Curly Nikki | Natural Hair Styles and Curly Hair Care

Shortnsweet asks;

Hey ladies!

What are some of your staple products for wash n' go's since the warmer months are upon us?

Tonya McKay of NaturallyCurly writes;

We get a lot of questions about whether or not castor oil is okay for curly hair. Another related question is what PEG-30 castor oil is (or any other PEG-#), and whether it is compatible with curly hair, especially for those on shampoo-free or shampoo-minimal routines.

Castor oil is a plant-derived oil obtained from the seeds (castor beans) of the plant Ricinus communis. It is a mixture of triglycerides composed of several different fatty acids. It is a mono-unsaturated fat, with a one double carbon-carbon bond per arm of the triglyceride. The major component is ricinoleic acid, with the remainder of the oil being comprised of oleic, linoleic, stearic, and several other organic acids.

Castor oil is known for its excellent emollient and lubricant properties, as well as for its film-forming capabilities that make it useful in skin creams and in some hair styling products. The chemical structure of castor oil also helps it act as a humectant, so that it attracts water to the hair and skin. It has a relatively high viscosity, enabling a formulator to use it to thicken products, which can impart a more luxurious sensation for the consumer.

One drawback of castor oil is that the film it forms has been found to sometimes feel a bit tacky or sticky to the touch. Also, if used on hair in its natural state, the film it forms on hair is not water soluble, which can be a problem for those who use low- or no-shampoo routines. This film can also have a tendency to attract other oils and dirt if not removed regularly, so it would be necessary to use a reasonably strong shampoo when you’re using a castor oil product.

The chemistry of the major component of castor oil (ricinoleic acid) is fairly unique among triglycerides. This unusual fatty acid possesses hydroxyl (-OH) groups on each arm of the molecule, which make it more polar than other fatty acids. The hydroxyl group also facilitates chemical modification of the triglyceride, allowing creation of derivatives with desired properties for many different applications.Molecular structure of PEG-modified castor oil surfactants. Surfactol 318 and 365 are trade names for products with different PEG amounts.

Read on...

Oh man I really hate politics. I guess a more accurate description would be that I hate politicians. Why? Because in all my travels, I have yet to find one that hasn’t shaken hands with the devil to get where they are. But while the ones already in office say some off-the-wall stuff, it’s the antics of those trying to get there that are truly reprehensible. Enter Donald Trump.

The bombastic billionaire must be feeling invincible these days. First there was that ‘racist’ interview on a New York radio station recognized as out of touch by anyone who’s spent any time on any floor other than the penthouse. But Trump didn’t stop there; he continued to push this notion, embraced by a few on the fringe that President Obama was not born in this country and therefore his presidency is invalid, the so-called Birther Movement. Finally, as you doubtless know, in an effort to quell the cacophony, President Obama and the White House yesterday released his long form birth certificate, which of course, The Donald took full credit for prompting.


Wow. There are so many things wrong with this situation I’m not really even sure where to start. But at first blush there are at least three that we can talk about.

TRUMP: I would imagine he’s sporting an arm sling today after all that back patting he did yesterday. Proud of himself? Why? Because the White house produced a hard copy of something that according to reports had been available online for years? Why on earth are we going to trust him in matters of national security when he can’t execute a simple Google search or find a hair color that occurs in nature?

PRESIDENT OBAMA: Why? Why, why, why would he stoop to the level of chatter coming from a man most famous for boardroom hyperbole? The President did a good job last summer when he dismissed much of the chatter coming from the cable channels calling it a distraction from the real issues facing the country. But why now? Why didn’t he just continue on the way he had been, rising above it instead of engaging?

THE MEDIA: This is the final piece of this effed up, soup sandwich. I’m not talking about the cablers, who have endless hours of airtime to fill with endless speculation and conspiracy theories. No it was the over-the air broadcasters that moved the ball down the field. From behind the podium at the White House briefing room, President Obama scolded the press corps, pointing out that, had he held a press conference talking about national security no one would have broken into regular programming. The reason that’s a big deal is because they would have to cut into commercial time, and that’s how the networks make money. No, it would have to be something REALLY big to do that. A national security briefing, covering the clear and present dangers that exist around the world, bah, who cares? But producing the birth certificate, the result of a story kept alive because of rantings by a megalomaniac, among others? STAND BY! We’re live in 3, 2 1..

Why does this bother me enough to write about it? Because President Obama should not have had to do it. I know there will be those of you who want to believe we live in a colorblind society; I want to believe that too. But the fact is issues of race in this country cast a long shadow, whether you’re the first African American president of the United States, a network news anchor or any other professional or working class stiff.

Black is black, and that means having to lead a life of calculated concessions with other people’s comfort in mind. It means having to think twice about how you’re dressed when you go into a high end store on Madison Avenue, only to realize it ultimately won’t matter; store security will follow you so closely they’ll trip over your Gucci shoes and the Prada bag slung over your shoulder. It means having to watch your tone when you lose your temper, lest you be accused of being an Angry Black Woman. It means learning to smile politely when people say things like, “ You talk like you’re white.” or “ You sure are pretty for a black girl.” Yes, I have heard them both.

So there he was, President Obama, leader of the free world, standing behind the podium being forced to show his “papers” because a bombastic gadfly made enough noise to induce lemming-like behavior among the immediate gratification crowd. Pitiful. Shameful. Wrong. There’s much more to say and the issues go so much deeper than can be addressed here. But I’m weary and worn down by it all, perhaps a bit like our president, who was forced to make another in his own series of calculated concessions. Somehow I doubt it will be his last.

But what do you think? Should President Obama have had to respond to a small but vociferous crowd about this issue? Do you think this will settle the issue once and for all? And what do you think it will take to make real progress on race in this country.

A gentle reminder; this is another hot issue. I ask that people respect one another’s opinions so that we can have intelligent debate and possibly even learn something.

CN: Were you a long-term or short-term transitioner, and why?
C: I would say I was an average transitioner. I transitioned for about 7 months. I was so tired of my hair getting knotted. One day, I got up and told my sister I wanted to cut my hair. So, I did. My sister and cousin came with me for support.

CN: When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
C: I BC’d on February 19, 2010. I was both really nervous and excited at the same time. I told the barber I didn't want to see my hair until it was all cut off. After I saw my hair, I was in shock for two days. Then I fell in love with it. I started taking pictures of my hair every day.


CN: How did family and friends react to the new you? What was your response to them?
C: Oh man, the only support I had was really from my sister and some friends. My family hated it, especially my dad. Every time he saw me, he would make some type of joke. I didn't care what my family or anyone else said about my hair. I was so happy with my decision that it didn't bother me. I told them in a few months they were going to give me a lot of compliments.

CN: What was your transition routine?
C: During my transition, I washed my hair once a week with Giovanni Tea Tree Shampoo. Then, I would deep condition with Aubrey Organic Conditioner Honeysuckle Rose. After I washed my hair, I would put rods in my hair. The style would last for a whole week, and I would repeat the same thing the following week. I bought some essential oils like rosemary, tea tree, jojoba oil, castor oil, and coconut oil. I would make a spray bottle with some of these oils and spray my hair with it when I wore braids.

CN: What was your staple hair style during the transition?
C: Rod sets were my favorite hairstyle to do when I was transitioning. I received lots of compliments when I used to do that style. I started to wear braids and twists when I was getting tired of doing my hair.

CN: How did you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
C: I learned how to moisturize by doing research. I watched a whole bunch of YouTube videos, and read a lot of blogs, especially Curlynikki.com. I started to co-wash my hair more and tried to use more natural products on my hair. I used oils like olive oil, coconut oil, and castor oil in my hair. I mixed castor, jojoba, rosemary, and lavender to massage my scalp 2 to 3 times a week. I made sure that I used a deep conditioner in my hair every week. I also did protein treatments as well to keep my new growth strong.

CN: Why did you choose to go natural?
C: I decided to go natural because I was getting tired of my straight hair. I was bored with my hair. The only style I wore was either straight down or in a ponytail. One summer I discovered rods, and the whole summer, that's what I did. I loved the whole curly look. I always used to say I wish I had curly hair. Little did I know I had some type of curls in my hair, I just didn't know that. So I stopped putting perms in my hair after this stylist told me that I had beautiful curls. It was a white guy. Plus, I loved the waves I was seeing in my hair because I didn't perm it for 3 months. Well this is my story. I hope it encourages anyone that is transitioning or thinking about going natural. My hair is growing and is very healthy. Since my friends noticed, 3 of them went natural, including my sister. I love having natural hair, and I don't regret this decision at all. I wish I had made this decision years ago.

Hola chicas!

It's that time again! The images below are of CN readers at their flyyest...at work, on the town, and with the fam. Showing us all that natural hair is not a fad, it's a way of life...an extension of our beauty! Click on the images to enlarge them:

Qhemet Biologics is an all-natural line of products for kinky/coily hair based on African, Mediterranean & Ayurvedic hair care traditions. Winners will receive either the Dry, Coarse Hair or Dry, Fine Hair collection.

Qhemet Biologics products do not contain mineral oil, silicones, sls, phthalates, parabens, dmdh hydantoin, triclosan, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, diazolidinyl urea or imidazolidinyl urea.

Tonya McKay of NaturallyCurly writes;

Because of the high interest in silicones, we periodically take a closer look at some of the many silicones found in hair-care products. This month we’ll be looking at Cyclomethicone.
Cyclomethicone is the INCI (International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients) name for a category of silicones used in many personal-care products. Cyclopentsiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, and cyclohexasiloxane are also designations for the same class of molecules. In contrast with linear silicones such as dimethicone, these molecules have a cyclic, or ring-like architecture comprised of only four to six repeat units of the dialkyl siloxane group. These are much smaller molecules than the polymeric silicones, such as polydimethyl siloxane (dimethicone) which may have hundreds of thousands of siloxane repeat units.

Cyclic silicones (or siloxanes) are frequently used as solvents for fragrance and essential oils, and also as carrier fluids for higher molecular weight silicones such as dimethicone and dimethiconol. This aids the formulator in preparing her final product because she can prepare her oil phase by combining cyclomethicone and the silicone and/or fragrance oil and add her emulsifier, prior to addition of the entire oil phase to the aqueous phase.

Cyclomethicones are also favored by formulators because they spread easily on the hair and skin, and the lubrication they provide isn’t greasy or tacky. Because of their low vapor pressure, they evaporate easily from hair or skin at room temperature, and therefore aren’t prone to build-up or an oily residue. For this reason, they are sometimes used as an additive in products such as spray leave-in conditioners to help speed drying time. Another benefit of their low vapor pressure is that it provides a way for the desired ingredients to penetrate into the hair shaft or skin. The cyclic silicone is too large to penetrate the skin or hair itself, but is small enough to dissolve the beneficial ingredient, deposit it onto the hair surface, and then evaporate, leaving behind the beneficial ingredient.

Read on...

Sian writes;

This side dish pairs great with roasted or grilled salmon or chicken. This recipe makes about 6 servings (about 2/3 cups each) and takes about 30 minutes to make.

Nutrition Profile: Diabetes appropriate, low calorie, low saturated fat, low sodium, heart healthy, healthy weight appropriate and high fiber.

Ingredients:

2 cups water

1 cup quick-cooking barley

8 ounces sugar snap peas, trimmed and sliced into matchsticks

½ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley

¼ cup finely chopped red onion

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 table spoons lemon juice

¾ teaspoon

¼ teaspoons freshly ground pepper

Directions:

1. In a medium sauce pan, bring water to a boil. Add barley and cook, covered for 10 to 12 minutes or according to the directions on the package. Remove from heat and let stand while covered for 5 minutes.

2. Rinse the barley under cool water and transfer to a large bowl. Add snap peas, parsley, onion, oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Toss to combine and serve.

Nutrition Facts:

Per serving (about 2/3 cups): 152 calories; 5 g fat (1 g sat, 4 g mono); 0mg cholesterol; 23 g carbohydrates; 4 g protein; 4 g fiber.



This product caught my eye on several occasions while browsing around in my local Best Buy store and as with a lot of fitness products my curiosity got the best of me, especially since I’m such a “Tech Junkie”. Questions that first came to mind were: What is it? How accurate is it? How does it work? And finally, is it worth the cost? I was more than ready to pick this fitness product apart as there are so many fitness products on the market designed more for taking our hard earned money rather than helping us to reach our fitness goals. For the price of this gadget, I had to check it out.

Basically put, the Fitbit is an electronic accelerometer that clips on clothing and tracks calories burned, steps, distance and sleep quality. The Fitbit is about the size of a Bluetooth device and uses a 3D motion sensor very similar to the one used with the Nintendo Wii. The information collected from the Fitbit is wirelessly uploaded to Fitbit.com, where users can track activity levels, set goals, log food intake and even compete with other users (should the spirit move them). The purchase price (which may be a turn off for many) includes the Fitbit tracker, a wireless base station (which plugs into your computer and doubles as a charging station), software and access to the web-based tracking system. The Fitbit was launched back in 2009 and was named the “best innovations” in the Health and Wellness category at the 2009 Consumer Electronics Show.

One of the things I personally found appealing about this product was of course the tracking qualities. Some people are completely satisfied with checking the scale every morning or getting into a pair of skinny jeans or a certain dress to determine the effectiveness of their diet and exercise routine and that's perfectly fine. Personally, I’m the kind of personal that’s more structured (and encourages others to be as this approach is most effective in weight management) in keeping a food or activity journal, calories burned, and so on. The Fit bit has a blue display on the tracker itself that provides data for steps, mileage, and calories burned for easy reference throughout and can be stored for about 30 days. The data is uploaded by simply passing by the base station. The Fitbit website is pretty easy to navigate and input for basic foods is fairly easy but homemade foods can be a bit time consuming. However, the foods are analyzed by fat, protein and carbohydrate content, unfortunately without percentages.

My likes and dislikes? Well, the tracking features, tech specs, and the lack of additional charges for access to the website are things that I do like about this product (but then again I repeat I’m a “Tech Junkie”.) But there are some things that I didn’t like so much about the product. One is the price. This product sells for $99- $110. If you’re looking for just a pedometer there are much less expensive varieties that work just as well. Another downside is the nutrients from calories consumed are not analyzed with percentages. So, as an example, if you want to keep your fat intake to 30% of your total calorie intake, then my lovely math majors you’ll need to break out your calculator and figure that out on your own.

The American Council on Exercise also reviewed this product and gave it a 5 out of 5 star rating. Some of the things they liked about the Fitbit were the free interactive website, the added feature of tracking sleep (which might be helpful for troubled sleepers), long batter life, the small size, and the ease of recording and tracking workouts. Things they didn’t like (like myself) were the high price if the device is only used for tacking steps and the time consuming task of inputting food data with a lack of important information.

So is the Fitbit worth it? The Fitbit seems like a good fitness product with a lot of bonuses. If this is a product that you can honestly see yourself using every day and getting the most of the features the price affords you, then yes it would be worth it. However, if you’re just looking to increase your daily activity levels (or if you're honest with yourself and realize that you'll use it for about a week and then it will be a dust collector), again I would suggest purchasing a less expensive pedometer. For more information on Fitbit visit www.fitbit.com.

Until next week…

KinkySheaPT

I am a process. You are a process. We are a process. Each of us is perpetually ‘becoming’. There is no [natural] end. What doesn’t grow is dead.

Perfection is illusory, yet I strive to manifest it in the most possible way by simply being better. Sometimes, I fail. Sometimes, I succeed. Some lessons take a while to truly get and some changes take longer to implement than desired. Everything in its course as everything happens in its own time. Knowing that, however, shouldn’t negate exercising effort.

Just today, I told my cousin how I feel like a late bloomer in some ways. She said, “I don’t think you’re a late bloomer, you just have your own lessons to learn and you will. Be patient with yourself, you’ll get it in God’s time.”

I’m not who I was and at some point, I won’t be who I am now. The term “growing pains” is appropriate for so many phases in life, if not the sum of it. Growth–change–can hurt. Does hurt. But taking refuge in stagnation is no remedy.

You are a process, always becoming who you will be. People will try to confine you to who you were or who they’d like you to be, but “I” is beyond definition because ”I” is not static. You are transforming regularly. You change your ideas, modify your behavior, set different goals and declare new resolutions. Who you have been and who you are now is not who you will be. Evolve. You are a process. So is everybody else. Remember that.

“No person is your friend who demands your silence, or denies your right to grow.”
- Alice Walker

Image source: Teddy

Tonya McKay of NaturallyCurly writes;

For people with curly hair, silicones elicit many emotions. For some, they are a holy grail ingredient, while others shy away from them for fear they will dry out their hair.

It is evident that there exists a considerable amount of confusion in the curly community in regard to whether silicones are good for curly hair and compatible with shampoo free hair care routines.

In this column, we’ll take a look at amodimethicone and other similar molecules, such as bis-aminopropyl dimethicone and trimethyl silylamodimethicone. And we’ll talk about the pros and cons of using them, especially if you shy away from sulfates.

These are being used more often by chemists as conditioning agents in hair product formulations. They are popular because of their ease of use in processing and manufacturing products as well as for their many benefits to the hair.

Amodimethicone is an abbreviation of “amine-functionalized silicone,” which is a family of silicones modified to have specific properties. The simplest, and perhaps most well-known silicone, polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone, by INCI naming standards), consists of methyl groups (-CH3) as the pendant group along the backbone of the polymer chain (Figure 1). Amine-functionalized silicones have been chemically modified so that some of the pendant groups along the backbone have been replaced with various alkylamine groups (-R-NH2). These amine groups become positively charged in aqueous solutions because of their electron-donating (basic) tendencies, yielding an inorganic, cationic polymer.

These inorganic cationic polymers deposit onto the hair because of the electrostatic attraction between the polymer and the negatively-charged protein surface of the cuticle. In this manner, they behave much like polyquaternium materials (organic cationic polymers), which are excellent conditioning agents as well. The charge density of the polymer can be varied by changing the placement and quantity of the amine groups. A polymer with greater charge density will be more substantive to the hair than one with lesser charge density.

One interesting property of these polymers is that they provide selective conditioning to the areas most in need of it. The mechanism by which they accomplish this is, again, electrostatic attraction. Highly damaged areas of the hair cuticle possess higher negative charge density, which enhances the affinity of the cationic polymer to that specific area. These polymers can provide a targeted beneficial effect.

Read on...

Updo's should be a part of every woman's arsenal of hairstyles. Nothing says lady quite like a nicely pinned coif. There are a ton of styles available to create a great look. So get creative and try an updo today.

Benefits:

• Can be creative
• Takes only a few minutes
• It doesn't have to be perfect
• Anyone can do it
  

My favorite updo is a mixture of the front of my hair swooped to the side and the remainder (the back and sides) rolled up tight! I really just pull my hair back, roll and tuck tightly if I want it to be a protective style. I just make sure all the ends are not exposed.

So grab some hair pins and start rolling and pinning! Get creative, it doesn't have to be perfect it just has to be you!

CN: How long have you been natural?
I’ve been natural for 8 months. I big chopped in August 2010.

CN: Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
I was definitely a long-term transitioner! I transitioned for a year because I was deathly afraid of wearing a short ‘do. I had long hair all my life and with everyone telling me I had a “fat face” that wouldn’t look right with short hair, I felt as though I NEEDED to gain some length before doing my big chop.


CN: What is your current regimen?
I wash and deep condition my hair once a week. I use either Kyah Alexandria’s Natural Shampoo Bar or Shea Moisture’s Curl Control Shampoo to wash my hair. I like to deep condition with Jane Carter’s Nutrient Replenishing Conditioner, but once a month I use CURLS Ecstasy Hair Tea because it has protein in it.

If I’m not trying to do a new style, I twist my hair into medium sized twists and do a protective style for the next 4-6 days and rock a twist-out for the remaining days before I do the same thing all over again for the following week.

CN: How do you maintain Length? Moisture?
Protective styles! I can’t stress that enough! I love twists because you can style them in so many ways AND get them wet and it won’t wreak havoc on your style. I have gained so much length by wearing my hair in protective styles 80 percent of the time and by moisturizing my hair with water and sealing it in with an oil every 3 days.

CN: Night time routine?
If I have twists in my hair, I just fall asleep on my satin pillowcase. If I‘m rocking a twist-out, I’ll re-twist my hair in 10 large twists before falling asleep on my satin pillow case. Easy breezy!



CN: What would you tell a new natural, or transitioning diva?
Do your research! There is so much information about natural hair, but if you take time and sift through it to figure out what is best for you and your hair type, you’ll thank yourself in the long run. Also, listen to your hair! Sometimes we try to force ourselves to like a product just because so and so likes it, but if it doesn’t agree with your hair, don’t force it! You’ll save yourself a lot of time, money, and energy, and keep your hair happy!

CN: What's the best thing about being naturally glamorous?
Being naturally glamorous allows myself to creatively express how I am on the inside out! When I had a relaxer, I felt l wasn’t a representation of who I truly was, but being natural gives me the confidence and flare to do so. I also love that I have the freedom to do whatever whenever I want. My hair is no longer holding me back!


CN: Anything else you want to add?
It’ so amazing to see so many women taking the steps (however many they need) to being natural. I see more and more women each day rockin’ their natural kinks and curls and each time I get ecstatic. For your readers who would like to keep up with me on my journey and share more hair tips and styles, check out my YouTube channel!

Janetta of birdiztheword writes;

I graduate in like 2 weeks! OMG! I want my Inbetweeny Fro to be the most fabulous it has ever been since the chop! No joke, my hair has to be F-L-Y. I'm positive it's going to feel like Satan's armpits outside so I need something that will hold up to the heat (at least until after post-ceremony pics are taken). Did I mention how glad I am the ceremony is INDOORS? [my fro goes out to all of you curlies that have to sit outside =( ] I'm thinking something stretched and luscious! Graduation caps are fugly as it is and I feel like I can subtract some of the ugly if my hair looks amazing, lol. Not to mention all of the photo proof! I don't want one of those "What the hell was I thinking?!" moments afterwards. Decisions. Decisions. Decisions. Any Ideas?!!



Jamila of College Curlies responds;

I will definitely be wearing my hair in a curly style! I've only straightened my hair three times, all of which I felt out of sorts and (no diss to my straight girls out there)...regular. Here are some options for graduation pics and for the big day:

• Cap in hand: If you want to rock the curly style and are afraid of cap head, have the photographer take pictures of you holding your cap in your hands (as opposed to actually on your head). This might not be the most desirable option, but in 20 years I'd rather look back and see the person I was at the time, than risk damaging my hair and not feeling like myself!

• Twist it up: You can certainly find a protective style a few days before photo time that is easy to maintain and small enough to fit under the cap, like these curlies did here and here. You could try curly twists or mini twists, which can be styled all kinds of ways throughout the week.

• Rod/Flexi-Rod Set: This will create small tight curls that will last for a few days. If you have thick hair, it might help with consistency and make your curls smaller and easier to manage.

• Low Puff: Depending on how long your hair is, you could pull it back into a low puff so that it sits right under your cap.

• Accessorize! Bring a few headbands, flowers, and bobby pins in case your hair gets fussed up during the photo session, or under the cap during the ceremony. Always good to have these on deck!
  

Silicones have been a very popular ingredient in hair care products for several decades. One notable product was called “Sudden Date”, which was touted for its ability to add shimmer to the hair and to revive a tired hairstyle in the event that there was no time for a proper washing. Their popularity has grown due to their unique ability to condition the hair without the build-up associated with many of the more traditional oils and fatty alcohols. According to a recent publication by Dow Corning, 82% of new hair care products introduced in the USA contain silicones.

The reason for the popularity of silicones in products for the skin and hair lies in their molecular structure. Rather than being made up of a carbon-based backbone (organic), silicones (inorganic) are made up of a backbone of repeating units of silicon bonded to oxygen, with small organic molecules forming a sheath around the outside of the molecule. This unique structure allows the silicone molecule to be very flexible and also to spread very easily and evenly onto the surface of a hair strand. The flexibility of the molecule allows for the passage of gaseous molecules through its structure. This makes the films formed on the surface of the hair very “breathable.” The films that are formed are noted for their lightweight, emollient and silky feel, and thus these materials are used as conditioning agents in many products. Silicones also have a high refractive index which makes light reflect off the surface of the hair, making it appear shiny and glossy.

Silicones are used as conditioning agents in shampoos, where they have been found to deposit at high rates onto the surface of the hair, especially if combined in the product with a cationic (positively-charged) polymer (referred to on labels as Polyquaterniums). This mechanism of conditioning is known as “dilution deposition” or the “Lochhead Effect.” Due to this property, they played a major role in the innovation of two-in-one shampoos, and are still used in those formulations today.

Silicones are also used in rinse-off conditioners, intensive treatment conditioners and leave-in conditioners, where they reduce combing friction, provide an emollient effect, impart gloss and reduce static charge between hair strands. In styling products, their primary role is to add a softening effect (called plasticization) to the sometimes brittle polymers used to hold the style. Some forms have been found to aid in color retention, to boost foaming of shampoos and to enhance curl retention.

There are many different forms of silicones as the backbone lends itself to chemical modifications which can influence the final properties of the molecule. Also, the number of repeat units present in the molecule (known as the molecular weight) will affect the performance of the ingredient, depending upon the final application of the product. It should be mentioned for practitioners of the “Curly Girl method” that only the PEG-modified ones or the dimethicone copolyols are water soluble.

Read on...

Adrienne (not pictured above) writes;

I am a 4a/4b extremely dense natural just over 2 yrs now. I have an infant and time is not my friend. Finally I am reaching the point where I realize your hair when you first go natural is not the head of hair you end up with years down the road. Is there anyone else out there whose length and density has been getting the best of them? Are your staple styles no longer achievable due to length and ability to manipulate your tresses? Are you finding yourself revisiting the emotions you felt when you first transitioned or big chopped?

Don't get me wrong I love my fro, and am happy not to have my thinning relaxed hair, but lately I'm getting discouraged at the thought of being stuck with just a couple of options. Styling soaking wet, sectioning, finger combing, night time routine set, and still I have trouble. In the name of less breakage I realized twist-outs should be given a break, however, I am stuck with a head band or couple of bobby pins. I can't remember the blog, but I saw a woman comment on the subject, I'm paraphrasing, " Some textures should just realize that certain things are not achievable and they'd be happier with their hair". Keep in mind I'm a simple girl. All I ask is for the ability to just pull off a puffy ponytail, lol! Isn't that the goal when you first decide to ditch the relaxer? Having versatility and spending less time fighting your hair, and more time enjoying your hair. Any thoughts/comments from the 4yr and beyond veterans out there?

Yes, technically you can eat this mask, but it’s for your hair. It sounds good to eat but with the addition of avocado, I’m not sure it will taste that good. I like my avocado without banana! But on my kinky tresses, sounds like heaven to me.

This is an easy mask to do in your kitchen and it’s a great mask to do on your at home spa days. While giving yourself your pamper treatments you can treat your hair to a sweet hair treatment.

In your kitchen blender add:
1/2 an organic banana (mash beforehand so that it will blend well without little pieces)
1/4 avocado
1/4 th teaspoon of lecithin
1/8 th teaspoon of organic honey
2 teaspoons of sweetened condensed milk
1 tablespoon wheat germ oil
1 tablespoon plain yogurt

Blend well making sure the banana is not chunky. However, be sure that the mask is not liquefied so that it does not run down your neck. For extra conditioning, squeeze in the contents of a vitamin e capsule. Leave in hair for 15 – 30 minutes and rinse well.

Why bananas?
Bananas contain tryptophan, a rich amino acid that is known to be extremely beneficial for hair and skin. They are chock full of potassium which adds super softening properties to the hair shaft. Along with vitamins A, B, C and E bananas contain rich natural oils and carbohydrates. All these goodies shore up the natural elasticity of the hair and prevents split ends.

Besides all the softening and beautifying properties bananas smell wonderful. The aroma of bananas was found to be the most popular aroma in a study published in 1988. The trend continues.

Spas are the only ones that know about the great beauty benefits of bananas. The Taiwano Indians use heated extract of banana as regular softening scalp treatments.

Why lecithin?
Lecithin is important to healthy hair growth. It also helps to break down fats, is essential to cell membranes, improves brain function and keeps cells from oxidating. It is comprised mostly of B vitamins, such as choline and insitol. You can find lecithin in foods such as egg yolks, or take it as a supplement.

When it comes to transitioning from relaxed to natural hair, hair pieces like weaves ,wigs, and hair extensions, can become a girl’s new best friend. I did the big chop, but not all ladies want to go that route and dramatically sacrifice length. They rather do things more gradual. And I can understand and respect that.

That’s where weaves, wigs, and even hair extensions come in as great transitioning tools to aid in protective styling while letting you maintain an incredibly fabulous look. But they have to be worn correctly. Because bad hair pieces can (1) make you look a hot mess while (2) slowly but surely damaging your new natural hair and even, gasp, balding you in the process!

As a doctor, I would advise against wearing any weave or wig that’s uncomfortable or too tight. This will lead to hair breakage and even balding. And if you choose to wear any hair piece, I would also advise that you get it professionally done. Why? Because if going bald isn’t bad enough, some women also add insult to injury when they rock hair pieces that also look a hot mess. We’ve all seen those ratty, bird nest-looking weaves and wigs. Not a good look.

So future naturalistas, if you want to rock a hair piece while transitioning, I say go for it! And current naturalistas, if you want to use hair pieces for protective styling, that’s cool too. Just pay very close attention to maintenance and hair hygiene. Follow my 4 tips, and in no time, you’ll be well on your way to gorgeous natural hair!

1. Watch your hairline and loosen up
It’s not a good look to wear a wig that looks like its eating your forehead or wear extensions that are so tight that your eyebrows stay raised in a perpetually surprised look. And besides not being a good look, these are also the quickest ways to cause hair loss. Every time you remove that hair piece, you’re stripping hair right out of your follicles- which equals permanent hair loss. So if you want to use a hair piece, avoid tight styles and do not glue anything directly to your hair or hairline.

2) Take vitamins
When you wear a hair piece, it’s important to remember that you should also be paying attention to the health of your own natural hair underneath. There will come the time when you won’t want to wear your weave/wig anymore. So while you’re rocking your cute little hair piece, make sure to eat healthy, drink lots of water, and take vitamins. The thing to remember is that healthy hair starts from the inside out. So take a good multivitamin, biotin, or prenatal vitamins, which are great for optimal hair growth and hair health.

3) Moisturize your natural hair
While you wear your hair piece, you should also make sure you moisturize your natural hair- don’t just forget about it underneath your hair piece. There are tons of hair products options. I'm natural haired, was recently featured in Essence and talked about some of the hair products I use. You will have to experiment with what works for you. There’s bad stuff, good stuff, and great stuff. And when it comes to the bad stuff, I will say that there are a few ingredients that you should definitely limit or avoid. These ingredients are sodium lauryl sulfate, alcohol, petroleum and mineral oil- all of which cause buildup, are drying, pore-clogging and moisture-blocking. Instead use products from reputable brands, as well as products that contain great moisturizers like olive oil and jojoba oil.

4) Regularly shampoo, condition, and style
I cannot stress enough that regular shampooing, conditioning, and styling is a very important part of transitioning/protective styling with a weave or wig. Don’t go longer than 1 week without washing your hair. Buildup of hair products and bacteria, can lead to mild and even serious scalp inflammation and infections, which can also lead to hair loss. And if you’re fortunate not to get an infection, there is the embarrassment of having smelly hair. And nobody wants that. Basically, you can’t just slap on a hair piece and think that’s the end of things. You have to be as meticulous as you would have been without the hair piece. Comb it. Wash it. Style it. Wrap your hair at night. Be good to it. Love it! Even though it’s not your actual hair, it’s still a product that needs to be taken care of and maintained as you transition.

And that’s all folks! Now a few questions….

Are you considering using a weave, wig, or hair extensions to transition to natural hair? Do you currently wear a weave, wig, or hair extensions for protective styling? If so, can you offer any additional tips or advice?

Dear Tonya: Why is it that some products formulated with “gentle” surfactants and marketed as natural or sulfate-free actually seem to be more drying and damaging to my hair? I thought these products were supposed to be more gentle and kind to my fragile curls.

A: This question pops up frequently, and I have asked it myself when trying out new products without having really scrutinized the ingredients list. (Yes, even the CurlChemist sometimes buys things without much regard for the ingredients list, simply because the products look nice, smell nice, or have good promises on the package). Several factors are at play here.

Concentration of Cleansing Agent

It is possible that some of these sulfate-free shampoos contain very high percentages of surfactant, resulting in a product that is more effective at removing fatty acids and dirt from the scalp and hair. This can be disastrous for hair that is already fragile and that struggles with being too dry already. Unfortunately, it is not possible to determine this information by reading the ingredients list, as the labeling requirement is simply that the ingredients are listed in order of concentration—typically highest to lowest. Thus, the first surfactant on the list could be in the formula at 10%, 20%, or even 30% (or anything in between), and it would not be evident to the consumer.

Lack of gentle co-surfactants

Many products formulated with some of the stronger surfactants contain additional detergents called co-surfactants. These are typically materials such as cocamidopropyl betaine, fatty alcohols, and mild cationic surfactants. The mixture of these various surfactants act to diminish both the potential irritancy of the product and the oil stripping capability. The micelles formed in such mixed surfactant systems exhibit different physical and kinetic behaviors than those comprised of a single surfactant. The result is typically a milder formulation. Some of the products advertised as more pure or more gentle actually leave this important step out of their formulation.

I wanted to share our experience with mini twists. We both needed a much needed break from hair so after watching KinkyKurlyQueen's video (below) I decided to try them on A. Her mini twists lasted 1 month (although they could have lasted longer) and we both enjoyed them.

I think these would be great for little girls during the Spring/Summer time so they don't have to worry about getting their hair styled every week and can just go outside and enjoy the beautiful weather. Mom also gets a break! ;)


I banded A's hair overnight in 4 sections. The next day I removed the bands from the back section of her hair. Her hair was already parted from ear to ear. I took another look at KinkyCurlyQueen's mini twist picture and decided I would part at an angle, or slant. See picture below.


I continued parting at an angle. This made the process go by much quicker. After the back section was done I moved to the top right section. I parted at an angle from the front of her forehead to in front of her right ear. I continued parting at an angle (or slant) the entire time until I was completely finished with her twists. I highly recommend parting sections off (about 3 or 4) and parting at an angle the entire time. Finish one section at a time.

These twists took about 6 1/2 hours to do. I used Bee Mine Luscious Moisturizer and Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (I was a little too heavy handed on the EVCO).





You can view a few more mini twist styles on the blog. A's mini twists got wet just about every day. I think that may have led to some of the tangles she had but they were all fairly easy to get out. Keep an eye on the twists near the nape of the neck, those tend to tangle more easily at the roots. I recommend putting the hair up and covering it at night. Overall it was a great experience and we already miss the mini twists! The take down was easy. I just wet her hair and added lots of conditioner, it took 2 1/2 to 3 hours.

• easy transition: Transitioning to college is a great time to transition to natural. I found that it was a lot easier to make the transition from relaxed to natural in a time where most of my life was, well, in transition. College is a time where you establish new parts of your identity, new friends, new interests, etc.

• liberal environment: Depending on your college/university, the environment is generally going to be more liberal than that of a professional workplace. You can wear a funky updo one day, a fro-hawk the next, a twist out on the weekend (etc) without feeling constrained by a more conservative environment.

• support system: If you have one, this can be a tremendous joy. Having other naturals around you for inspiration and support is really great. A natural hair support system is great for product swapping and style ideas, and it's always great to have someone who understands your struggles...misery loves company!

• time to experiment: College is a great time to experiment with different looks. Like I mentioned before, you can wear a variety of styles throughout the week. Your lifestyle in college is usually hectic and all over the place, one day you're at in internship, the next day you're volunteering, the next you're going out with your friends, etc. College is a great time to experiment with versatile styles to suit your versatile lifestyle.

• forgiving of your crazy life: College is about the only time where it's (somewhat) acceptable to wear the same style for three days straight, or throw your hair into a puff in the morning and go. Time is money, especially at school...so if you need to rock with that wash-n-go for a few days or keep your twists under a bonnet during exam times, you can do that.

• living in a dorm: Trying to do your natural hair is one thing, trying to do your natural hair in a communal bathroom is an entirely different story. I'd love to be able to rinse out my deep conditioning treatment in the sink (without having to get back in the shower), or to be able to do a henna without getting the side eye from folks brushing their teeth. What should be a fairly private and personal routine becomes public super quick. Feeling compelled or pressured to explain your hair to people who, uh, don't look like you can be annoying. Being made to feel like a zoo animal is never fun, and it's almost certain to happen living in a dorm.

• being the only one: Depending on what school you go to, being the only one (or one of few) people with natural hair can be really isolating. Getting weird looks and strange questions or comments (from "do you wash your hair?" to "it looks good on you, but I could never do that!) can be exhausting and really annoying. It's awesome to have a support system, and feeling like you don't have anyone to talk to about your natural hair just kinda sucks.
  

• [no] time: This is one of the biggest pains of having natural hair in college. When I so much going on, sometimes a deep conditioning treatment is the last thing on my mind. I can't be bothered with daily styling and maintenance. I literally have to plan when I'm going to do my hair, because if not-- either it or something else won't get done.

• [limited] budget: This can be a pain, but it doesn't have to be. I have those days where I really just want to try a Heutiful steamer, or get a Deva cut...but my wallet won't allow it. It takes a lot of willpower not to spend my on every product I see (though it is tempting!) Finding what products work best for your hair can be an issue when you don't have any money to buy products to try...or running out of a tired and true product and having to wait until you get paid or your parents show mercy on you and help you out...not a good look.

• lack of access to resources: If you live in a College town like mine, finding a salon or a stylist who doesn't scream and run when you walk through the door is a rare privilege. If you don't have a car, finding a way to get to the store to buy your staple products (like conditioner) can be a struggle.
  

One of the more obvious moments during anyone’s natural hair journey is the ability to become inspired by the numerous pictures, blogs and photo logs we stumble upon daily. As the days and years let on, there continues to be ample amounts of visual inspiration across the web. And just as easy it is to ingest all of these gorgeous images…eventually we do find ourselves on the receiving end, becoming our own source of inspiration not only for ourselves but for those around us. This is something that’s not relative to hair length, curl pattern, texture, but more so to do with the best qualities of ourselves we often hide away until someone else plucks it out from obscurity. But what happens when we are away from our keyboards and favorite Tumblr sites, out in the real world encountering fellow naturals? How many of us reserve our best compliments for the face staring in front of the mirror rather than the floods of women we greet on a day to day?

What I’ve found truly remarkable in celebrating another woman’s developing sense of self, is the natural beauty that is also reflected within each of us. In the circle of the natural hair community, we often call this Sisterhood, a camaraderie that can only be nurtured if it is practiced and passed on. While I don’t feel that we are in any danger of losing out on all the perks of belonging to such a valuable circle, it’s great…if not absolutely essential, to have markers along the way reminding us just how valuable our contribution truly is.

There’s a hidden prowess in daring ourselves to speak up and acknowledge the woman standing next to us. For some it might take courage, and with this I say try. Still give a little go when uncertainty still feels a little too familiar, and fear of rejection or *side eyes*silences our ability to speak. There is a great campaign brewing over at Love Brown Sugar where CeCe has tapped into something similar. The challenge is to #UPLIFT those, particularly women, by offering up a smile, a word of encouragement in hopes of squashing this invisible wall some of us build up to ward off negativity or uncertainty.

I encourage you all to stop over, read some of the comments…but also step out into the real world to celebrate, practice and become inspired.

There's a new Benz in my driveway.

Those who know me are aware of how absurd the above statement is.

I've never been much of a 'fancy car' girl. I'm not enlightened, or trying to sound all holier than thou... I have my vices, but cars? Never. I gladly whipped a green Neon (with automatic nothing, and sporadic air conditioning) for much of high school, and was gifted a 2000 Saturn LS when I went off to graduate school. It's now 2011, and the SAT still rolls hard! My only complaint is that the back window is now perpetually open (thanks Syl), and to keep from resorting to duck tape, I just crack the other windows to make it look intentional. It's actually not that bad, save the for occasional spider that wanders in.

Our truck, a 2004 Buick Rainier is in need of a new transmission... and a new radiator... and a new camshaft... and a new air pump... and despite that disgusting diagnosis yesterday and the equally disgusting accompanying bill, I'm still smiling. Why? Because life is short and I've made a concerted effort to stop complaining. Plus, my cousin (also Gia's Godfather) was sweet enough to loan us his car while we wait for ours to be repaired. Enter the 2011 Mercedes C300... with its automatic errything... hot butt, navigation, XM radio, OnStar, gigantor sunroof, and nearly silent start-up. Let me reiterate. I've never been a car girl. Have yet to buy my own car. Never had intentions of buying a 'new' car. But this my dears, this has made me rethink some things!

So if in the near future, you see Ms. CurlyNikki, diamond in the back, sunroof top, diggin' the scene with a gangsta lean... you know it's not for stunting purposes. It was purchased solely for the experience! Touché Nadeira, touché.

Later Gators,
Nik

p.s. As I typed this, mostly with one hand, Boog was banging on the keyboard, mouthing the corner of the screen, and pulling up using my boob and nape hair for leverage. Nice. Oh, and on my way home yesterday I stopped off and bought a bottle of wine. Why? Because my aunt finally came to town after playing me for 3 long weeks ;o)

KeetaRay says;

The twists were done on wet hair after a co-wash so there is major shrinkage. I'm okay with that since I planned on wearing them in updos anyway to protect my ends.
(Feather Earrings were purchased by Candid Art)

Tonya McKay of NaturallyCurly writes;

Propylene glycol is an ingredient found in many personal-care products, including shampoos, hair conditioners, and leave-in styling products. It is widely used because of its relatively low cost and versatile nature. Its inclusion in a formula can fulfill a variety of purposes, which makes it a popular choice by the cosmetics chemist. However, some manufacturers have recently made the decision to no longer include propylene glycol in their products.

My speculation is that this is possibly due to misinformation and propaganda circulated on the Internet, and elsewhere in the interest of marketing “natural” products. I am an avid supporter of using natural products whenever possible. and of avoiding putting toxins into our bodies whenever possible or practical. But I get frustrated by the dissemination of inaccurate and incomplete information in an attempt to frighten consumers into using different products. In this article, I seek to clear up some misconceptions about this chemical.