Curly Nikki | Natural Hair Styles and Curly Hair Care

via The BeautyBrains

Are you curious about cosmetic ingredients? Every product sold in the United States is required to put a listing of the ingredients they use but do you ever wonder what those chemicals are? I know I did. During my college days I would read the ingredients on the shampoo bottle and wonder, what are these chemicals? To find out used to require a trip to the local library, a copy of the CTFA Dictionary and a degree in chemistry. But no longer!

Here are 7 FREE websites that list information about cosmetic ingredients. Some of them are searchable (just type in the ingredient name) while others are listed alphabetically. If you’re curious about an ingredient, just look it up. Then if you still have questions, be sure to get it to us by clicking on the button to Ask the Brains.

Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionaries

INCI Directory by Special 4 Chemists – The most thorough list of cosmetic ingredients without consulting the “official” INCI Dictionary. Geared more towards cosmetic formulators than consumers.

Cosmetics Info – The cosmetic industry’s compilation of cosmetic ingredients. It has limited information and focuses on safety data not on performance.

The Cosmetic Cop ingredient dictionary – Paula has put together a good list of common cosmetic ingredients. These focus more on skin care ingredients.

The Personal Care Products Council buyers guide – If you know the name of an ingredient, you can search for the company that makes it and get information from them directly.

EWG Skin Deep Database – The safety information here is not quite accurate but they do list lots of ingredients which can be helpful.

Tightcurly Ingredient list – She’s put together her own compilation of hair care ingredients. It limited information but we admire her spirit.

Avre Skin Care ingredient dictionary – a focus on skin care ingredients and mostly on ingredients they use in their products.

• Less is More-- Products with no preservatives do not have a long shelf life (1 to 2 weeks, depending on the ingredients). When mixing up batches of your favorite hair food, be sure to do so in small quantities and small batches to ensure you are able to make use of it all.

• Refrigerate-- Products without preservatives should always be kept in a cool place. Since most DIY products are natural ingredients without preservatives, they must be kept at a certain temperature to avoid spoiling and potential for microbial contamination.

• Hands Off-- To eliminate or reduce the possibility of contamination and the spreading of germs, avoid using your hands or fingers as dipping tools. This is especially difficult when dealing with jar containers. Try using a clean, properly sterilized utensil, such as a spatula or measuring spoon to scoop out your product. You can also try containers with pumps, which are easier to dispense and less likely to expose the product to bacteria.

• Labeling-- Once your batch is mixed and ready to be stored, apply labels which document the date the batch was made and the contents of each container. This will ensure that you discard products in a timely manner, which leads to my next tip.

• Know how to identify expired products -- Spoiled products are susceptible to microbial growth and as such are a health hazard. Since most DIY products do not contain preservatives, which kill bacteria, it is important to know the signs. A few signs of spoilage: (1) No longer does it’s job – its effectiveness is decreased, (2) Rancidity – it begins to have a less than pleasing smell, and (3) Change in appearance – color changes or emergence of mold. *Tip - Vitamin E and jojoba oils contain natural antioxidants which extend the life of your products

• Keep a lid on it-- To help prevent oxidation, keep containers closed tightly. Every time you open your container, the products get exposed to air and start to oxidate and degrade, which means the death of your product. Antioxidants slow down this oxidation process so that your products will last longer.
  

• Little black dress storage-- When selecting containers to store your DIY product in, darker containers are preferable over clear. In fact, the less exposure to light the better chance your mixture has a chance of making it to your hair.

Being a guy, there’s always a stigma associated with having longish hair. Add mixed to the equation and you’ve got all out controversy. Girls always say, “did you get a perm or texturize your hair, because your hair is two different textures”. Guys assume that because you have hair, it’s a perm or a wig. But my question is why are guys with hair such a big deal? The African American communities, in particular look at you like you’re an alien because you don’t have your hair braided or faded. I think that in America you should have the freedom to express yourself whichever you see fit, that being said let me tell you about a mixed boy’s journey to taming and embracing his naturally red curly/wavy straight-ish hair.

Growing up I also fell into the mindset that because I was a guy I should have my hair short. But due to the fact that I’ve got a head the size of a small planet, that mindset changed quickly. Through some exploring of my genetic make-up when I was in high school, I found I was tri-racial, (having strong roots in three primary ethnic groups); those being Somalian, Native American, and Irish. So from this new found knowledge, I decided to do some exploring of my cultures and had a culture shock literally. I found that in Native American Tribes men with long hair symbolized strength, honor, and health. These realizations affirmed that I could have long hair and be proud, and that I should be an individual and ignore conformity imposed by a Eurocentric society which is America.

So this led me to a gut-wrenching journey of frying and torturing my hair. Being mixed sometimes you have an array of different textures. My hair on top was straight with a bit of wave and spiral curly in the back. So my solution was to fry it with a flat iron and make it all one texture. This ended up killing my hair leaving it lifeless, brittle and dry. This continued for 3 years, which led us up to February 2011 when I decided to take control of my hair. I did hours upon hours of research and found out some great methods to tame that hair.

• First I learned don’t wash your hair unless necessary.
• Second forget satin or cotton, stick to silk.
• Third no combing, only poof’s your hair and breaks it off more.
• Fourth use only natural products in your hair, because anything else will just petrify it.
• Fifth invest in a hair steamer, your hair will love you and thrive.
• Sixth if you have gotten some good growth don’t flat-iron it to death, be careful and keep it to a minimum.
• My seventh and final tip is to condition, condition, condition, and don’t forget CONDITION!

But African American society seems largely to only promote the hair of black women, black men's hair largely is expected to take a backseat. And if a black man does show an interest in his appearance and puts time and effort into his hair, then he is usually viewed as homosexual or DL.

The root of the natural hair movement is about returning to our roots (no pun intended), to celebrate that which defines us as a culture. It's also a celebration and embracing of our African ancestry. But some things got lost in translation.

As a male of African descent in the West, if I care about my appearance in particular my hair I am shunned by my female peers. But, In most parts of northern Africa, male beauty be it athleticism or vanity is openly flaunted in elaborate ceremonies, featuring lavish costumes and wild hairstyles and hair adornments.

However when it comes to the West someone like Nicki Minaj or Lady Gaga can wear endless amounts of colorful wigs, and get applauded by crowds of adoring fans. But when a man wears a toupee or a hair piece he is met with jeers and laughs?! How many times have people laughed at Donald Trumps toupee?

I suppose double standards go both ways. Men will hold women to a certain status quo, and women will do the same for men.

But some people will inevitably go against what society tells them they should be like. And society will try to hammer these "nails" that stick out down. But as Sam Cooke said "a change is gonna come!"

Hola chicas!

It's that time again! The images below are of CN readers at their flyyest...at work, on the town, and with the fam. Showing us all that natural hair is not a fad, it's a way of life...an extension of our beauty! Click on the images to enlarge them--

Gia Nicole- my incredibly gifted, ambitious and gorgeous child who skipped preschool and went straight to college, won The Nobel Peace Prize, and is slated to run for president in 2016- is 13 months today!

Although she started boogying in the womb, first signed at 8 months and walked at 10 months... it took her 13 damn months to grow a tooth and a quarter. 1.25 teeth. Most babies her age have around 8, but Gia, the toothless wonder, was all gums until right before her first birthday, just cutting number 2 last night. And sweet baby Jesus... what a night it was.

Screw what’s politically correct on overweight children and adults. Diabetes is at an all-time high and plaguing African American and Latino communities. Jennifer Hudson, Raven Simone, Mo’Nique and Marsha Ambrosious are all celebrities that have gone from voluptuous curves to hard bodies that are healthy, lean and inspirational.

Did you know that African American women have the highest rates of being overweight or obese compared to ANY OTHER RACE? How ridiculous! I know that real women have curves but not rolls! I’m certainly not pointing the finger because I myself has teetered 15 pounds past my normal weight since I’ve been home. We have to take back our health and no longer accept that our susceptibility to heart disease, asthma, diabetes, high blood pressure and a host of other preventable ailments deserves their own high-fashion collection in the department stores.

Check out this clip from NPR on obesity being encouraged in the black community. Now I’m not saying everyone should be a size two but I am saying protect your health. You can have curves and still be healthy. My typical size is an 8, when I get into those 10′s (that I had to throw on last week), I know that it’s time to put down my plate and get back on track.

Let’s be the girls we were too lazy to be yesterday and take back our health! Sexy is eating healthy, teaching our children to eat healthy, exercising regularly not just for weight control but stress reduction as well and most importantly maintaining great skin.

We have to start getting in shape and developing a healthy eating and fitness routine for a long and healthy life. After all, and I hate to be morbid, what good is a cute plus-size outfit if you could end up wearing it at your own funeral? But it isn’t all our own fault right? What has the culture done to help us further our unhealthy outlook?

Here are a few of my observations. What are yours?

• Where’s the farmers market in the hood? Unfortunately, fast food chains reign supreme in lower-income communities and especially communities of color. Without adequate access to healthy food, our options for getting fresh fruits, veggies and meats are slim when a Trader Joe’s or Whole Foods is out of our reach.

• We don’t want to sweat out our hair. Even natural girls aren’t trying to mess up their do’. Hitting the gym means wasting money at the salon.
  

• Grandma and mama made it so it must be good. Holidays and Sunday dinners are filled with fried foods, yummy starches and greens cooked in smoked turkey or hamhocks. As delicious as the food is, our cultural foods ignore the health impacts of high blood pressure, cholesterol and cancer.

The fact of the matter is we have to TRY! We have to learn more about our health, getting on a regular fitness plan and encouraging our friends to do the same.

What are your thoughts on the issue? Are you a plus-sized beauty that has thought about or taken the steps to losing weight?

Hola Chicas,

It's Thursday which means we've officially taken over Essence for the day! Check out my latest installment, Sexy Second Day Spirals, where I give a new transitioner some pointers. Be sure to leave your tried and true tips and advice for Amarilla Kay in the comment section below the article, as I have to keep it short and may have missed something. Also, feel free to leave any questions you may have... it may be answered on Essence.com next week! Thanks!

Later Gators,
Nik

I don't like who I become when I allow negative feelings to take over me. When I feel attacked, I act like a victim. My ego completely takes over. I lose sight of what really matters. Being right becomes more important than being aware. Basically, I allow factors outside of my control to dictate how I feel and how I behave. And this goes against everything that I've learned about spiritual and emotional health.

So, should I just condemn anger? Or never stand up for myself? That doesn't feel right either. We must acknowledge all of our feelings.

Consider the following excerpt from Health and Happiness Boosters:

"At every given moment, we have a jetstream of feelings operating below our conscious awareness. By bringing those feelings into consciousness, we begin to acquaint ourselves more fully with our deeper selves, and increase our capacity for joy by experiencing the full range of our feelings. For if we cut ourselves off from any feeling, we cut ourselves off from the capacity to feel all others as well. To truly know our joy, we must also know our anger, our sadness."

So, how do I acknowledge anger without allowing it to take over? I'm still figuring it out. My intention is to always speak with purpose - whether the discussion is contentious or not. Does getting loud and angry make someone appear stronger, tougher? Maybe to those who are only observing the surface. But sustainable strength lies in quiet concentration and focused intention. Art of War, anyone? The more I see someone ranting and raving, the more foolish they appear to me.

Here are a couple of the tactics I'm working on to control my anger:

Detachment - When confronted or tested, step outside of yourself and the situation to view what's really going on. Our egos tell us that if we are being yelled at or disrespected, then we must retaliate or lose credibility. We must realize that staying calm and intelligent in heated situations is a virtue that is self-preserving and powerful.

Self-Talk - Typically when we're reacting in anger, our self-talk goes something like this: "WTF? Who does he/she think they are, talking to me like that? Are they crazy? It's not my fault! You're lying! You're not listening to me! You hurt me! You're full of s**t!" All of these defensive thoughts fuel our anger. The following thoughts would help to calm us down: "I can't control what someone else does or says. I'm strong enough to deflect negativity. I can communicate my feelings without acting out. I can better maintain my power by staying even tempered and thoughtful. And finally, WWJD?!?!" (That final thought there stops me from doing A LOT of self-destructive things! Just sayin!)

Misst1806 writes:

With Fall here, its all about protecting my hair from the sometimes harsh elements. I wear twists most of the time, but always had problems with them becoming fuzzy too soon at the roots. One day I attempted a different night routine that has become my go to method for a neat root for a longer period of time and stretched twists! Most people hate shrinkage and this method certainly helps minimize shrinkage I have discovered. I wanted to share in hopes that your readers may appreciate this very easy way to maintain their twists... especially after they took that time to do them in the first place!

How long have you been natural?

OK, so these are not really pants – It’s a jumpsuit, but I will never wear it as that. This is the only piece I purchased from the Missoni for Target collaboration, and it was by chance.

All along, I only wanted a pair of pants, or maxi dress/skirt. I went to the store like everyone else. No luck. The leftovers were.. well, leftovers.

The Target website crashed, but I never gave up. I actually waited a couple of days again before trying my luck. I came across this jumpsuit (in a large), and all I could think of was altering the size and changing them to pants.

There you have it. I’m quite pleased – And you can’t beat the pockets on each side.

Paired it with a gifted American Apparel Silky Loose Crop Tee. Wore the khaki one here with AA mid length circle skirt.

Did you all score any items from Missoni for Target? Enjoy.. xx

Remember the doll with the hair that “grew” from her ponytail!? Well, I was thinking that sometimes we search high and low for that magic bullet product that makes growing hair look that easy. LOL!! But, one thing that you’ll read and hear over and over again on the hair sites and YouTube is that attaining length goals isn’t about growth, it’s about retention. It’s not about products either. You see women using a wide spectrum of products with not one being the same, but they have all achieved great lengths. The common thread that I most often see amongst these women is technique. And one of the most important techniques they seem to share is that they handle their hair with tender, loving and patient care. This includes making sure that the tools they use are as gentle to their hair as they are.

That being said, I wanted to do a post about tools that are gentle to hair, natural or otherwise.

FINGERS: Okay, I know you guys have probably read this over and over again by now, but finger detangling hair prior to using a comb or exclusively is so beneficial. Starting with your fingers (make sure you nails are smooth and your fingers are hangnail free) enables you to remove shed hairs, snarls and knots that you would otherwise rip through with a comb in sweet oblivion to the damage potentially being done. You are able to feel those knots with your fingers in a way that you can’t with a comb and then gently ease them out with minimal to no damage. I didn’t start finger detangling until this year, but I am a convert! A comb almost never touches my hair anymore.

SEAMLESS WIDE TOOTH COMB: Although I don’t really use a comb too much anymore, they do have their place in the regimens of many. Often, they are used after finger detangling has removed a lot of the shed hair and larger, more difficult knots. A seamless comb is recommended because it will not have the ridges and edges that can snag or damage delicate strands. As you see above, I have both the Jibilere Shower Comb from Sally’s and the Ouidad Double Detangler (my SO secretly loves using the latter . I recently came across some wood combs at this Etsy shop, Epstone. I’ve read that wide-tooth handmade wood combs are very good for natural hair as they are seamless, super smooth and help distribute oil down the hair shaft. I’ve never tried them though, so I can’t attest to any of this! Anyone have any feedback on this one?

BOBBY, DOOBIE & HAIR PINS: Many of us use these on the regular. The important thing is to make certain that the tips are secure as raised edges can snag and damage hair. This doesn’t seem to happen with hair pins too much, but the tips of bobby and doobie pins often become ripped. For the $1.99 it costs to buy about 100 of these, it’s not worth damaging the hair to hold onto messed up bobby pins. Just trash them. Also, be careful removing these. If you feel them snagging (sometimes due to a newly accrued raised edge;), don’t rip them out of your hair. Open them as much as possible before removing.

GOODY SPIN PINS: These things are little wonders! You look at them and think, “No way will those will work for natural hair!” Anyone else ever get a round brush stuck in their hair when they were a kid?!? No? Just me? Anywhoooo (*lol*), the Spin Pins glide in and out of a bun like a hot knife through butter if used properly. I prefer these over bobby pins to secure a bun any day of the week. You don’t need 20 and the edges don’t rip!

BANANA CLIP: This is another favorite of mine for buns, as many of you know! They are great for all kinds of updo as I seem to love to repeatedly demonstrate;)! I’ve used banana clips over and over again and usually don’t pull out one strand removing this from my hair. However, as with any tool, it’s how you use it that makes the difference. So, keep only the base of any style within the teeth of the clip and carefully use and remove it.

SATIN SCRUNCHIES: Rubber bands and elastics with metal parts are a big NO-NO. They will pull and snag hair in the removal process. The smooth surface of a satin or silk scrunchie is far more gentle on the hair. Satin scrunchies can be hard to find though. I found mine in a three pack at Walmart and stocked up on them. So, when you find them, if you wear a lot of ponytails or buns, I’d suggest buying a couple, because you’ll inevitably lose one, or two, or three. At least, I always do!

GOODY OUCHLESS ELASTICS and HEADBANDS: I don’t use the elastics often as the Spin Pins and banana clip have become my preferred tools for buns and the satin scrunchie for ponytails. But, many use these with success and the headbands appear to very good for securing the puffs or buns of those with dense/thick hair. The small black or clear plastic elastics and silicone hair bands are other options that are more gentle on the hair than rubber bands or elastics with metal parts.

GOODY COMFORT FLEX BARRETTES: These are another tool that I LOVE!! If you noticed, the unifying theme for all of these tools are smooth surfaces with no metal parts! Those metal barrettes with joints and clips would ALWAYS snag and rip out my hair. The flex barrettes create no such issue and are great for using in styles and for securing hair in sections when necessary. I often use these to secure the twists in the back of my head together to reduce the big center part when doing a TnC or just when wearing big twists out and about to allow my hair to dry.

ROUND-TEETH JAW CLIPS: I’ve found that the rounded teeth jaw clips are for more gentle on the hair and scalp than the ones with pointy teeth. I have pointy teeth clips that always seem to snarl in my hair, whereas I am able to remove the cips with round teeth with ease. The larger clips are great for securing sectioned hair out of your way when applying henna, products or styling. I find the mini clips to be nice options for making “poofs,” quick buns or other updos with smaller sections like the one pictured below that I detailed here. They would probably be a prettier option than bobby pins for securing shorter hair that doesn’t reach a bun, flat twists or side hair for partial updos.

SOFT BRISTLE BRUSH: Finally, if your hands, products and a scarf don’t do a good enough job smoothing your edges (they don’t for me!), a soft bristle brush is probably needed in your arsenal. Soft bristles are gentle on the hair and work better to distribute natural oils and product down the hair shaft. Boar bristles should be selected over hard and/or synthetic ones.

There are a couple other items in the picture far above that I’ve used with success. I don’t know the names or the brands, but found them all at local drug stores. The common theme in all, again, is that they are smooth, soft or plastic and don’t have any hard metal edges or metal joints which can snag or tear hair.* Ultimately, these are just a few of the many “New and Improved” options out there now!! And, it seems that they just keep coming. Seriously, this isn’t a Goody advertisement and I make no money off of an endorsement. But dang, the Goody folk are really on it!! LOL! They definitely seem to have an agenda to make new, innovative, quick, easy and gentle styling tools!! This means that we no longer have to be satisfied with sub-par and damaging styling and grooming devices. And, when we reduce damage, our hair remains stronger for longer and is able to retain length.

*One caveat, even the most gentle of tools can go horribly awry if not used carefully! So, remember, gentle the hands that use them too!

Hey y'all! Fall is upon us, and I wanted to share with you four of my must-have items for the changing of the seasons:

Hola Chicas,

Earlier this week, a casting agent (who had been all over the site and had clearly done her research) reached out to me in hopes that I could lead her to someone having psychological and practical difficulties with their hair... someone in the throws of a rocky transition or early in their journey. Or a curly dealing with disapproving family members, hair loss, or things of that nature. You get the gist. Although the casting call is wide open, it'd be nice to have #teamnatural represented!

Interested? Check out the casting call and submit your story and tell them CurlyNikki sent ya!

Casting call for MTV's True Life documentary episode currently titled "I Hate My Hair":

Is your hair your obsession? Do you have unwanted hair, or not the “right” hair? Are you someone with a hormone imbalance that leads to hair loss, or facial hair growth? Culturally are you told your hair should be one way, but you want it another? Or perhaps you suffer from a condition known as "smelly hair syndrome?" How does it affect your social life? Does your hair make you feel unattractive and affect how you interact with members of the opposite sex? Are you undergoing a procedure to alter your hair or do you go to great lengths to manage it? Are you digging yourself into a financial hole just to manage your hair?

If you appear to be between the ages of 15 -28 and have hair that's making you unhappy, email us at casting@lintonmedia.com and tell us about your story. Please include your name, location, phone number and recent photos of yourself.

For more info on the True Life series, you can take a look at the website, but the synopsis is below:
Since its first episode in 1998, True Life has provided a window into the struggles, hopes, and dreams of young people. Narrated solely by its characters, each episode documents the unusual--and often remarkable--circumstances of real individuals, whether it's about soldiers returning from Iraq, deaf teenagers, or people living with autism. We've given all of them--and hundreds of others--the opportunity to tell their own stories directly to their peers in this powerful, Emmy award winning series that uniquely reflects the experiences and cultures of this generation.

I'm sure by now you're aware of typeF.com's now viral natural hair Youtube videos. I only watched the first minute or so of one, and was also disappointed in the suspect recommendations provided by the stylist.

Having previously spoken to them about working together, I reached out to my contacts at typeF (to ask WTH?! and to recommend Naptural85 to submit vids, lol) and this was the response--

Thank you so much for making us aware of your concerns, and the concerns of your community, around some of the natural hair videos created by JoAnn Robertson on our site and our YouTube channel. typeF is committed to creating quality content. We take this seriously and have since removed these videos from our site and our YouTube channel.

We are currently in the process of reviewing them and would like to ask your assistance in helping us audit them. Does this sound like something you'd be interested in?

I'm up for the challenge curlies and elated at their willingness to accept our input. Do you have any recommendations for the development team at typeF?

I'll keep y'all posted...

over and out,
Nik

A CurlyNikki correspondent got 4 minutes with one of the hardest working women in show business, acclaimed actress Loretta Devine! While on the red carpet at the Emmys, she shared about her experiences working with Tyler Perry and revealed that she too is a proud member of Team Natural!

How does it feel to be here on the biggest night in television?
This is so exciting, I'm over the moon and overjoyed to be here! I won an Emmy at the Creative Awards last night, so a little of the pressure is off... I just had to worry about being beautiful and I feel successful at that.

How did it feel to win?
Oh God! I couldnt' believe it, I was in total shock. I don't even know what I said in my winning speech but I got a chance to see it on reels and it was okay. I'm very happy about it.

Tell me about being apart of the cast of Grey's Anatomy.
It's always like coming home. Jim Pickens plays my husband and it's like butter. It's real smooth, we don't even have to talk about it, we just do it and I love working with him. It's been going on for 7 years so this nod means a lot to me. I hope that now that I've received this Emmy they will create a larger role for me.

As an actress would you like to take that on? Regularly playing someone with Alzheimer disease?
I already did, I did four episodes of that. It's sort of devastating to have to go into that, but I have lots of friends and family that are dealing with it.

Tyler Perry was just named as the biggest earner in Hollywood. What are your thoughts on that?
I wish he'd give me some of that money! [Laughter] 137 mil! Oh my God! Hey Tyler! How you doin'?! [Laughter]

As someone who has worked with him, what are your thoughts on him as a creative director or someone with a creative mind?
He's very creative. He really gives you the range to do all of the things you want to do. But he really knows what he wants... he knows what he likes and he can do it in 2 or 3 takes and move on. So he was really fun to work with. He really takes care of his actors in that he gives you a lot of love and appreciation, so I really appreciated that when I worked with him.

Do you wear your hair naturally or are you relaxed?
I have braids in now and that's as close to natural as you can get! I love the braids because they make me feel youthful and I can swim and still get out of the pool and look gorgeous for my old man.

I don't wear braids all the time though, just off and on. My hair is in a short, cropped natural most of the time, especially off season. You know for different characters you have to wear differernt wigs for contemporary looks, but I love my braids.

What do you do to maintain your hair in the off season?
I actually put Vaseline Cocoa Butter on it because it makes it shine as well as keeps it nourished and crisp. Easy! I love it!