestly can't even give it a fair review because it never dried, lol! I had a moment of PJism while grocery shopping the other day, and wandered over to the beauty section. I've never seen this line in stores so I was naturally curious ;~) After reading the description, I concluded that it was a worth a shot. I wasn't impressed by the ingredient list, but HE products usually treat me nicely.
After co-washing, detangling, rinsing, and applying DevaCare One as a leave-in, I stepped out of the shower and divided my hair into four. I applied a dime sized amount of the finishing cream to the back left section and it immediately curdled...ewwww! It did not play nice with the DevaCare. I carefully rinsed that section out, which took forever (it was ridiculously gritty and sticky), and applied Matrix Biolage Balm to the section before trying the finishing cream for a second time. It curdled again! I rinsed another time, and tried the finishing cream alone. It defined my wavy curls nicely, but felt gunky and sticky. I gave up, and rinsed the mess out for good.
It smelled great like all HE products, and the consistency was thick like a conditioner but somewhat sticky like a gel. I could actually dig the consistency, but the curdling...not a good look.

Bottom Line: Not for me. If I was a betting woman, I'd guess that my hair would've dried stiff and dull. This is another product that will sit under my sink collecting dust.

Anyone tried it and liked it?!

Question 1: Where. do. i. begin?! You mentioned that you use the jamila brand of henna. Is there anything you mix with yours, or should the packaged product be used just as is. I'm super dumb with henna, is there mixing involved or o you just dump it on. Also, what precautions need to be taken to prevent the loosening of curls. thank you for this Nikki.

I use Jamila henna from Mehandi.com. I mix my henna (200g, or 2 boxes) with green tea, and a bit of honey. Check out my video for further detail. I dump the powder in first, and slowly mix in the warm (not boiling) tea...too much liquid will leave you with a leaky, runny mess. You want the end result to resemble mashed potatoes. Adding honey gives it a slicker consistency which aids in application and rinsing. Plus, it's a humectant and should attract a bit of moisture.

It seems that the folks most likely to experience the subtle and temporary loosening have wavy or S shaped), fine strands, versus cork screw (or O shaped), coarse strands. At least this is what I've observed on the hair boards as well as hennaforhair.com. Some even notice that it makes their hair curlier and more defined! To prevent the loosening, you should (1) Henna less often, and/or (2) add amla to the mix. Henna fattens up the strands (making fine strands coarser) which adds extra weight. This is why the curl doesn't change as much as it just shrinks less for a few weeks. Adding 1/4 amla in your henna mix can be used instead of any other acidic ingredient (e.g. tea, acv, lemon juice) and will help preserve curl. Some people do amla only treatments as well, which can be drying, so don't forget to deep treat!!! Although amla gives hair body and bounce, Catherine of hennaforhair.com recommends it for the body as well!



Question 2: I think Henna makes my hair dry. Why is that? What can I use to keep my hair feeling moisturized?

To avoid the dryness and reveal stronger, fuller, healthier hair:

1. Avoid Harsh Acids--Lemon juice or ACV should be replaced with tea or a little amla. Harsher acids will dry your hair out like none other. Skip the headache and opt for green or chamomile tea.
   
2. Rinse Well--Remnants of henna dust left on the hair will weigh your hair down, and make it feel dry and stiff. To prevent this, rinse very well with lots of moisturizing slippery conditioner.
3. Deep Condition--This adds much needed moisture back into your strands. Henna (like other mud treatments) can be very taxing if not done properly. A moisturizing deep conditioner will nourish and prevent any dryness before it could rear it's ugly head!
   
4. Shampoo Less--Avoid shampoos with harsh sulfates in them, opt for milder formulas and shampoo bars. Also, shampooing daily or even every few days is unnecessary unless you're styling with lard, lol. I shampoo once or twice a month with great results! My hair stays moisturized and bouncy :)
   

Question 3: Does Indigo have the same conditioning benefits that henna has?

From the Henna ebook:

"Indigo is a plant that has a blue dye molecule. Indigo is what dyes your jeans dark blue. You can dye your hair and cover gray without chemicals... If you use just henna over white hair, the color is coppery red. If you use just indigo, the color is blue."

Indigo doesn't hurt your hair, but it doesn't help it either. It's not like henna or cassia, and won't add volume, shine, or strength. It is used to dye the hair, and should be used in conjunction with henna. Cassia and amla are your other options. Cassia made my hair sleeker and shinier, while amla made it dry and stiff. Every body's head is different! Experiment...but educate yourself first :D

Later Gators,
Nik

How long does mixed henna last? Can I do anything to save mixed henna for my next application?

Henna leftovers should be covered and stored in the freezer. Frozen henna can last upwards of 4-5 months, and when thawed, the dye is much stronger. I've read that you should put your leftover henna in a ziploc bag, spread it out real thin and let it freeze solid laying flat-- you can actually just break off whatever you need, or even thaw the whole thing in half the time (compared to thawing out a hunk of it in a Tupperware container).

Can I use your henna recipe for cassia or is there a better recipe?

Since you're not worried about dye release or uptake, you can unleash that inner mixtress, and go nuts! I've added oils (olive or coconut), honey, and even conditioner to my Cassia powder with great results! I use plain old filtered water to mix it. Cassia is a great alternative for you ladies that want to avoid the color and subtle curl loosening that comes with henna. Although the thickening effect is also lacking, Cassia imparts shine, strength, and conditioning that no conditioner can match! The effects are shorter lived though--1-2 weeks top (compared to henna's 3 week effect).

I can't find the post where you discussed this earlier but I was wanting to know what is the product you mix with henna if you don't wan't the red undertones. I have gray hair in the front portion of my hair and the last time I henna'd the gray portion was a bright red and the rest of my hair was a darker brownish/redish tone which didn't look well together. I don't want my hair to be black that's why I haven't bought the indigo. I just want it to be a darker red or dark brown where my gray is. I guess my question is what other product besides indigo can you mix with henna for your hair that will yield darker undertones? Thanks!

You can easily tone down the red and go for brown or black by mixing in other herbs such as amla and/or indigo. For examples of successful mixes check out these links:

Easy Black
Easy Brown

The main difference between the two is that for black you do a two step--henna then indigo. For the brown, you will mix the indigo right into the henna. I would do a harvest (with shed hair) or patch test in an inconspicuous place in the back of your head to be sure that you can live with whatever color it yields. You'll definitely have to play around with it for a while until you tap into the perfect combo! Also remember that henna treatments take 3-4 days to fully oxidize (or darken), so you won't see your 'final' color result immediately.

Tune in for more henna tips tomorrow!

Later Gators,
Nik

Hola Chicas!

Word on the street is that the gorgeous Tyra Banks will be rockin' her natural hair next season!
This is just what the doctor ordered for her viewers (women ages 15-34)...I can't wait to see!

From the US Magazine article:
Tyra Banks is ditching her trademark weaves for the season 5 premiere of her CW talk show, airing Sept. 8. She will reveal her "natural hair."

Click here to get the scoop!

Weigh in ladies, and thank you Maria for the heads up!!!

Later Gators,
Nik

This St. Louis beauty recently big chopped...like last week! Check out her story below:


CN: Were you a long term transitioner, and why?
A: My last real relaxer was around Valentine’s Day (Feb) 2009, then I attempted at another relaxer around Easter (Apr) 2009; however, the relaxer did not take because it was old, so as soon as I washed out the chemical, my hair waved back up. So I guess you can say that I last had chemicals in my hair April 2009. So approximately 4 months of a transition, not as long as I originally planned, that’s for sure. I initially wanted to transition long enough to have some new growth that could go into a ponytail, but me being impatient and wanting to see my natural curls, I couldn’t wait that long. I had hoped for the end of the year, but my birthday month had sounded a little better.

CN: When did you BC? What was your initial reaction?
A: I BC’d August 13th, 2009 at 1:30 PM. Which was 4 days ago, lol and 5 days before my 26th birthday. My initial reaction to my hair was that I looked like a little boy and that I didn’t like it. But when he put some curl foam or setting lotion in it and I saw the curls, I was highly impressed because I did not know I had curly hair like that. I had 4 of my good friends there with me, and they absolutely loved it. They were so supportive and honest, I love my friends. I was nervous and apprehensive, not so much about me cutting my hair off, but because I hadn’t been to a shop in over 4 years. I was not used to giving 100% control of my hair to another person whom I did not know or trust. But Bernard did a good job. I did not know I was that brave to be honest. It’s growing on me though, lol. It is taking my husband a little longer to get used to me being without hair and the drastic decision of cutting it off all of a sudden, but as it grows and he sees my personality coming through my hair, he will learn to love it, as am I.

CN: What was your transition routine?
A: I didn’t really have a set routine, which is sad to say. Once I decided that I was going natural I didn’t do things much differently. After speaking to friends who were natural (Jamie), I found out that straightening my hair was not a good idea because it could ruin the new growth, so I limited that to once a month. I cowashed my hair regularly (like twice a week) and I would do a deep condition whenever I would remember to with the Pantene Pro V Relaxed and Natural Defensive Mask Conditioner. I used products like HEHH, Cantu Shea Butter, Giovanni 50/50 Shampoo, and my number one product was the IC Fantasia gel.

CN: What was your staple hairstyle during the transition?
A: I was a major ponytail person. I would slick it back with my Fantasia gel, and slick down my little baby hairs in the front, put it in a bun, and keep it moving. To spice it up, I always wore cool headbands with flowers and such. Some styles that I did try was the Twist N Curl, which was cool, it just required some extra work and because my hair is so thick it would take forever and literally 2 days to dry. I also frequented the 2 French braids down the side and then I would do a braid out once my braids started looking fuzzy. I work at MAC Cosmetics so any crazy hairstyle is definitely accepted and encouraged lol, so I would rock the braids at work with a cute Native American looking headband. I was pretty boring, as I normally was when I had my relaxed hair. I was a big wrap person then. I didn’t do all those crazy styles that would require me to “sleep cute.” No, not me…

CN: How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
A: I don’t think I did anything special. Like I said, I would cowash twice a week, or once a week and I would leave the HEHH in. So I guess that’s it… I probably should have done something because my hair sheds anyways, and with those two textures I saw a little more shedding and breakage than normal.

CN: Why did you choose to go natural?
A: Well ever since I was young, I knew I had long thick wavy hair, so thick that my hair thickness was the reason my mother started me out in relaxers, that and her best friend was a hair dresser. She just couldn’t maintain the thickness of my hair. When they would try to press it, it would last for a split moment, but because I was an unruly tomboy I would go out and play and come back with an afro again. When I used to go to the beauty shop, they would ask me, “Why don’t you just go natural?” and all I would remember was the struggle my mother went through, so to me it was out of the question. Since moving here to Atlanta in October 2008, natural hair is really embraced among the black community, or all communities for that matter. A few of my natural friends told me to check into it and recommended me to CN website and that opened my eyes to a whole new world. I watched youtube videos, joined forums, and even made a fotki account of my transition (www.fotki.com/fierceladybutler.) I was so excited and had become completely obsessed with natural hair. At the MAC counter, whenever natural women would come up to get makeup, I would ask them millions of questions about their hair and they were so passionate about it and were so confident and beautiful. They had a whole new aura about them. So I decided that I wanted to go forward with it, and honestly I am 1113% glad that I did, I have never looked back for one second. I honestly (and secretly) curse my mother for ever putting the creamy crack in my head, but everything happens for a reason, right? I wanted my hair to be very healthy and I wanted to get to know MY hair again without the chemicals, and I believe this is the best way to do so. Besides, I always loved the texture of my new growth so I always wondered what it would look like if my whole head was filled with nothing but new growth.

Fotki- www.fotki.com/fierceladybutler

Click here to learn how to submit your CurlyNikki Spotlight!

Hola Chicas,

Leave your henna/indigo/cassia/amla questions below in the comments section. I'll choose two to answer each day, for the rest of the week!

Later Gators,
Nik

p.s. The Curl Whisperer is back from her hiatus, and she is taking questions and requests! If you have a question you'd like for her to answer, submit it to nikki@curlynikki.com, with 'The Curl Whisperer' as the subject line.

The beautiful and talented Amanda Diva wears many hats...all of them well! I saw her on VH1's 100 Greatest One Hit Wonders of the 80s, and fell in love with her style, and curly locks. Not too long after that, I caught up with her and asked if she'd like to share some hair care tips with the lovely CurlyNikki.com community. She obliged :~)


CN: We all have a story to tell. Tell us yours...
AD: I've always worn my hair natural but I definitely remember the days of my mom having to TACKLE my hair in order to get a comb through it. I spent many a Saturday with my mom trying all types of sprays, hair lotions, hot oils, blow dryer combs etc. to get my hair more manageable. By high school I gave in to just rocking it curly but it's like the front of my hair is a completely different texture than the back, so I could never slick it back. On a school trip a friend permed just the bang and that was my routine until last year when I grew it out and now I just wear it however. Lol, I've let it go!
*Cholesterol
*Jam <----ERRYBODY KNO BOUT JAM! LOL



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