by NaturallyChelsea of NaturallyCurly

I love my natural hair and the versatility that comes with it — one day curly, the next day straight. But going from curly to straight can be a hassle and wash day can leave you anxious as you wait to see if your curls will revert. Contrary to popular belief, heat is not the worst thing for your hair—the  improper use of heat is. So if you want to try a new look, but are a little afraid of heat damage, here are some techniques to minimize the heat and protect your strands.

Tension blow-drying

We all know that blow-drying can cause a lot of damage, not only because of the heat, but because of the manipulation. In order to straighten the hair, it needs to be kept taut. The tighter the curl the more tautly it needs to be pulled. In order to do this, many women use some type of brush that causes constant tugging and pulling on the hair creating split ends and breakage. Tension blow-drying is a more gentle way to blow-dry the hair that involves simply holding hair taut while you blow-dry. The hair will dry in the stretched state without the need for damaging tools.

Rollerseting

Many people mistakenly believe that the only way to get a straighter look is to pull out the good old heat tools, but there is a better alternative, roller setting. If done correctly you can be left with soft shiny bouncy curls that can be worn as is or wrapped to make the hair completely straight.

Flat ironing

The mere mention of the flat iron has the ability to bring fear into the hearts of many naturals who have heard the many stories of limp, lifeless, heat damaged hair. But like I said earlier, it’s all in the technique. When flat ironing, consider using a heatless method of stretching your hair prior to flat ironing, like roller setting, banding or braiding your hair. Also, turn down the heat! There is a nasty rumor going around that tight coils and curls require a lot of heat to straighten. The truth is, if you use thinner sections and implement the brush chase method (using a soft boar bristle brush to smooth out the sectioned hair prior to flat ironing) then the heat can be evenly distributed to each strand, and the hair will straighten with less heat. Also, remember that the more passes of the flat iron over your hair, the greater the chance for damage, so go over a section slowly (twice if you need to), then keep it moving. Don’t go over a section repeatedly and most definitely do not ‘touch up’ your hair in between flat ironing sessions when it begins to revert. Instead, rock styles like twist and braid outs instead until it’s time to wash again.

Heat protectant

I cannot stress enough the importance of a good heat protectant when blow-drying and flat ironing. Many of us have experienced the pain and discomfort of sunburn from a day spent out in the sun without sunscreen, so imagine what direct heat can do to your hair. A good heat protectant contains some kind of ingredient that will create a barrier between your hair and the heat of the flat iron thus preventing damage. However, keep in mind that there is no such thing as 100% protection. Be careful if you choose to use any oils as for heat protection as they can literally fry the hair.

Do you safely heat style your hair? What are your methods?







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31 Comments:

Breena B Well said...

Has anyone used a steam iron such as a wet dry flat iron? It uses steam to straighten I think. Do you still have to use a heat protectant? Isn't steam supposed to be good for the hair?

Derika said...

I heat styled my hair Sunday night. I used a blow dryer with a wide tooth comb and I didn't fully dry it. I let it air dry some. I normally don't heat style but I did it to clip my ends since I'm transitioning.

Davina916 said...

I let my hair air dry until it's about 85% dry, then I blow dry with comb attachment, after using Silk Elements heat protector. I only blow dry twice a year.

Megan M. said...

I always stretch my hair before flat ironing by braiding and letting it air dry over night. I reapply heat protectant even though my leave in has it in it (Jane Carter revitalizing leave in conditioner) I like to be safe than sorry. I blow dry when I do my hair late or at nght and it is always tension method. I always thought rolling setting was for the style not prior to straighting?

Gaye Glasspie said...

Great info...the only time my hair was flat ironed, I had it done professionally. I don't want no trouble, lol

Sheer Genius said...

I just saw a video about a girl who roller sets her hair to get is straight, thought it was interesting may have to try.
http://youtu.be/PjOXgG2sCbU

Gwenn4ya said...

I have been contemplating blow drying my hair and flat ironing it, but all the talk of heat damage scares the mess out of me. I know it will grow back if I have to cut it off, but I've been putting in some major hard work here! I want to get it done professionally at my two year mark, but it's really not that big of a deal if I don't....decisions, decisions!

NancyM said...

I'm transitioning (18 months so far). I roller set my hair and air dry or use a hooded dryer every week. The roller set allows me to easily put my hair in buns or ponytails, which are my staple transitioning styles. I don't blow dry at all and only flat iron a couple of times a year. When I do flat iron I use IC Fantasia Heat Protection serum or grapeseed oil which is a natural heat protectant.

Kimberly KaleidoscopicSoul Eph said...

i love this article extremely helpful

kitka said...

You can roller set to stretch your hair as an alternative to blow drying before flat ironing. I've heard that a lot of Dominican salons use this method (and maybe even the blow dryer too lol).

kitka said...

I use a few heat protectants when flat-ironing: Sebasatian Potion #9 conditioner (lots of silicones), Blow Dry Addict heat protectant, and GVP Chi Silk infusion. I recently changed my blow-dry method from blow-drying wet hair with a comb attachment, to tension blow-drying hair that's stretched in twists and about 85% dry. My hair no longer feels parched and my ends are not brittle and fuzzy. Next time I flat iron I will definitely reduce the heat.

Angela B. said...

I only flat iron twice a year at the most. When I do, I use a heat protectant (Tresemme heat protection spray or CHI Iron Guard) and tension blow dry. I've never stretched and dried my hair in twists prior to blowdrying. I'm going to try this next time instead of blowdrying damp hair.

Shashou said...

I know since I decided to go natural last January 2011 I've only used heat on my hair 3 times. Usually blow drying. But the method I use, since I have super coily hair, is to first detangle when wet and then moisterize. I'll put my hair in atleast 4 sections. And blow dry my hair with a wide tooth comb. I don't use a brush, as mention, because of the constant pulling and tugging. If using the wide tooth comb I still get the blow out needed to do whatever style I may be wanting to do, with out the crazy extra manipulation of using a brush.

missmajestic said...

great post. I was a pro at rollersetting my relaxed hair and I can't wait to try it on my natural hair when I gets longer.

Landry said...

I don't blow dry or flat iron at all--I do sit under a hooded dryer because I don't like to wait days for my hair to dry. I sit under a hood dryer once a week when after I wash, condition, and either braid or twist my hair. I have not incurred any damage.

ss said...

My hair is not long enough yet to flat iron regularly - but when I do, I plan to do the "overnight DC" method. Right now, I may rollerset under a bonnet dryer now and then.
I only flat iron when I want to trim my ends.
Sally Beauty Supply has a DC called Silk Elements which some bloggers leave on overnight and rinse out in the morning prior to heat styling. Some swear that ultra hydrated and conditioned hair is the key to silky long lasting straight styles.
I've also heard that not "overdrying", using a "chase comb", and flat ironing thin sections are techniques to minimize heat damage.

ss said...

A friend of mine swore by her Conair! But, girlfriend had 3c 4a hair. A little bit of moisture can help straighten the hair, but you know your hair best. I think the key is using a heat protectant, not using repeated passes & limiting exposure to the heat.
Remember the MaxiGilde flat iron? I wanted one of those so badly : o)

Sydney said...

I used to blow dry and flat iron my (4a) hair every two weeks. Then back in February 2011 I decided I wanted to give my hair a heat break and see if I could get past my mid back growth plateau. For 9 months I did braid outs and wore it in an up do and in about Oct 2011 I went back to straightening with the blow dryer and flat iron. In January I began using curl formers and did that for a few months and then for 3 months due to a hectic schedule I went back to straight hair for easy mornings. I am now taking another heat break and am planning on straightening my hair next month to trim off a few split ends, fairy knots, and even things out. I found a heat protectant that I adore! It is by IC fantasia http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/fantasia-ic-hair-polisher-heat-protector-straightening-spray/ID=prod1835193-product?ext=gooBeauty_PLA_Flat_Iron/Blow_Dry_Protection_prod1835193&adtype={adtype}&sst=423de263-93ac-1a88-6323-000035744db4 and it works wonders. I usually shampoo (sulfate free of course), co-wash/detangle, DT (with steam) then I apply loads of Lacio Lacio as my leave in. I then spray my head all over with the IC fantasia and tension blow dry section by section, only using the tooth attachment a few times per section to get out any snaggles. I then flat iron on low low heat using a fine tooth comb to first comb each small section then I flat iron it only making one pass per section. Once my head is done, I use the flat iron to make spiral curls on all my ends and I am good to go. I definitely love going curly but I also love when my hair is long and straight. It's nice to be able to go back and forth without damage to the curl pattern. A good leave in and a heat protectant are key!

Sydney said...

Love IC Fantasia! What kind of rollers do you use for your roller set? What products do you use to set the hair? I'd love to try it.
Thanks!

Sydney said...

I'm going to try the twists before the blow dry too! I think that may be a wonderful alternative to using the tooth attachment so often.

Safarascurls said...

I don't use any heat on my hair but I like that this article put everything together especially helpful for a new natural.

KitKat said...

I was just going to say this post should ease any nerves about straightening natural hair, there are so many options and techniques.

LBell said...

Glad you mentioned rollersetting: Using super-large magnetic rollers on small, wet, and thoroughly detangled sections got my fine 4b strands amazingly straight. As for blowdrying, I discovered the tension method by accident when I was trying to get more stretch out of a twistout. When I blowdry (about 4 times a year if that) that's the method I use. I haven't put any kind of iron to my hair since 2003.

Jess said...

I am I guess what you would call a "straight natural"...I flatiron every two weeks, press my edges when they are fuzzy...Iwill wear a twist or braid out if my hair gets too far gone to save with pincurling...I dc everytime Ishampoo...I don't have any heat damage...my hair has always shrinked up all the way (even when I was a kid prior to relaxers...reason why I was scared to go natural at first, fear of breaking and flying blowdryer combs lol)...can some ppls hair be more prone to heat damage than others???

REG said...

I am only 4 months into transitioning. I roller set my hair and air dry. If I am in a rush I will use a blow drier and flat iron.

SavanahRae said...

I want to flat iron my hair but I'm a) too cheap to invest in something I know I wouldn't use that often and b) too lazy to flat iron my hair. I don't know how I did it when my hair was relaxed. Right now I'm just reading up on the techniques to use and all the tools and products I need.

SavanahRae said...

This sounds like a good plan.

Jessica Coletrain said...

I've heard all good things about Silk Elements.

Jessica Coletrain said...

I've seen naturals use oils as a heat protectant. It seems like that would 'fry' the hair. Is there a such thing as a natural heat protectant?

Jessica Coletrain said...

Good question. One of my friends is a 'straight natural' with long, gorgeous hair and she blow drys and flat irons. I think it's all about the technique that you use and the amount of heat.

Davina916 said...

It adds shine to my hair also, (and my Mom's) I like it.

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