Curly Nikki | Natural Hair Styles and Curly Hair Care

Hola Chicas,

I'm 6 months preggers today! Time is really moving... it's almost scary.
In random news, during a debilitating DQ Peanut Buster Parfait craving this afternoon, I had the clarity to look up the nutritional info online. O M G. One PBP is 770 calories!!!! Now that is RiGotDamnDiculous... shame on them! So I nixed that idea, and packed it up and headed to the store to purchase some Oreos and skim milk. Still not a healthy snack, but definitely the lesser of two evils.

As promised, I'm laying out the details of my slightly modified routine. It has elicited compliments from friends and strangers alike, and I absolutely love the feel of my hair! Although I'm still doing a Twist-n-Curl, there are two major changes:

• Lighter Products- I'm using Yes to Cucumbers Conditioner to detangle in the shower, and as a moisturizing leave-in afterward. Since it has zero hold, I use a teeny bit of Deva Set it Free (2 squirts per twist) or Aveda's Light Elements Defining Whip (pea sized amount per twist) for staying power. I seal with shea butter on the last 2 inches of hair prior to rolling. The result? Hair that feels naked...product free...fluffy...yet moisturized. It moves! It's a great change from the heaviness of DevaCare One (which weighs my curls down showing more length), and I enjoy the volume it gives me on top. My latest lesson learned is that properly moisturized hair doesn't have to feel product-y or heavy!

• Apply products to damp (not dripping) hair- My inspiration came from waking up to still wet, wet- sets on a regular basis. My hair is a bit thicker now, and I've noticed that even with the ceiling fan, my Twist-n-Curls have not been 100% (or even 80%) dry come morning. Cranking up the bonnet dryer or diffuser really isn't an option... I try to reserve the heat for emergencies. I was recently sent a pair of Hand Dry Hair Gloves to try, and I'm really loving them. After detangling and rinsing clean (hair in 6 twists as always), I gently blot dry each twist until it's just damp. I then apply the YTC and Set it Free to each section prior to twisting. The result? Hair that dries in half the time! I also seem to get more of a consistent curl pattern, and hair that appears to retain the moisture from the conditioner much better! Working with my damp hair used to be such a hassle... keeping it in detangled sections is the key. Also, I'm sure a paper towel or terry towel would work the same.

Besides the two points above, there are several other things I do to ensure good hair days:

• Detangle in sections- When I get in the shower, my hair is loose. I wet it down, apply loads of conditioner, and let it marinate. I then split my hair down the middle, and start with the left side. I section out the back (pinning the rest of the left side up and out of the way) and detangle with my fingers and Ouidad comb under the shower stream. I two strand twist that section and repeat with the section near my ear, and by my face. Repeat with the right side. I end up with three product free, thoroughly detangled, twisted sections on each side-- 6 total. I then get out of the shower, blot, and apply my leave-in/stylers to each, prior to twisting.
  

• Flat twist the roots

• Twist Placement- For looser waves, I find that 11 twists suffice. After making a center part, I place four twists near my face (two on either side of the part), one above each ear, four in the back, and one at the crown.

• Preserving the Style- When showering on in-between days, I pull my hair into a low loose pony with a banana clip or satin scrunchy. I secure the crown with a silk scarf and cover it all with a shower cap. At night, I sleep with it out on my satin pillow case, flipped over the pillow so that I won't lay and drool on it. For my daily walk (outside or indoors), I pull it up or down into a loose pony.
  

• Flexi-Rods for Ends- I'm using these instead of magnetic rollers because they are less taxing on the ends and easier to sleep on. I don't know the inch size, but I use the pink (quite small), or blue ones.
  

• Hair Days- I style twice a week, Monday and Thursday, or Sunday and Wednesday. Going any longer than that, results in a dramaful detangling session.
  

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Current Product Rotation:

• Shampoo- Mehandi Shampoo Bar, or Giovanni Tea Tree
  
• Deep Conditioner- Jessicurl Weekly Deep Treatment or Aubrey Organics Honey Suckle Rose
  
• Conditioners- Depending on how I feel, I use one, or a combo of the following to co-wash, detangle, and leave-in: Herbal Essence's Totally Twisted or Hello Hydration, DevaCare One Condition, Yes to Cucumbers or Yes to Carrots.
• Sealant- Afrikan Republic Unrefined Shea Butter from Butters-n-Bars, or Oyin's Burnt Sugar Pomade.
  
• Henna - Bridal Art Quality Jamila from Mehandi I buy the Jamila in the foil pouch only, not the cellophane. I also purchase henna from Butters-n-Bars.com.

Hair Styles (listed in order of how often it is worn):

• Twist-n-Curl

• Modified Princess Leia Buns
  

• Chunky Twist-n-Curl (looser waves, and easier to do!)
  

• Messy Side Bun

• High Bun- The same basic steps found in THIS VIDEO, but done on dry, previously twisted hair.

• Braid-n-Curl
  

• I haven't done a Bantu Knot-Out in a while due to the amount of time it takes to dry. I love the look, but hate sitting under the dryer!

To see pictures of my hair in the various styles, browse through My Hair.


Once a month, on a weekend, I do the following:

• Shampoo, Condition, Detangle- I shampoo with a Mehandi bar, apply conditioner, detangle, and rinse thoroughly.

• Apply Henna for an overnight treatment (4 hour treatment with heat, if I'm in a rush).

• Deep Condition the next morning, and follow the steps above for styling.
  

Hola chicas!

Fierce Fridays are back by popular demand! The images below are of CN readers at their flyyest...at work, on the town, and with the fam. Showing us all that natural hair is not a fad, it's a way of life...an extension of our beauty! Click on the images to enlarge them:

Velvet writes:

Hi Nikki!

CN: Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
I was a long term transitioner. My last relaxer was on May 24, 2009 and I big chopped on April 5, 2010. So I transitioned for about 10 months. The reason I chose the long-term route was I wanted to be fully prepared and accepting of my natural hair. I originally planned on transitioning for 16 months, but I felt that I had enough knowledge on how to take care of natural hair and I was very anxious to fully know my natural hair without any permed pieces holding me back.

CN: What was your initial reaction to your hair?
I did my BC on April 5, 2010 with the help of my sister and I immediately loved my hair. I thought I was going to be a little hesitant of my 4B hair and was thinking about rocking a twist out or braid out. But, I loved my hair so much that I wore my full fro to work the next day…and was so confident and could care less if I received compliments or not. The only regret I had was not doing it sooner.

CN: How did your family and friends react to the new you? What was your response to them?
My family was very supportive and all liked it once they saw it. I have two sisters who are natural so of course they were very happy and supportive. My mother, father, and other sister were very hesitant when I told them I would no longer get perms and was going to wear my hair fully natural. I received questions like “But, you’re going to straighten it right?” However, once they saw my hair in a puff they really liked it and said it looked very nice. My dad even said that he was happy black women were starting to love their natural hair and wear it.

CN: What was your transition routine?
The first four months of my transition I would wear my hair in cornrows and would maybe put a flower in the side to accessorize it. Every week I would co-wash my hair with Herbal Essence Hello Hydration. I would then use Castor Oil Lotion, Cantu Shea Butter Leave-In, or Cream of Nature Lemongrass as a leave in. After four months, I was tired of wearing only the cornrows and bought a couple of wigs and would wear those over my cornrows. After five more months I was really hating the wigs with a passion! So, I then started wearing my hair in a braid out that was pinned up. The pinned up braid-out received numerous compliments and many people would say they just loved my natural hair—even though I wasn’t fully natural at this point. So after a little more than a month, I BC’d.

CN: What was your staple hair style during the transition?
My staple hair style was cornrows in the beginning, wigs near the middle, and pinned-up braid out near the end.

CN: Why did you choose to go natural?
I have always had a desire to go natural beginning in 2004, however; I have always been a very insecure person and was deathly afraid of what others would think. My two sisters who were natural wore their hair in its natural state starting in high school after they decided perms were not for them. Ironically, my mother would not let us have a perm until we were in high school and when I got my first perm at 15 y. o. I was excited. However, my sisters were not fans of it. Yet, about a year ago, I started to re-evaluate my life at 25 y. o. and I realized I needed to accept myself and love myself fully the way my Lord intended for me to. I was done trying to please my peers and decided to please myself. Also, I should have never denied my God-given texture and should have accepted that He made no mistake when creating me. So, what right did I have to conform His work?

This week’s focus is on whole wheat. In its natural unrefined state, wheat features a host of important nutrients for your overall health and hair. So to receive benefit from the wholesomeness of wheat its important to choose wheat products made from whole wheat flour rather than those that are refined and stripped of their much-needed natural goodness.

The health benefits of wheat depend on the from in which you eat it. These benefits are reduced if you select wheat that has been processed into 60% extraction (bleached white flour), which is the standard for most wheat products in the U.S. This means that 40% of the original wheat grain was removed and only 60% is left. Unfortunately, in that 40% over half of the vitamins B1, B2, B3, E, folic acid, calcium, phosphorus, zinc, copper, iron, and fiber are lost. Since 1941, laws in the United States have required the “enrichment” of processed wheat flour with vitamins B1, B2, B3, and iron in response to problems created by the 60% extraction. However, if you select 100% whole-wheat or whole-grain products, all of the would be lost nutrients will remain in its natural full force in your meals and the health benefits will be impressive.

In a study published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition researchers underscored the importance of choosing whole rather than refined wheat to maintain a healthy body weight. In this particular Harvard Medical School/ Brigham and Women’s Hospital study the collected data showed that weight gain was inversely associated with the intake of high-fiber, whole-grain foods, such as whole wheat, but was positively related to the intake of refined-grain foods. Not only did the women who consumed more whole grains consistently weigh less than those who ate less of the fiber rich foods they were also less likely to gain weight.

Eating whole grains, such as whole wheat, can substantially lower the risk of type 2 diabetes. Whole grains are a rich source of magnesium, a mineral that acts as a co-factor for more than 300 enzymes, including the enzymes involved in the body’s use of glucose and insulin secretion. The FDA permits foods that contain at least 51% whole grains by weight (and are also low in fat, saturated fat, and cholesterol) to display a health claim stating that consumption is liked to lower risk of heart disease and certain types of cancer. Research now suggests that regular consumption of whole grains also reduce the risk of type 2 diabetes, as published in Diabetes Care.

In an 8-year trial, involving 41,186 participates of the Black Women’s Health Study; research data confirmed the inverse association between magnesium, calcium and major food sources in relation to type 2 diabetes that had already been reported in predominately white populations. The results were that the risk of type to diabetes was 31% lower in black women who frequently ate whole grains compared to those eating non-whole grain foods. Daily consumption of low-fat dairy foods was also helpful, lowering the risk of type 2 diabetes by 13%.

Some of the other many wonderful benefits of whole wheat include reduction of chronic inflammation, prevention of gallstones, promotion of gastrointestinal regularity and health, protection against breast cancer, protection against heart disease, and the promotion of over all health as well as an energy boost. So try kicking the refined or “enriched” grains and add whole grains for a healthy dose of zinc, iron, B vitamins and a host of other nutrients your hair will thank and reward you for. Try using whole wheat, or whole grain, bread for sandwiches or make individual pizzas using whole wheat pita breads as the crust. If you’re a big fan of pasta, then try using whole-wheat pasta for some of your favorite pasta dishes. If you’re a big fan of breakfast cereal, then reach for cereal that contains whole grain or whole wheat.


Congratulations! You just found out the fabulous news that you’re preggers. You’re filled with excitement, anticipation, anxiety, and the commitment to do everything right for baby and you. You’ve committed yourself to bringing a healthy and beautiful baby into the world, which means mommy, must be healthy as well. So now comes the question of exercise. Should you continue with your exercise routine or should you begin one to optimize health for both yourself and baby? Well, the first step to help answer the question is a visit and chat with your doctor. Usually exercise during pregnancy is encouraged, however under some circumstances exercise may be detrimental to both mom and baby. Only after a through clinical evaluation can a physician determine your exercise risks, should there be any.

Exercising during pregnancy offers many physical and emotional benefits. A good exercise program may help to relieve common problems associated with pregnancy, such as excessive weight gain, swelling of the hands and feet, leg craps, varicose veins, insomnia, fatigue, and constipation. Moms-to-be can also look forward to improved posture and circulation, reduced backaches, and increased mood and energy. Plus, you’ll feel so great in the knowledge that you’re doing something for good for your baby and yourself.

If you and your doctor decide that exercise is appropriate and safe for you and baby remember to listen to your body. The American College of Obstetricians and Gynecologists recommends that pregnant women, who have been cleared by their physician, engage in at least 30 minutes of moderate intensity physical activity on all or most days of the week. Some highly effective and generally safe physical activities during pregnancy include walking, swimming, cycling, and moderate intensity aerobics. Running, racquet sports, and strength training (when done in moderation) are safe for pregnant women who have been participating in these activities prior to becoming pregnant. Strenuous activity should only be done under careful guidance of a physician, as strenuous activity may be associated with intrauterine growth restriction.

When you are ready to design your program it is important to take into account the changes you are experiencing. Your body alignment and posture will be different and you may have reduced strength and endurance as well as extra weight, which places stress on your joints and muscles and makes the heart work harder. Let your body be your guide. You know you’re at a good intensity when you can talk normally and not become exhausted or winded too quickly.

As you progress in your pregnancy it is important to note certain precautions. After the first trimester, pregnant women should avoid exercises that require them to lie on their backs in a supine position. This can cause dizziness upon standing and it also decreases blood flow to you and baby. Also avoid sports activities with increased risk of trauma or falling, for example ice hockey, soccer, basketball, gymnastics, horseback riding, downhill skiing.

Now that you’re exercising for two, its important to pay very close attention to anything that isn’t right for you or baby. Stop exercising and call your physician if you experience ANY of the following:

1. Vaginal bleeding
2. Shortness of breath before exercising
3. Headache
4. Chest pain
5. Muscle weakness
6. Calf pain or swelling
7. Preterm labor
8. Decreased fetal movement
9. Amniotic fluid leakage

If you are interested in starting a prenatal exercise program but not sure where or how to start, first check with your physician. If your physician gives you the green light for exercise then check with the fitness centers in your area, the YMCA and community hospitals. If you’re still not sure where to start, speak with a trainer that holds a certification from an accredited organization and has specialized training in prenatal fitness to help build a safe and effective program for you and baby. Also if you’re taking fitness classes make sure your class instructor specializes in prenatal fitness in addition to holding certification from an accredited organization. Some of the most prized and respected accredited organizations include the American College of Sports Medicine (ACSM), the National Academy of Sports Medicine (NASM), the American Council on Exercise (ACE) and the Aerobics and Fitness Association of America (AFAA).

Until next week, stay happy and healthy!

KinkySheaPT

Hola Chicas,

I've been experimenting with a new product combo and technique, but before I share it with you I must try it one mo' gain... gotta make sure it wasn't a fluke!

Below are some pictures of my hair an hour ago (it's now in twists and flexis). This is day 3, and therefore wash day, so I'm trying the process for the third time tonight and should be able to share some reliable results with you tomorrow or Friday.

This set has lasted me through 3 workouts and 3 nights of wild sleeping... it was never super defined, and had that controlled frizz look instead (I love the controlled poof look!). It was shiny, bouncy, and very fluffy. The products I used were lighter than the usual suspects, and therefore my curls didn't have as much hang to them-- for me shrinking means volume, so I was in LOVE!

I've received a ton of compliments and after catching a whiff, hubby told me my hair smelled great! He hates the smell of some of my products, especially Oyin's Almond Whipped Shea. He likens it to dirty diapers.

Lucia writes:

Hey Nikki!

I would first like to thank you so much for your wonderful website- I just wish I would have found it sooner! The stories I've read on here, including yours, have been so inspiring to me. I recently BC'd about two months ago and I can truly say it was the best decision of my life. After struggling with my hair and hating it ever since I can remember, it felt so good to fall in love with beautiful tress- once and for all. Going natural is a decision I'll never regret- I LOVE IT!

CN: Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
I only transitioned for about two months before I BC'd because before I decided to go natural, I had a short "Halle" type of hair cut. It was becoming increasingly difficult to find transition hair styles and I simply just didn't know what to do with my head! I tried braids and twists with synthetic hair but that just tore out my already "weak" edges. I even wore half-wigs for a while- something I NEVER in a million years thought I'd do! But after seeing my new growth and being afraid that I was damaging it with all of these hair styles, I made a decision that enough was enough. It was time to BC.

CN: When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
I BC’d toward the end of February 2010. My initial reaction to my BC was…..SHOCK! LOL. I was soooo shocked at myself, I couldn’t believe that I actually had the guts to cut off all of my hair. Even today, I’m still in awe that I did it! I was so excited to see my natural hair for the first time in 11 years, it felt so liberating. I felt like I was on top of the world- seriously!

CN: How did family and friends react to the new you? What was your response to them?
I live in New York City and my mom lives in North Carolina. When I initially told her that I wanted to go natural she was so confused, she kind of tried to talk me out of it! Naturally, she couldn’t understand why I wanted to do it. But I explained to her how important this journey was to me and that my goal was to grow a beautiful head of HEALTHY, natural hair. She was like “oh, ok” LOL. A couple of months later I BC’d and didn’t tell her. About a month and a half after my BC, I flew to NC to visit my family. My mother said she didn’t recognize me when she was looking for me at the airport! Her initial reaction was SHOCK, I could see it in her face. I think as the day went on it began to grow on her. Finally, after a couple of days she told me she liked it! I was so happy that it grew on her! But either way, I LOVE my TWA! My other family members love it also. I think the funniest reactions I receive were from my 5 and 7 year old nieces. They walked into the room and just stared at my head in amazement. They looked at each other, and then back at me- trying so desperately to figure out what to say. Finally, one of them said “Soooo auntie, ummm….you cut it?” I said “Yes! Do you like it?” They both said “Ummmhmm, it’s niiiiice”. I couldn’t help but laugh, they were so confused. LOL, they’re so cute! I explained to them why I did it and eventually it grew on them as well. Kids are so funny!

CN: What was your transition routine ?
During my transition, I wore braids, Senegalese twist, half-wigs, and scarves. I discovered prepooing and cowashing so I began doing that. I prepooed with Organix Coconut Conditioner, washed with Giovanni Smooth As Silk shampoo, and deep conditioned with Giovanni Smooth As Silk Conditioner. I oiled my scalp every other night and used a moisturizing hair cream in between my oil days.

CN: What was your staple hair style during the transition?
I would say my staple hair “style” was the half-wig because I did that for the longest.

This was one of my transition hair styles- my friends called it my “curly sue” half-wig. LOL. I always wore a hat with it because I didn’t like the way the front of my hair looked with the half wig.


CN: How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
I made sure to moisturize at night with a cream and then again in the morning before I wore the half wig.

CN: Why did you choose to go natural?
I decided to go natural because to be honest, I was fed up. The short hair style I had was so high maintinence! I had to go to the salon every 2weeks, perm every 5-6 weeks, trim every week or so- it just became too much of a hassle. It was also taking a toll on my hair and I noticed my edges quickly disappearing from the frequent perms. All of a sudden the “cute” little hair style that I loved wasn’t worth it anymore. My hair appeared healthy when in reality, it was a total wreck! I’ve been wanting to go natural for a few years and I admired the beauty of people with natural hair. I always wondered- wow, they must feel so free! I envied their freedom and I finally figured, what the heck am I waiting for?! Am I waiting for all of my hair to fall out from the perms before I make a decision?! NO! I had waited long enough and society would no longer tell me what I had to look like. No longer will I let this worlds’ perception of beauty dictate what I do with my hair. It was time I made a decision to leave behind this “creamy crack” that my hair never liked in the first place- so I let it go. Now I’ve fallen in love with my hair for what it is- naturally BEAUTIFUL!

It feels so great to break out of what's considered "the norm" and do what makes ME happy- no matter what everyone else thinks. It took me long enough, but I've finally gotten down to the "root" of who I really am (literately...lol). I can honestly say that for the first time in my life, I am happy with my hair. There is not a perm in the world that can give me the confidence that my TWA has given me and I thank God for my natural hair everyday!

Hola Chicas!

I'm a huge fan of green drinks, but since I'm preggers, I'm taking a prenatal. I researched vitamins the same way I did natural hair, and decided that Rainbow Light One (a food based vitamin-- some argue that these are better than the ones that contain minerals and vitamins chemically derived in a lab) would be one of the better brands to invest in. My doc said it doesn't matter in any way, and that Flinstones Chewables would be just as effective, lol. I hate the size and smell of the RL prenatal, but I suppose it's doing what it should. I like that it contains appropriate amounts of each vitamin and the proper form of vitamin A (Beat-Carotene). I've been taking it for nearly 6 months now.

Before I started taking my prenatal, I had a glass of Green Vibrance every morning. It was the only vitamin/supplement that I could 'feel' working. It gave me energy and with breakfast, kept me feeling full until lunch. Unfortunately it tastes like swamp butt, and MUST be mixed into apple juice for it to be considered palatable. While vacay'ing in Vegas last year, I had nothing to mix it with except for a bottle of Dasani. I poured the packet in, shook it up, and took a sip. I gagged. It was horrible... not even an acquired taste. I choked half the bottle down and vowed never to be without juice again. Despite the ass taste, I'll definitely go back to it once the little munchkin arrives.

Prior to Green Vibrance I was an avid user of Trader Joe's Super Crusade. An independent study was performed (on TJ's and many other vitamins on the market), and they concluded that it in fact contains all the ingredients the label claims. Good, right? Shame on those folks making supplements out there that are lying to us :-( I also love TJ's because the pill is relatively small (the size of a Tylenol gel capsule), goes down easy, and the price is right!

CN: How long have you been natural?
I’ve been natural for two years and 4months! Honestly, I was an unintentional long-term transitioner. Senior year of high school I kept missing my relaxer touch-up appointments and decided to cut off 8 inches of my hair (it was ridiculously long, and a lot of my girlfriends were like “WTF?! Why would you do that??” but I was itching for some change). The summer before college was so stressful because my hair kept breaking off, so I just kept my hair in braids for the most part.

CN: What is your current regimen?
Co-wash with Herbal Essences Hello Hydration twice a week. If I wear a protective style for a while and my hair feels super product-y I will shampoo with suave naturals coconut (if I shampoo I *always* pre-poo with EVOO). I detangle with KC knot-today and use a little cantu shea butter leave-in and my unrefined shea butter and coconut oil mixture. If I want extra hold for my wash n go’s, I’ll use some ECO styler gel. I deep condition with Curl Junkie Gardenia coconut intense fix once a week as well.

As far as styles I will wear wash n gos, put my hair in flexi rods for some really defined curls or wear bantu knot outs.

CN: How do you maintain length? Moisture?
I try to leave my hair alone. The only times I will straighten my hair is to get it trimmed. Using shea butter and coconut oil to seal my ends and to keep in moisture has definitely helped. I’m Somali/Ethiopian so for the most part, our hair tends to grow pretty fast but I like shoulder-length curly hair so I try to keep it like that.

CN: How do you protect your curls at night?
I rock wash n gos for the most part, so I put some coconut oil on my ends and sleep on a satin pillow. Sometimes I’ll put in 6-8 braids and wrap my hair with scarf.

CN: What would you tell a new natural, or transitioning diva?
Stay positive!! Be good to your hair. Eat well, take vitamins with biotin.

CN: What's the best thing about being naturally glamorous?
Every day is like a new adventure! I never know what my hair will be like the next morning and the fact that no one else has the same hair. It’s crazy because the days I wake up feeling so crusty and hating my hair are the days I’ll get compliments on it from the most random people.

CN: Anything else you'd like to add?
Love your curlies!!!