Curly Nikki | Natural Hair Styles and Curly Hair Care

IndulgenceIsKey via Naturallycurly.com;

I recently received an email asking me if split ends are able to be mended. The short answer is no. To understand why, we first need to understand what split ends are and how they are caused.

What causes split ends?

Split ends occur when the cuticle layer of your hair is damaged or removed. The cuticle layer consists of keratin or dead protein cells that make the shaft strong. These dead protein cells resemble overlapping scales which helps to hold the hair together. Once this has been damaged or removed, the inside layer of hair fibers are exposed and begin to split into two and sometimes three pieces of hair. Split ends don’t always occur at the tip of your hair shaft.

Once the hair begins to split, it cannot be permanently mended. I know there are products out there that provide temporary fixes, but the only way to get rid of split ends is the TRIM the hair at least ? an inch above where the split actually ends.

There are many other factors that can lead to split ends:

1. Improper maintenance which include constant pulling, tugging, brushing, stressing the hair with chemicals, etc.
2. Dryness or lack of moisture
3. The environment (weather, pollution, etc.)
4. Not protecting the ends of your hair
5. Excessive heat from appliances
6. Brushing the hair when it’s wet

Preventing split ends

It’s essential to prevent split ends in order to keep your hair healthy. Try to avoid chemicals such as relaxers, dyes, etc. If your hair is chemically treated, make sure you do not over process the hair as this will lead to split ends and breakage.

Detangle your hair when wet

Avoid using a brush whenever possible, and use a wide tooth comb or your fingers to gently comb your hair.

Keep your hair moisturized

After washing your hair, follow up with a leave-in conditioner and lock in that moisture by sealing your hair with a butter or oil that is compatible with your hair. Moisturize daily if needed.

Protect your hair from the harsh winter winds and cold temperatures by covering it until your get indoors. When there isn’t any moisture in the air, the atmosphere tends to suck all of the moisture from your hair if you don’t protect it. Harsh winds will dry out your hair and ends that can eventually lead to breakage and splits. During the summer months, try using humectants to keep the moisture drawn and locked into your hair. If possible, try wearing protective styles in order to protect your ends from the scorching summer heat.

Minimize the heat from electrical appliances

Try the cool setting on the hair dryer in order to dry the hair. If you must use heat, use the warm temperature setting and try not to blow dry one section of hair for a long period of time. Use short bursts of heat and move around the perimeter of your head constantly. ALWAYS use a thermal heat protectant when using heated electrical appliances.

Deep condition your hair at least once a week

This helps to feed your hair and scalp nutrients that they need in order to stay strong and healthy.
Routine protein treatments have a positive effect on your ends. The treatment helps to keep the hair cuticle in tip top shape. Don’t forget to follow up with a deep conditioning treatment any time you perform a protein treatment.

Trim your ends at least twice a year

This is what works for me. The frequency of trims for your hair can and will differ.

Remember, these are my opinions from my own experiences. Feel free to share any information you might have about split ends.

CN: Were you a long-term or short-term transitioner, and why?
C: I was a short-term transitioner and transitioned for only 2 and 1/2 months! I decided to cut all of my hair off in November of 2009 for a new look with it shaved in the back. I went to a beautician who will remain nameless, who only curled my hair and let unlicensed individuals wash, perm, and color hair. Don’t get me wrong, they did an excellent job, but with this type of treatment, my hair began to thin.

CN: When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair?
C: I big chopped November 12, 2010, and I loved it! I went to celebrate afterward.

CN: How did family and friends react to the new you? What was your response to them?
C: Both loved the new look except for my mother. The very first thing she said was, “Why does it look so scalpy and nappy?” I would just say, “Wow.” Up until 3 months ago, she said, “It just looks nappy to me. Your hair didn’t look like that when you were little.” I told her to touch it and get a good feel so she would realize that my hair is healthier than it has ever been. None of the women in my family know how to do hair. She touched it, and said, “Oh my! It is so soft!” However, she still gives sly remarks especially since my dad asked her to go natural!

CN: What was your transition routine?
C: During my transition, I wore quick weaves because the back of my hair was shaved, and it was all I could do to keep from looking a “hot mess” with natural in the back and perm at the top.

CN: Why did you choose to go natural?
C: Going natural has been one of my best decisions yet! I could never figure out why my hair would never go into its puff anymore nor be curly until one of my close friends schooled me. My hair has never been healthy and has never passed my shoulders. Now it is on its way. I have experienced tremendous growth and healthier hair. It makes me smile and rejoice!

This moisturizing treatment revitalizes hair, leaving it soft and full, strengthening strands and reducing split ends. In a bowl combine:

-1 small jar of full-fat mayonnaise
-1/2 of a ripe or over-ripe avocado

Mash avocado with the back of a wooden spoon until soft and creamy. Mix mayonnaise into avocado until well-blended, and one color throughout. Work with fingers through hair, paying special attention to the ends. Cover head with warm, damp towel for deep conditioning, or put on shower cap. Leave on for 20 minutes, rinse with cold water to help close your hair cuticles, and cut down on frizz.

Growing and maintaining healthy, gorgeous natural hair is not hard. It just requires making a commitment to certain basic health and lifestyle choices. When some women ask me about my hair and styling regimen, it's kinda funny because it sometimes feels like they want me to reveal some super duper top secret tip about what I do to keep my curls looking healthy and full. I always tell them the same basic things I’m about to tell you. Growing healthy and lovely curls is actually quite simple. And honestly there’s no big secret or magic pill. You just have to be patient and follow these 5 tips. Remember, if you love your hair, it will love you back.

1. Eat Healthy
Your hair is a reflection of your body’s internal state. So if you want good stuff on the outside, you can’t put junk on inside. We all know that eating healthy is often easier said than done. So it’s ok if you slip up occasionally. But if you want healthy and gorgeous natural hair, then you are going to have to make sure maintain a relatively healthy diet.

2. Take Vitamins
I wrote a post about this last week, so reference it if necessary. Ultimately, healthy hair needs several nutrients like vitamin C, vitamin B12, iron, biotin, zinc, etc. And the easiest way to get most of these nutrients is by taking a good multivitamin.

3. Regularly Deep Condition
If you want healthy, gorgeous curls then deep conditioning should become like a religion. In addition to regular conditioning, I also deep condition once every 2 weeks. Daily conditioners can work great, but often they often don’t have the capability to really penetrate the hair shaft and repair damage like deep conditioners do.

4. Moisturize Daily
The curlier the hair pattern, the drier hair will be. This is why women, particularly Black women with natural hair should make sure we moisturize our hair daily. Moisturizing is very important because it combats dryness, which will ultimately prevent breakage and damage.

5. Keep Things Low Maintenance
Keep things simple with low maintenance and protective styling. All hair goes through normal wear and tear. But the less stress you put on hair by manipulating it with things like combing and heat styling, the less likely it will incur damage that will cause things like split ends and breakage.

And that’s all folks!

via Naturallycurly.com;

Need to beat the humidity? The lovely ladies of CurlTalk suggest these products to fight it!

• Kinky Curly Curling Custard
• Curls Gel-les’c
• Curl Junkie Curls in a Bottle
• Herbal Essences Set Me Up Gel
• Aveda Brilliant Anti-Humectant Pomade
• Joico JoiGel Firm
• Curly Solutions Curl Keeper
• AG Re:coil
• Ouidad Climate Control Heat & Humidity Gel
• DevaCurl Set It Free

The goal is to prevent moisture from the air getting in and puffing up your curls into a frizzy mess! So you use these gels more like serums... not like you would heavy defining gels.

Check out this article to learn more about humidity and curly hair.

Humidity and dew points have come up quite a bit lately, and instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, I looked to a NaturallyCurly.com legend to break it down for us! RCC's blog Pittsburgh Curly is very informative, she writes:

'The care and maintenance of naturally curly hair is one of my favorite hobbies. I have really enjoyed learning how much of a difference things like ingredients, weather, seasonal changes, and a host of other random quirks affect the way our hair curls. Whether or not we end up with pretty waves, curls, and kinks, or, end up with a head-full of frizz can be a simple matter of one ingredient or a slight change in the humidity.'

RCC is the author of the following article. I hope it helps you to make better product and ingredient decisions no matter the weather!




When many curlies talk about humidity and their hair, they often look at relative humidity. While this makes some sense in a humid summer, it really doesn’t give a clear picture. Once winter hits, it can still be 100% humidity, but your curls will not spring out like they will on a summer day that is 100% humidity.

That is because there is a difference between relative humidity and actual humidity, or how much water really is in the air.

If you want to use humidity to gauge what types of hair products you need, you need to check out your dew point.

Dew point is the temperature at which water will condense and form dew (or fog), hence the name dew point. The catch is that the dew point cannot be higher than the air temperature. If it’s 20 degrees with 100% humidity, the dew point will be 20 or so. If it’s 90 degrees with high humidity, the dew point will often be in the 70’s.

How much water the air can hold all depends on the air temperature. Think of a cold day as a shot glass. It can only hold a little bit of water. Now, think of a hot day as a keg. It can hold a lot more water. So, even if your cold day/shot glass is 100% full of water, it still isn’t that much water compared to a 1/4 full keg/hot day.

What most people consider a “humid” day really means a “high dew point day.” Many people start to feel uncomfortable when the dew point reaches 60 degrees, and at 70 degrees, it feels quite oppressive.

What does this mean for you and your hair? Does all of this meteorological mumbo jumbo really mean anything when it comes to how your curls behave? You betcha!


This can also apply to curlies who live in areas that are low humidity year-round such as the Rocky Mountain and Southwest regions of the US.

Conditioners and humectants will be talked about in this section, and then mentioned in following sections.

I consider a dew point of 30 (-1 C)and lower to be dry. A lot of this is influenced by where I live. I live in an area that has four distinct seasons. For some of you, 30 might be a good day. For others, dry to you will be a dew point of 45 (7 C).

If there isn’t much moisture in the air, there is little for your hair to retain. Like your skin and sinuses, (think of those wintertime frozen boogers!) hair is often drier in the winter. The tight perky curls you had in the humid summer will often take a looser pattern in the winter. That’s fine, and pretty normal. It’s nothing to panic over. But, if you totally lose your curl pattern and see a bunch of flyaway static-like poofy frizz, there are things you can do.

If appropriate, get a humidifier. I have a plug-in one that I use so my nose isn’t super dry, and it seems to help with my hair too.

Conditioners. You will need richer, thicker conditioners in the winter than you did in the summer. You will probably also have to condition more often. I prefer heavier conditioners with things like shea butter. Look for conditioners made for dry hair, or those that claim to be thick and rich. I’m a big fan of Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose and White Camellia conditioners this time of year. Do be careful not to over-condition, but do condition enough so that your hair isn’t ending up being a static poofball.

Humectants. A boon to curls in the spring and summer, a bane to them in winter. This article by Curl Chemist Tonya McKay will give you a much better explanation of the role of humectants and humidity than I ever could. The main thing is that you need to avoid humectants in dry weather conditions as much as possible. While someone in Boston may only have to avoid them in the winter, someone in Utah may have to avoid them most of the year.

To quote a part of the article:

In extremely low-humidity conditions, such as a cold, dry winter air, there is no appreciable amount of water in the air for the humectant to attract to the surface of the hair. In this particular type of climate, the best one can hope for with most traditional humectants is for them to prevent evaporation of water from the hair into the environment. Also, under these circumstances, there is some risk of the humectant actually removing moisture from the cortex of the hair itself, creating the problem it was intended to prevent.

The main humectants one sees in hair care products are glycerin, honey, propylene glycol, and panthenol/vitamin B5. If you can avoid most of them (which can be difficult) you’ll do a lot to help keep moisture in your hair. The Aubrey conditioner mentioned above is humectant free, as are others. This is one of those annoying ingredient issues that requires lots of label reading time. Hair gels often contain humectants, which is why they work so well in the summer. You can switch to a curl cream if that works better for you, or use your gel over a leave-in conditioner to see if the conditioner will be enough of a buffer between your hair and the hemectants of the gel.

Leave-in conditioner. If you don’t use a leave-in any other time of the year, you way want to consider one in the winter. A leave-in can add an extra layer of protective moisture to your hair. Just look for one without humectants!


I consider the 30-40 (-1 to 4 C)degree dew point range to be the in between area. It’s not super dry, but it isn’t comfortably moist either. I have noticed lot of variance in what other curlies like in this range. Some do best with a modified low dew point routine such as still using moisture but adding small amounts of humectants. Others keep a low dew point routine, and some use a routine that also fits the comfortably moist range by using a balance of moisture and humectans that works with your hair’s texture and porosity. It is hard to give recommendations that work for all in this range as this seems to be the range that most have a hard time with. In places with four seasons, you see this range a lot in the seasonal transition from winter to spring and from early to late fall.

The 40-60 (4 to 16 C) degree range seems to be a happy haven for most curlies. There is enough humidity to keep curl formation, but no so much that you get the big giant frizz. Depending on your hair type, a good balance of moisture and humectants works here. While there are differences between the lower and upper ranges, the range itself is comfortable for many.


Many people notice that it feels sticky once the dew point hits 60 (16C ), and most will feel it when it reaches 65 (18C). At 70 (21C) and over, it is quite uncomfortable. This is the range when people call it a humid day.

At this point, many curlies will put away the thick rich conditioners they used in winter or drier times, or, they may just use them less frequently. Some skip using a leave in conditioner. I have porous hair, and I still like a leave in during the sticky months because it does seem to help keep the cuticle tamed a bit. You can play around with this to see what works best for you. I’m having wonderful luck with Curl Junkie Curl Rehab as a leave-in in various dew points. Other might prefer this in the moderate to dry range only.

Some of you, especially those with porous hair may notice a backlash from humectant use. The products that controlled your curls in more temperate dew points may cause you to get the cotton candy look in the summer. Those of you who get humectant induced frizz in the summer many want to look into anti-humectants to help keep the moisture out of you hair. Others resort to hard hold type gels along with their regular routine. I seem to have a preference for polymers like PVA/PVP in high dew point conditions. It sort of locks the curl down for me.

For those of you who, like me, are absolute heat wimps, updos are an option too. I tend to put my hair up a good deal in July and August because it just gets too uncomfortable to wear it down all of the time. I tend to put the anti-humectant properties of pomades to good use then also as they help keep my updos in place. Right now I am a big fan of the Kinky Curly Gloss Pomade that I can pick up at my local Whole Foods.


If you want an easy way to check you local dew point, plug in you zip code into the Weather Channel search bar on the top of their page. The results will show you the dew point right below the pressure. Or, if you want an hourly estimation of what the dew points will be like for you that day, plug in your location on Weather Underground. This is really good for those of you who live in variable climates where you have quick changes during the day or from day to day.

I, along with No-Poo Jillipoo and Colorado Curly being the hair science geeks that we are, talked about it enough that there is a simple, if theoretical, temperature chart. bear in mind that this is what seems to work for me and my area. While the guidelines are also helpful for many others, they are merely guidelines. Use this info and tailor it to your individual needs.

• Dew point below 15F (-9C) – very dry. Use as much moisture and emollients as you hair can handle without overconditioning. Many will have to expect a looser curl pattern at this point. For those who like to occasionally straighten their hair, this is a good time for it since you may have less curl to fight. Humectant use may need to be cut out entirely or severely limited.

• Dew point 15-30F (-9 to -1C) – Dry, add moisture and emollients. Limit or cut out humectants.

• Between 30-40F (-1 to 4C)can be iffy. Some people can tolerate more humectants. Other cannot. Very trial and error in this range.

• Between 40-60F (4 to 16C). Prime curly range. You should get some curl without that summer frizz. Find a balance between moisture and humectants that works for you.

• Dew point 60F (16C) and up. You need to find a moisture/humectant tolerance that works for you. Some of you will be able to tolerate humectants. Those of you with more porous hair may start to see humectant induced frizz at this range, and especially so once the dew point hits 70. Those who get humectant induced frizz may want to look into anti-humectants to keep that muggy weather out of your hair.
  

There were countless moments growing up that helped define me as a woman today, in fact I’m still learning from those lessons, many of them found in my mother’s kitchen as she struggled to run a comb through my massive fro, or in between her legs at night as she attentively greased my scalp. The process is often slow, but as a young black girl I understood the ‘different’ so many people saw in me. I understood it as something to be changed or outgrown once I was of age to make decisions on how to improve my appearance, whether it was to attract men, friends or other loved ones. I was never given instructions on how to accentuate my full lips, thick mane or soon growing hips. Instead, I was quietly taught to hide & remain ashamed of what set me apart from the images propagating my life. How does the saying go?

“When you know better, You do better”

As a grown woman, it’s hard to say how I overcame those feelings; in fact it’s safer to say that I used those experiences to better understand the necessity of overcoming that type of fear. The fear of being different, of feeling beautiful is something that’s still infiltrating our lives, even the lives of our children. How do you learn to experience something that’s often a reward from society? From my young understanding, only the beautiful were rewarded with more money, more LOVE, more of the benefits of a good life. It seems the only danger in hearing such false ideas, is to inherently believe in them and to allow them to seep into our sense of self. Perhaps it’s the fear of embracing an idea we knowingly deserve, & how that would feel to no longer yearn for something we were taught was beyond our scope.

Here’s some truth. There is nothing narcissistic or self-involved about reminding ourselves of how beautiful we all are. Nothing. Being beautiful, different, does not have to mean standing alone. What it can mean is standing correct, together with others who share that same energy, on your own path, nurturing & following your own journey. This is my belief, and one that I stand more firm on that any other growing principle in my life.

The art of beauty, of discovering the way it leans into our everyday lives when we least expect it, is something I’ve admired over the years while watching the natural hair community grow and flourish. Community, the essence & purpose of it is beautiful.

I believe our beauty is tangible, attainable, undeniable, REAL & quite possible in all our lives once we understand its purpose, its strength. We see it so often in nature, but the essence of beauty does not stand still or remain languid somewhere in the shadows, rather it moves with grace & determination. I see it here on this site, each week as I care for my Fro, and across so many cities now hosting natural hair events, on social networking platforms posting, sharing, inspiring others to not feel as if they are alone. We even saw it as our spirits were lifted with the I Love My Hair video a several months ago. What I read in the following weeks on blogs and on the lips of so many mothers, was nothing short of hope & the love that’s often the direct result of uncovering such an important message.

Today, I actively seek out inspiration rather than waiting, anticipating for it to walk through my life at the last minute. I keep it on hand almost as daily sustenance to make sure I’m well, functioning & able to be a better me. Women inspire me, artists, men, children, friends, family…even those who are no longer in my life. I know for many of us there is nothing more hurtful coming across disparaging reports similar to last week’s article in “Psychology Today.” Then again we all have the power to change & form our own lives. I implore you, all of us… to seek out your source, embrace your ‘different,’ and share that with the world. Beauty can be found anywhere; because it is its own purpose, it is noncommercial, readily available…it is everywhere.

CN: How long have you been natural?
Currently, two years and nine months. However, prior to college, I had never had a relaxer. I would wash and straighten quite frequently, but caved to peer pressure and was influenced by others to start relaxing my hair.

CN: Were you a long term or short term transitioner, and why?
Long term. I stopped perming after two years, and never did the big chop. I utilized lots of protective styles and gradually cut off the relaxed ends.


CN: What is your current regimen?
I really love bantu knot-outs, wash & gos, and buns. My favorite style is to rock it big with the sides pinned back. Right now I'm loving and religiously using Shea Moisture products. Occasionally I'll use Miss Jessies Curling Custard or Eco Olive Oil Gel. I also take a multi vitamin by Natures Valley that encourages healthy hair and blood circulation.

CN: Night time routine?
I moisturize if needed, add a small amount of water to my hair, bantu knot if that is the desired style for the morning, and don a satin scarf to cover my head.

CN: What would you tell a new natural, or transitioning diva?
Always believe in you! Do what makes you happy, and know that the process doesn't end when you reach the completely natural state... it is just beginning. Keep the hairstyles varied, and don't be afraid to try new things. Everyone will not like your choice but you must have enough confidence to tell them thanks for your opinion but not be halted by their comments. Know what may look great on someone, could not be the best for you, this is something you have to realize and make the best decisions based on your facial structure and overall lifestyle.

CN: What's the best thing about being naturally glamorous?
The versatility! Whatever fashion I may choose for the day, my hair flows right along with it.

Look out Florida 'cause Boog and I are finna paint the town... what color is henna? ;)

I'll be attending Premiere Orlando and figured I could take the opportunity to meet the beautiful, sun kissed Florida curlies. So bring Momma, Aunty, your sister, cousin... everybody out to celebrate the beauty of natural hair.

Sponsored by the one and only Mizani, it'll be very reminiscent of the ATL Meetup, with an upscale feel, gift bags, appetizers, drinks, and lots of lots of hair talk. Oh, and of course, no entrance fee!

via Naturallycurly.com;

Most of us know you can buy 2-3 ounce, empty bottles for your favorite cleanser, conditioner, or lotion for traveling. But you don’t want to just toss them in your bags, zip up and go.

Here are 4 quick air travel tips for keeping products in their bottles and out of the rest of your luggage.

1. Don’t fill bottles

Leave some headspace in the bottles for expansion and buildup of pressure.

2. Secure pumps

Press pump caps all the way down and twist to lock the pump.

3. Tape caps

Tape caps down with masking tape to keep them from popping open.

4. Label & bag

Finally, label your bottles and put them in zippered plastic bags to prevent leakage and confusion.

Kara asks;

Do you remember your first hair crush? Who was the first man or woman to make you drool over his/her texture, sheen, or swagger? Who was it that made you want to embrace what nature gave you?

Hola chicas!

It's that time again! The images below are of CN readers at their flyyest...at work, on the town, and with the fam. Showing us all that natural hair is not a fad, it's a way of life...an extension of our beauty! Click on the images to enlarge them:

After watching the Dark Girls (Preview) video, I felt compelled to share a personal experience. I don't usually get this personal, but I felt it on my spirit to share. If you take the time to read it, thank you.


Growing up, I was fortunate enough to have friends with significant financial resources—significant meaning enough to take me along on family vacations and outings that I, otherwise, would have never been able to experience. These friends (all white) took me on all-expense paid vacations to ski resorts, Disney World, the mountains, and of course, the most daunting of them all: the beach. I learned to swim when I was three, I didn't mind the sand, and I loved the ocean…but my biggest fear in going to the beach was being out in the sun for too long. I prepared for these trips for days. I lathered myself in the highest SPF sunscreen, wore long-sleeved t-shirts over my bathing suit and covered my legs in towels during any out-of-water moment, no matter how brief. I sat in agony, greasy and melting, watching my complexionally blessed friends tan in the sun-- horrified at the fact that, despite my efforts, I was getting darker by the second. For my white friends, bronzing in the sun with no worries but the occasional freckle was a privilege, one that I simultaneously wanted and despised. This went on for years. When I got to college, I started learning more about my connection to the African diaspora and began to really discovering the truth of my ancestry. (My parents made sure that my sister and I knew from where we came, but it wasn’t until I explored it for myself that I really started to understand what my ancestry really meant.)

I look back on those days now with a heavy heart. I wish I knew then what I knew now: that my skin is a reflection of my connection to a powerful and unchanging past, that my beautiful brown is nothing to be ashamed of, and that my skin is perfectly fine the way it is, even (and especially) in the sun, when I turn a ripe shade of mahogany brown. Back then, I didn’t fully understand the implications of what I was doing. I didn’t see that hiding from the sun was really just a way of hiding from myself, and that covering up my body to avoid getting darker was masking something much, much deeper inside of myself. It was an act of self-hate, one that was fueled and driven by a force too big for me to conceptualize at the time.

Today when I go to the beach, I lay out just as long as I please, admiring my sun-kissed skin and letting the warmth of the sun fill me whole. My skin is a reminder of resilience, of strength, of freedom, of legacy, of something much bigger than myself...something I hope to pass on to my daughters, no matter what color they are. My younger me asks my current me for forgiveness, and I wish myself upon the sands of my childhood-- as bare as public law will allow, soaking up every glorious ray of light the world has to offer.

via Naturallycurly;

Papaya is rich in vitamins, minerals and enzymes that help nourish hair, remove unwanted residues, and add shine and softness. Here’s how to get healthy hair with a raw papaya hair treatment.

1. Puree half a papaya with some olive oil (amount of oil depends on how dry your hair is) and a teaspoon of honey.
2. Apply to damp hair and leave on as long as you like.
3. Rinse, then shampoo out excess oil if necessary.

CN: When did you BC? What was your initial reaction to your natural hair? How do you feel now?
R: April 9, 2011 was the day that I chopped it off. I was actually planning on doing my BC in September. However, the day I BC’d, I had just finished washing my hair, started blow drying it, and became so frustrated dealing with the two textures. I decided I was done. When I arrived at the hair salon, my stylist tried to talk me out of it for about 20 minutes. I was almost convinced to get a bob cut instead of cutting off all of it. I thought I would have to go to a different hair salon, but she came around and did it. There was no reaction from me after my stylist cut it. All I thought was, “Phew, I finally did it!” I felt relieved. I wasn’t nervous at all. I was very pleased with the outcome. I’ve never seen my hair shorter than below my bra strap. It went from about 13 inches to 2 inches in one day! So it was a big shock for me, my stylist, and everyone. However, I love my TWA!!!

CN: What was your staple hair style during the transition?
R: I pretty much stuck with getting sew-ins or kept the majority of my hair braided in some style. I would get a sew-in for a month or 2. Then, I would take it out and get my hair braided in a style for a couple of weeks. After that, I’d go back to my sew-in. I went back and forth. It was easier for me that way because it became very difficult for me to style and keep the 2 textures of hair working together. I avoided even having to touch my own hair as far as styling it goes.

CN: How did family and friends react to the new you? What was your response to them?
R: My family and friends were extremely shocked but very supportive. They responded well to the change. I didn’t receive as much negative feedback as I expected from my family and friends. The first thing my boyfriend did was run to the beauty supply store to buy my first pik ever! Some people said I was cutting off what is paid for by a lot of people. For me, their opinions didn’t matter. I know I made the right decision for me.

CN: What are your plans for your hair?
R: I plan to grow my hair out naturally. I’m 25, and my hair has been permed for as long as I can remember. So I plan to just grow it back out naturally and enjoy getting to know my real hair all over again.

CN: Do you find it necessary to 'doll up' your look to feel more feminine?
R: I don’t find it necessary to “doll-up” anymore than I did prior to cutting my hair. I was always into makeup, but I didn’t go beyond my normal routine after I cut my hair. I don’t find it necessary to over accessorize and wear tons of makeup just to prove I’m feminine.

CN: As far as products, what do you use?
R: To keep it moisturized, I usually use Carol’s Daughter Healthy Hair Butter. Once a week, I do a hot oil treatment with the Tui Hair Oil, also by Carol’s Daughter. I like to keep it simple. I use the co-wash method about 2-3 times per week. Right now, I still like the conditioner I used to use with my relaxed hair which is Organic Root Stimulator, Olive Oil. It keeps my hair looking healthy. I haven’t really found a “natural” conditioner that I like for my co-washing. Once a week, I do a full wash with shampoo. I really like the Rose Mint Shampoo by Carol’s Daughter.

CN: How do you achieve definition?
R: I definitely haven’t mastered it. Usually I will wet my hair in the shower or with a setting spray and just use my Carol’s Daughter Hair Milk and a tiny bit of gel which is usually Eco Styler. Water is the most important staple hair product for me because once my hair is wet, the curls come out without anything else. I just use the gel/milk to keep them intact once it dries.

CN: How do you preserve your curls at night?
R: I have yet to discover a way that works for me. Hopefully, as my hair gets longer, I’ll be able to do a twist-out. I am researching a lot and just starting to learn what will work for me in the future. I think the next product I will try will be Miss Jessie’s.

CN: What do you love most about being natural?
R: Right now, I love the wash-and-go with my TWA. I can’t wait until it gets longer so I can have a puff! Being natural gave me a whole new excuse to reinvent myself and my style. I’m always out looking for a new bow to accent my TWA. This process has been exciting for me, and it’s only just beginning.

Transitioning from chemical or heat-styled hair to a mane full of kinks and curls can be a daunting journey. Especially when you are searching for the right professional to help you in the process. A friend of mine truly doesn’t even know her real hair texture as she has had a perm for the majority of her life! Folks like her can be challenged with style options and choices when it comes to styling their natural hair.

Before you jump into the hands of a “natural” hair stylist, be sure to do your due diligence and make sure your stylist has the credentials to really take care of your hair before showing you how to become re-acquainted with it.

Here are a few questions you should ask a potential stylist during an initial consultation:

• How long have you been natural? - Don’t let your stylist fake the funk. While pressed and permed stylists can have the skills to play the natural hair frills, it’s always best to go with your own kind. What better stylist to have taking are of your hair but one that has been taking care of their natural hair for a few years? As a natural OBV, I know that this process is a journey with ups, downs, questions, experiments and a whole lot of confusion. A natural hair stylist that has gone through that journey can provide better answers, advice and solutions for you as you travel down this path.

• Do you use natural and/or organic products? – What’s the point of going natural if you’re still going to lather your hair with chemicals and toxins? Your natural hair stylist should be up on the organic game with great product suggestions, in-depth product knowledge and a database of information related to some of the best brands of natural hair products for your hair texture. I’m a sucker for someone that knows their products. Your stylist is the person that will recommend the best shampoos, conditioners, oils, sheens, etc, for your hair so make sure that they appear to be well versed in this area.

• Are you licensed? - While many natural hairstylist don’t have to be licensed, it’s always a relief to know if your stylist has gone through cosmetology school, has been trained in different hair textures and can do everything from color to heat-styled looks. They’ve made a conscious decision to turn to natural hair. Also, find out how committed they are to this field and ask if they continue to take courses on natural hair. A stylist that invests in learning new techniques and trends is a great one to stick with!

• Can I see your portfolio? – Can they really do some hair? I can throw in some cornrows and put a flower on an afro in a minute, but that doesn’t make me talented. Check out your stylists’ portfolio to see their style, creativity and innovation. Even if you are simple with your look, it’s always great to know that you have someone on your team that can develop a great image with your hair and give you new, sexy or chic looks without hesitation.

• How many returning clients do you have? - This question is really the ringer. They’re natural. Check. They use natural products. Check. They are licensed. Check. They can create some slammin’ looks. Check. The interrogation process is coming to a close but the most important question out of all of these is how many satisfied clients do they have? Are they difficult to work with? Do they constantly double book? Are they always late? Are they unprofessional? Your hairstylist is almost your new spouse. You want to make sure you are creating a healthy relationship that helps you to become a better you. Beware of potential fatal attractions. If you can, speak with some of their clients for the dish on what it’s like to work with them. After all, you are spending your hard earned money. Don’t throw it away with someone you may not be able to trust!

For a list of natural hair salons in your area, check out our directory here.

Do you have a fabulous natural hair stylist that has helped you take care of your natural hair like none other? Please share your experience on how the relationship began!

Sherrell Dorsey is a natural beauty expert, writer, speaker and advocate of health, wellness and sustainability in communities of color. In addition to creating OrganicBeautyVixen.com, Sherrell writes beauty articles for Tyra Banks's beauty and fashion site TypeF.com, Jones Magazine, MySalonScoop.com and Posh Beauty. Follow Sherrell on twitter at www.twitter.com/organicvixen and connect with her on facebook at http://www.facebook.com/OBVMedia.

This colorful and delicious recipe takes about twenty minutes to make and pairs great with low fat goat cheese (optional). In addition to being low calorie, low sodium, and low in cholesterol, this recipe offers up about 200% of the daily recommended value of vitamin C. This recipe can be used as a recipe for lunch or a side dish for dinner.

INGREDIENTS

* 4 bell peppers, (mixed colors), halved, seeded and stemmed
* 1/4 cup halved and pitted oil-cured black olives
* 1/4 cup rinsed and chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes
* 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
* 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
* 1/8 teaspoon salt

DIRECTIONS:

*Grill peppers on medium-high heat, turning once, until soft and charred in spots, about five minutes per side. When cool enough to handle, chop peppers. Toss with olives, sun-dried tomatoes, oil, vinegar, and salt in a large bowl.

NUTRITION:

Per serving (1 cup): 107 calories; 7g fat (1g sat, 3 g mono); 0 mg cholesterol; 10 g carbohydrates; 0 g added sugars; 1 g protein; 2 g fiber; 330 mg sodium; 331 mg potassium.

Summer is fast approaching as well as vacations and family reunions. For some of us business trips are a year round collateral duty. It's easy to let a vacation or business trip throw you off your fitness schedule or eating habits and leave you feeling guilty upon your return. Honestly, it doesn't have to be this way. With a bit of research and proper planning, you can create an easy-to-follow plan to keep you fit and healthy no matter how far you travel, and you can come home guilt free, feeling more healthy and energized than when you left.

Let me first put this out there: there is no excuse for not finding places to exercise when every city or small town has a stadium or tall buildings. This can be your stair master substituted without the machine. If you're in a multi-level hotel you can even use the hotel's stairwell to get a good workout. If stairs aren't your thing there are bound to be places to go for walking, running or even hiking. Ask the hotel concierge if there are parks or trails near. If you're completely against going out in a strange town then prior to departure try finding a hotel with a workout facility or a pool. If you can't find one then look for hotels that are affiliated with a local gym where you can get a one-day pass for a small fee.

If the hotel doesn't offer fitness accommodations, there are things that can fit right in your suitcase, without taking up a ton of room, that will still give you a good workout. Jump ropes, resistance bands, towels all can fit right in your suitcase. Jumping rope is one of the best forms of cardiovascular exercise and you can do it anywhere, just be mindful of those around you. Resistance bands can keep your entire body toned and energized without entering a gym or stepping on a piece of exercise equipment. Numerous magazines and websites offer workout instructions fore each body part. If you don't like the idea of having to pack extra props, well then there's you. Body-weight exercises such as push ups and crunches require no equipment at all. The point is to find a workout routine that suits your needs and follow it. Plan a specific time every single day or every other day to do your strengthening and cardiovascular routines. Remember that 20 to 60 minutes you spend workout each day is for you, and try to stay on schedule. Like always, consistency is key.

Finally, have fun! Enjoy yourself and make the most of the area to which you have traveled. Don't forget to bring comfortable shoes so you can easily sneak in a workout while using your feet as your main mode of transportation. Vacation or business trip, you should always remember to save some time for yourself every day. What better way to do something good for yourself than improving your health and making yourself feel better?

Quick Nutrition Road Tips:

1. Always drink plenty of water, especially when flying.
2. Before entering a restaurant, imagine a healthy meal and try to stick with that image as closely as possible.
3. Eat at least three times per day to prevent feeling famished and over eating at any one time.
4. Pick up portable, healthy snacks at a local market so you won't be caught hungry in front of the mini-bar, or local fast food joint.
5. Go ahead and splurge on regional dishes or local cuisine, but remember to balance your diet by choosing lower-calorie foods at other meals.

Resources: Schlosberg, S (2002) Fitness for Travelers: The Ultimate Workout Guide for the Road. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Books.

Until next week...
KinkySheaPT

The most amazing things about life are the adventures we go on — the ones we embark upon and the ones that carry us away, without consultation, and leave us somewhere we hadn’t planned on being, yet still appreciate. It happens all the time, and the journeys can be internal or external.

Right now, I’m on such a journey. A spontaneous visit to my favorite bookstore in the city led me to a book called Why Forgive? that I picked up to gift a friend. Sometimes, we choose books, and sometimes, books choose us; this book chose me, and I’m so very grateful it did.

On my commute home, I began reading it and was almost immediately touched. It’s impossible to read and not get a bit emotional. Since my contact with Why Forgive?, I’ve been on a forgiveness spree. It dominates my thoughts. I’ve been letting go of grievances both large and small and exercising more empathy. We’ve all hurt others. We’ve all inflicted wounds and caused unintended damage.

Why forgive?

• Because it frees you of your present anger about past incidents.
• Because not forgiving punishes you more than the person you’re holding your grudge against.
• Because it lightens your spirit and puts you on the path to peace.
• Because it allows you to enjoy life more. You can’t be happy harping over grievances…or guilt.
• Because you need to be forgiven.
• Because you get what you give.
• Because people make mistakes, even obvious and big. No one is always who they want to be.

It’s not always easy and it definitely happens in its own time. It is a process, not a single occurrence, and it does require effort. For me, there’s been a bit of a domino effect. Forgiving one person has led to me beginning to forgive others, including myself. I’ve been acknowledging the pain I’ve caused others and stopped beating myself up about my regrets. What’s done is done, but what I can do right now is be a better and bigger person. It’s a tall order, but I’m up to it.

Instead of letting this world callous me, I choose to soften my heart. I hope you do, too.

—
The publisher offers Why Forgive? as a free ebook here.

Is forgiveness an easy thing for you? Share!

Susonnah Gonzalez of Naturallycurly.com writes;

Water temperature is probably not the first thing you think about when it comes to hair care. If you’re anything like me, you probably hop in the shower and blast that hot water because it feels so good! But after doing some research on the effect of hot and cold water on the hair, you might want to think twice about which way you turn the dial. Here are some tips on how to wash your hair with both hot and cold water.

Hot Water

PRO: Rinses Away Dirt and Oil

Hot water and steam naturally open the pores, which is great for exfoliating and removing the oil from your skin. If you have a very oily scalp, washing with hot water can be beneficial. Warm water allows the dirt and hair product that has accumulated on your scalp to escape the pores and be rinsed away. It’s especially important to cleanse your hair of all hair products for your next styling. Overall, warm water might be more beneficial for washing your hair.

CON: May Result in Overly Porous Hair

Aforementioned, hot water opens up the pores and the cuticle of your hair shaft. That being said, rinsing your hair with hot water too often can leave the hair overly porous, causing it to be dry and brittle. Unfortunately, hot water seems to be a double-edged sword. Just as hot water helps to rinse away oil and dirt, it also strips your hair of its natural oils. The sebaceous glands in your skin produce natural oils called “sebum” that are essential for your hair’s health. Sebum gives the hair shine and strength, both of which are vital for beautiful hair.

CON: Causes Frizz

Heat causes frizzy hair, and hot water is no exception. No matter what your hair type, the hair needs moisture to stay frizz free. Because hot water can strip the hair of natural oils, moisture escapes the hair shaft and results in frizz. If your hair is especially prone to frizz, you might want to turn off the hot water.


Cold Water

PRO: Seals the Moisture in Your Hair

Just the opposite of hot water, cold water closes the pores and prevents dirt from entering and accumulating on the scalp. Not only does it close the pores, it also closes the hair cuticle, sealing in moisture from the conditioner that you applied to your hair. Whereas hot water can remove the moisture from your hair, cold water retains the moisture and the natural sebum that’s so beneficial. Don’t forget, more moisture means less frizz. Cold water retains your hair’s moisture, leaving your hair less prone to frizz.

PRO: Increases Shine

Sometimes stylists like to finish blow drying with a blast of cold air because it leaves the hair shiny. The same concept can be applied to a cold water rinse. Cold water is known to smooth the hair by closing the scales of your hair cuticle, which in turn prevents frizz and adds luster to your locks.

CON: Flattens Hair

Because cold water leaves the hair smooth, it can also flatten your hair if you have a naturally thin texture. If your hair lacks in volume, or if you live in a particularly arid environment, rinsing your hair with cold water might result in flat hair and curls with no bounce.

So What’s A Girl to Do?

Alright, so what’s the final verdict on how to wash your hair? Hot water is better for rinsing hair of dirt and grease, but it dries the strands. Cold water, on the other hand, adds shine, seals in moisture, and prevents frizz. The solution? CurlyNikki advises that you use both:

1. Cleanse, condition, and detangle your hair with WARM water, not hot. You don’t want to burn your skin and your scalp.
2. When you’re ready to rinse out the conditioner, turn the dial to COOL and run it over your hair for a final rinse.

If you’re the type of person who just can’t stand using cold water in the shower, but feel that cold water is best for your hair, try using a shower cap during your warm daily showers. When it’s time to wash your hair, sit on the tub and rinse your hair beneath the faucet of cold water. Your hair can still reap the benefits without you having to shiver in the shower.

Did you notice a difference? If you’ve tried rinsing with cold water, we’d love to hear about your results!

CN: Are you a long-term or short-term transitioner? When do you plan to BC?
M: I'm a long-term transitioner. My last perm was in July 2009. I have been without a perm for a year and 7 months. I decided to become a long-term transitioner because I have always had long hair and did not want to completely do the BIG CHOP! I have had the majority of my permed ends cut off in the process, and I call those the medium chops. I have had about 5! I'm almost completely down to no perm. My hair has been growing relatively fast.

I did not BC and probably never will. However, I have cut off a lot of the permed hair which I call medium chops! I ask my stylist to cut off some of my ends about every 2-3 months. My reaction to my natural hair is that I love it. The texture is so great! I will keep chopping the ends until my permed hair is fully gone. Since I have done mini-chops, I will most likely cut off the rest of the permed ends this summer!

CN: How did family and friends react to your decision to transition to natural?
M: My mom is always saying, "So you still don't have a perm? Wow! Your hair looks amazing!" My hair looks so much healthier without a perm! I found a stylist that specializes in natural hair, and she has helped me with my natural hair journey. My boyfriend is really encouraging. He started his lock journey about two years ago. My friends love my hair. They still can’t believe I'm almost all natural! My sister is thinking about going natural. She always looks at my hair, and says, "So, still no perm." I smile, and say, “Yep! No perm over here! Stay off that "creamy crack"!”

CN: What is your transition routine?
M: My transition routine consists of going to my stylist every two weeks and experimenting myself. I am very busy most of the time. I work and go to graduate school part time. So, I don't like to mess with my hair a lot, but recently I have been braver in experimenting with my own hair! I do love going to my hairstylist! She is doing a great job helping my hair with its natural journey! She is one of the best stylists in Chicago!

Most of the time, I get my hair blown out straight. I recently started getting a twist-out! I love this style! It’s so manageable! I love wearing my hair twisted, and when I take them down the kinks/curls are beautiful. My stylist uses Mizani hair products on my hair. When I do wash it, I use Mizani also. I have used Miss Jessie's Curling Meringue to style my hair and will be trying Design Essentials products which my stylist has used on my twists. After I wash my hair, I twist it. I also wear it in a high bun. I want to try kinky curly on my hair next!

CN: What are your staple hair styles?
M: My staple hairstyles have been blowouts and straightening my hair. I love twist-outs too! I think the twist-out is my summer style. I like the versatility of my hair. I like wearing it curly and wearing it straight. I love not having a relaxer. My hair is so much healthier without it. I felt free to experiment and try different styles with my hair!

CN: How do you moisturize your hair to prevent breakage at the new growth line?
M: My stylist uses great products to make sure my hair is staying moisturized! She uses Mizani products, Keracare, and Jane Carter Nourish and Shine. I make sure to deep condition my hair when I wash it. I use shea butter on my ends. I'm still learning and experimenting with different conditioners that work best for my hair. I have been reading a lot of blogs, especially curlynikki.com, for pointers and different techniques.

CN: Why did you choose to go natural?
M: I chose to go natural because I was tired of my hair not growing and always breaking off. It seemed like with a perm, my hair was always the same length. I would get a perm, and my hair would feel dry and unhealthy. When I went away to college, my hair really broke off because I was doing the perms myself and not taking care of my hair like I should have been. So recently, I decided that it was time for a change. Since I have not had a perm, my hair has grown a lot, and I love it! It’s softer and more manageable! I am happy that I found this website, and it has helped me a lot! I wanted my natural curl pattern back and my curly thick long hair! I love it. I will never perm my hair again! It feels so much better without chemicals! Natural hair is so beautiful, and I love every bit of it! Thank you CN!

What is a tea rinse?

A tea rinse is done by pouring a cup of tea, commonly green or black, over the hair to reduce shedding or stimulate hair growth.

How is it supposed to work?

The caffeine in the tea penetrates the hair follicles.

Is there any proof that tea rinses make hair grow faster or reduce shedding?

One scientific study shows that caffeine can stimulate hair growth when used in tiny amounts (0.001% caffeine in water). The same study also found that applying too much caffeine to the hair follicles can actually stunt growth. A different study found that caffeine in shampoo can penetrate the hair follicles when left on for 2 minutes. Both studies were done on the hair follicles of men with androgenetic alopecia. So, no scientific studies have been done to test the effects of caffeine on a woman’s scalp who doesn’t have a hair loss disorder. Generally, the current evidence says that caffeine definitely penetrates hair follicles and may stimulate hair growth, but no one knows for sure. It’s impossible to say how much additional growth you might see, if any. Don’t expect more than an inch or two per year. There are no published scientific studies on caffeine and shedding.

How do I do a tea rinse?

1. Before you prepare for your shower, brew a weak cup of green or white tea. Black tea has higher caffeine content, so it’s not a good choice. You don’t want to make the tea too strong or you could do more harm than good. Try brewing 1 tea bag for only 1 or 2 minutes.

2. Cool the tea down to lukewarm.

3. Use a color applicator bottle or spray bottle to apply the tea to your scalp.

4. Leave it on for at least 5 minutes and up to 30 minutes. There’s no way to tell how long would
be best.

5. Shampoo and condition as usual.

6. Repeat the tea rinse 2 or 3 times a week. If you don’t see any results after 1-2 months it’s best to spend your efforts somewhere else.

7. You can also experiment with using tea to stimulate eyebrow growth. Follow the same steps as above and watch to see if the hair grows thicker or more quickly.

Since there’s a risk of using too much caffeine during a tea rinse, it may be best to try a caffeine-containing shampoo for a few months instead. Thicker Fuller Hair, Alpecin, and DS Laboratories are popular brands. As always, be careful not to experiment with DIY treatments so much that you end up over-manipulating your hair. In the quest for healthy hair, length retention is usually more of a problem than growth rate or shedding.