Curly Nikki | Natural Hair Styles and Curly Hair Care

Dana asks:

What is the best routine for curlies that are regular swimmers? I find that the swimming caps mush the curls and still don't offer full protection from the chlorine and/or saltwater. Any suggestions on how to fit in regular swimming without always resorting to the wash-n-go?

Naturally Curly writes:

Evelyn of NaturallyCurly writes:

One of the reasons I’m glad I went natural is the versatility and experimentation that my coily hair offers. I don’t have to worry about washing my flat iron job out or ruining my perm. I can try different products and techniques, secure in the fact that I can just wash it out if I don’t like it. So cruising through the aisles of my local organic food store, I stumbled upon some apple cider vinegar and remembered a Youtube video from one of my favorite naturals, naptural85.

On her quest to use more natural ingredients in her hair, she used apple cider vinegar as a shampoo or hair cleanser. She said it added the bounce and shine back to her coils. I bought a bottle (a little over 3 bucks) and decided to find out if it was just as good as she said. And to be completely honest, I didn’t do my research until after I tried out the apple cider vinegar rinse.

Hola Chicas!

I'm re-posting the article below. After the Super Cute Headband blog, I received an influx of emails asking how I achieved my smooth edges, and this routine, unlike most, is one that has not changed (can you believe it?!). After you're done reading, leave a comment detailing how you get your edges smooth!

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Hola Chicas!

I hope all is well in your world. Things are crazy here...as usual, but it keeps me on my toes!

Yesterday evening, I was feeling like a frizz monster, and knew that I'd probably end up pulling my TnC into a pony or bun the following morning. I usually lack this foresight, as I turn into a pumpkin after 9pm, and my edges end up FUZZY...which is okay some days, but every now and then, I want a sleeker look!

Last night, I gathered and secured my hair on top of my head using a scrunchy. I used only my 10 digits to do the job--no brush, no comb. I then took a bit of Shea butter, melted it between my palms, and generously applied it to my edges. Finally, I put on a scarf, and went to bed.



In the morning, I removed the scarf to reveal smooth, frizz free edges! Unlike with gel, my hair is not stiff or flaky. I have the control I need with a softer, more natural look. It's the best of both worlds! This method is low stress on your edges-- you're not using tools, and you don't have to pull them tight to get that sleek/smooth effect.


Of course, being the indecisive person I am, I changed my mind at the last minute, and took my hair down (not before attempting to jazz it up a bit, lol). I was surprised to find it still fluffy, and defined (albeit frizzy, lol). I liked the look and decided to rock it out again!


Moral of the story... apparently, pineappling (sleeping in a high loose pony to preserve curls) works for me! Go figure. Also, if you want a sleek pony or bun with out stressing your edges, try my Shea butter technique, and start the process the night before--or at least 30 minutes before you need to leave the house. Let the scarf and shea do the work :~)

Later Gators,
Nik


**Edited to add: Sometimes, if my edges are particularly fuzzy, I'll wet my hands, smooth my edges and crown, and then apply the shea butter. I've also found pure Aloe Vera Jelly (used in the same way as the shea) to be very effective, it just provides a harder hold... but the shine is unmatched! Also, I bet Castor Oil or butters similar in consistency in pure Shea would work just as well (i.e. Mango Butter).

China writes:

So you just tried a new product combo and you're super excited to reveal the results. You begin taking down your twists, only to find that white flakes are everywhere! This has happened to me so many times. And the worst part is that it's happened to some of my best twist-outs. The products work great to define my hair, but leave a hazy white case. It's frustrating because you don't always have time to start over, nor would you ever want to. What should I do? What do you do?

CN responds:

This has happened to me countless times... it's truly unfortunate and sometimes infuriating! I try to look at flakage on a continuum:

|Minor Flakage- Roll with it
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|Flakes Throughout-Avoid manipulation, bun, and hope for the best
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|White Balls- Rinse and start over

Our hair is versatile in many ways—certain products and styles, such as twists or braids, can achieve different curl patterns, from tight coils to waves and anywhere in between. Experimenting with these techniques is part of the naturally curly experience, but sometimes what you really crave is a burst of color, right? Dyeing any type of hair may involve a chemical process that should be taken seriously. Fortunately, there are many ways to ensure that your new color comes out right, and the health of your hair stays intact. Find out how it works!

If you’re single, don't spend more time on your hair than you do on dating. That advice pops up in my next novel, and I think it extends to all relationships. If I spent three hours on my hair last night but haven’t talked with any friends or family all week, then I consider that a fail, and I rescale my routine accordingly.

When I'm frustrated with my natural, then I change my hairstyle. I don’t want to say that Curly Nikki is magical or anything, but whenever I’m sick of my current hairstyle, it seems like this website comes through with one I haven’t tried before.

Being a true nerd, I have problems with severe dry scalp (dermatitis seborrheic). So I had to cobble together my own special hair care routine. Every Friday night, I deep condition with this all-natural Hair Garden recipe, and leave it on all night under a plastic cap. Then every Saturday morning, I shampoo my hair with Giovanni's Tea Tree Oil Shampoo. And detangle in the shower with Herbal Essence's Hello Hydration. On Wednesday mornings, I co-wash with Giovanni TeaTree Conditioner. I'm a busy mother, so I'm in love with wash and gos. I usually put in Giovanni's Direct Leave-in, work Oyin Handmade Whipped Pudding through my hair, top it off with some Ecostyler and go'on about my business.

I have a bad etsy addiction, and wear a lot of hairbands that I find on there. If you have the right accessories, a wash n' go is great for every day of the week.

Once a month, I do a big Neurtogena T-gel Wash, lathering twice before letting it sit on my scalp for 10 minutes. I turn off the shower and dance while I do this. Good for the environment and a bit o' exercise.

If I know I won't have time or access for a mid-week co-wash b/c of travel or what-not, then after my Saturday wash, I apply the Giovanni Direct-Leave-In, put my hair into two french braids all day, and do this braided twist-out that night. At the end of the week, I have to do the big Neutrogena T-gel Wash to control the dry scalp.

When I really want my hair to pop, I wear a blowout afro. I split my hair into six sections. Apply both glycerin and almond oil, do most of the comb-out work on the cool setting, then only use heat for about 30 seconds toward the end. But I only do this for special-special occasions. The last time I did it was at Easter. And I won't do it again until my first book signing this Monday in LA.

If you like me, are always finding yourself having to go to events with no time to even do a wash and go, this super-easy updo will save your life and earn you tons of compliments. I also love frohawks, which are a great last-minute style.

Go see a dermatologist, if you have or think you might have dry scalp issues like I do. I suffered through it for years, until I went to see a doctor about it. She gave me a gel that cleared it up in like two weeks. I felt real silly for not going earlier.

I've undergone two big chops. When I was 17, I transitioned for a year, then went to a male barber for the big chop. There were no natural hair salons that I knew of in St. Louis back then, and this was also before the internet, so my TWA was not fashionable -- like at all. About a year later I had it cut again, and this time kept it very short, and just wore big earrings. After my mother died unexpectedly when I was in college, I grew out my hair for about a year and got dreadlocks, which I kept for 12 years. Two years ago, I big chopped those, and less than a year later, I had quit my job, gotten pregnant, scored an agent and a book deal. I think I'll cut my hair again the next time I feel like I need a luck infusion.

Some people say that having a natural style keeps you from getting guys. I would argue that it thins out the herd and ups the number of authentic men who approach you. In general you don't want any man that is only attracted to black women with relaxed hair. If you're blaming your hair for being single, you're probably transferring. The simple truth is that there are tons of single sisters with perms. The hard truth is that it's never your hair keeping you single. I loved dating as a natural woman.

There's this myth that goes around unchecked. Black people say that you won't be able to get a job if you have natural hair. Most of my successful friends are naturals. The CEO of Xerox is natural. Point me to any professional career field and I can find you a successful natural sister within it. I don't care if a woman prefers a relaxer, but I hate when she lies about her motivations for having one and makes it seem like she's somehow more successful than a woman with natural hair, when that's simply not true.

I think being natural automatically gives you more confidence and a stronger personality.

I made the main character of my novel natural for emotional -- rather than political reasons. Also, I loved the thought of giving someone a complete makeover with natural hair as her crowning glory.

I don't proselytize to people with perms anymore. It occurred to me that if I want people to accept me I have to accept them. Plus I think telling other women to go natural can easily cross the line into patronization. We're all grown, and we all know our options. I think we should try to respect each other's hair decisions.

Still, I'm surprised that more people don't discuss how much time and money is saved by going natural. That's the number one reason to have natural hair, in my opinion. I never would have survived my starving artist years with a perm.

Also, I would never loan money to someone with a weave. If a friend with a maintained weave claims to be broke, I'm like "No, you're not."

Ernessa T. Carter is the author of 32 CANDLES and the editor of FierceAndNerdy.com. 32 CANDLES is the Essence Book Club Recommended Read for July 2010 and can be purchased here.

Humidity and dew points have come up quite a bit lately, and instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, I looked to a NaturallyCurly.com legend to break it down for us! RCC's blog Pittsburgh Curly is very informative, she writes:

'The care and maintenance of naturally curly hair is one of my favorite hobbies. I have really enjoyed learning how much of a difference things like ingredients, weather, seasonal changes, and a host of other random quirks affect the way our hair curls. Whether or not we end up with pretty waves, curls, and kinks, or, end up with a head-full of frizz can be a simple matter of one ingredient or a slight change in the humidity.'

RCC is the author of the following article. I hope it helps you to make better product and ingredient decisions no matter the weather!



When many curlies talk about humidity and their hair, they often look at relative humidity. While this makes some sense in a humid summer, it really doesn’t give a clear picture. Once winter hits, it can still be 100% humidity, but your curls will not spring out like they will on a summer day that is 100% humidity.

That is because there is a difference between relative humidity and actual humidity, or how much water really is in the air.

If you want to use humidity to gauge what types of hair products you need, you need to check out your dew point.

Dew point is the temperature at which water will condense and form dew (or fog), hence the name dew point. The catch is that the dew point cannot be higher than the air temperature. If it’s 20 degrees with 100% humidity, the dew point will be 20 or so. If it’s 90 degrees with high humidity, the dew point will often be in the 70’s.

How much water the air can hold all depends on the air temperature. Think of a cold day as a shot glass. It can only hold a little bit of water. Now, think of a hot day as a keg. It can hold a lot more water. So, even if your cold day/shot glass is 100% full of water, it still isn’t that much water compared to a 1/4 full keg/hot day.

What most people consider a “humid” day really means a “high dew point day.” Many people start to feel uncomfortable when the dew point reaches 60 degrees, and at 70 degrees, it feels quite oppressive.

What does this mean for you and your hair? Does all of this meteorological mumbo jumbo really mean anything when it comes to how your curls behave? You betcha!


This can also apply to curlies who live in areas that are low humidity year-round such as the Rocky Mountain and Southwest regions of the US.

Conditioners and humectants will be talked about in this section, and then mentioned in following sections.

I consider a dew point of 30 (-1 C)and lower to be dry. A lot of this is influenced by where I live. I live in an area that has four distinct seasons. For some of you, 30 might be a good day. For others, dry to you will be a dew point of 45 (7 C).

If there isn’t much moisture in the air, there is little for your hair to retain. Like your skin and sinuses, (think of those wintertime frozen boogers!) hair is often drier in the winter. The tight perky curls you had in the humid summer will often take a looser pattern in the winter. That’s fine, and pretty normal. It’s nothing to panic over. But, if you totally lose your curl pattern and see a bunch of flyaway static-like poofy frizz, there are things you can do.

If appropriate, get a humidifier. I have a plug-in one that I use so my nose isn’t super dry, and it seems to help with my hair too.

Conditioners. You will need richer, thicker conditioners in the winter than you did in the summer. You will probably also have to condition more often. I prefer heavier conditioners with things like shea butter. Look for conditioners made for dry hair, or those that claim to be thick and rich. I’m a big fan of Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose and White Camellia conditioners this time of year. Do be careful not to over-condition, but do condition enough so that your hair isn’t ending up being a static poofball.

Humectants. A boon to curls in the spring and summer, a bane to them in winter. This article by Curl Chemist Tonya McKay will give you a much better explanation of the role of humectants and humidity than I ever could. The main thing is that you need to avoid humectants in dry weather conditions as much as possible. While someone in Boston may only have to avoid them in the winter, someone in Utah may have to avoid them most of the year.

To quote a part of the article:

In extremely low-humidity conditions, such as a cold, dry winter air, there is no appreciable amount of water in the air for the humectant to attract to the surface of the hair. In this particular type of climate, the best one can hope for with most traditional humectants is for them to prevent evaporation of water from the hair into the environment. Also, under these circumstances, there is some risk of the humectant actually removing moisture from the cortex of the hair itself, creating the problem it was intended to prevent.

The main humectants one sees in hair care products are glycerin, honey, propylene glycol, and panthenol/vitamin B5. If you can avoid most of them (which can be difficult) you’ll do a lot to help keep moisture in your hair. The Aubrey conditioner mentioned above is humectant free, as are others. This is one of those annoying ingredient issues that requires lots of label reading time. Hair gels often contain humectants, which is why they work so well in the summer. You can switch to a curl cream if that works better for you, or use your gel over a leave-in conditioner to see if the conditioner will be enough of a buffer between your hair and the hemectants of the gel.

Leave-in conditioner. If you don’t use a leave-in any other time of the year, you way want to consider one in the winter. A leave-in can add an extra layer of protective moisture to your hair. Just look for one without humectants!


I consider the 30-40 (-1 to 4 C)degree dew point range to be the in between area. It’s not super dry, but it isn’t comfortably moist either. I have noticed lot of variance in what other curlies like in this range. Some do best with a modified low dew point routine such as still using moisture but adding small amounts of humectants. Others keep a low dew point routine, and some use a routine that also fits the comfortably moist range by using a balance of moisture and humectans that works with your hair’s texture and porosity. It is hard to give recommendations that work for all in this range as this seems to be the range that most have a hard time with. In places with four seasons, you see this range a lot in the seasonal transition from winter to spring and from early to late fall.

The 40-60 (4 to 16 C) degree range seems to be a happy haven for most curlies. There is enough humidity to keep curl formation, but no so much that you get the big giant frizz. Depending on your hair type, a good balance of moisture and humectants works here. While there are differences between the lower and upper ranges, the range itself is comfortable for many.


Many people notice that it feels sticky once the dew point hits 60 (16C ), and most will feel it when it reaches 65 (18C). At 70 (21C) and over, it is quite uncomfortable. This is the range when people call it a humid day.

At this point, many curlies will put away the thick rich conditioners they used in winter or drier times, or, they may just use them less frequently. Some skip using a leave in conditioner. I have porous hair, and I still like a leave in during the sticky months because it does seem to help keep the cuticle tamed a bit. You can play around with this to see what works best for you. I’m having wonderful luck with Curl Junkie Curl Rehab as a leave-in in various dew points. Other might prefer this in the moderate to dry range only.

Some of you, especially those with porous hair may notice a backlash from humectant use. The products that controlled your curls in more temperate dew points may cause you to get the cotton candy look in the summer. Those of you who get humectant induced frizz in the summer many want to look into anti-humectants to help keep the moisture out of you hair. Others resort to hard hold type gels along with their regular routine. I seem to have a preference for polymers like PVA/PVP in high dew point conditions. It sort of locks the curl down for me.

For those of you who, like me, are absolute heat wimps, updos are an option too. I tend to put my hair up a good deal in July and August because it just gets too uncomfortable to wear it down all of the time. I tend to put the anti-humectant properties of pomades to good use then also as they help keep my updos in place. Right now I am a big fan of the Kinky Curly Gloss Pomade that I can pick up at my local Whole Foods.


If you want an easy way to check you local dew point, plug in you zip code into the Weather Channel search bar on the top of their page. The results will show you the dew point right below the pressure. Or, if you want an hourly estimation of what the dew points will be like for you that day, plug in your location on Weather Underground. This is really good for those of you who live in variable climates where you have quick changes during the day or from day to day.

I, along with No-Poo Jillipoo and Colorado Curly being the hair science geeks that we are, talked about it enough that there is a simple, if theoretical, temperature chart. bear in mind that this is what seems to work for me and my area. While the guidelines are also helpful for many others, they are merely guidelines. Use this info and tailor it to your individual needs.

• Dew point below 15F (-9C) – very dry. Use as much moisture and emollients as you hair can handle without overconditioning. Many will have to expect a looser curl pattern at this point. For those who like to occasionally straighten their hair, this is a good time for it since you may have less curl to fight. Humectant use may need to be cut out entirely or severely limited.

• Dew point 15-30F (-9 to -1C) – Dry, add moisture and emollients. Limit or cut out humectants.

• Between 30-40F (-1 to 4C)can be iffy. Some people can tolerate more humectants. Other cannot. Very trial and error in this range.

• Between 40-60F (4 to 16C). Prime curly range. You should get some curl without that summer frizz. Find a balance between moisture and humectants that works for you.

• Dew point 60F (16C) and up. You need to find a moisture/humectant tolerance that works for you. Some of you will be able to tolerate humectants. Those of you with more porous hair may start to see humectant induced frizz at this range, and especially so once the dew point hits 70. Those who get humectant induced frizz may want to look into anti-humectants to keep that muggy weather out of your hair.
  

Tanya asks:

Laura asks:

Renee asks:

CurlyNikki asks:

A Brooks asks:

CN's Response: Back when I was a Wash-n-Go girl, I lived by a modified version of the shingle method. I used one of Herbal Essence's Gels (Totally Twisted is very light and not drying), and after applying a leave-in, would rake the gel through small sections at a time. The raking motion (which captured chunks of hair between my fingers) would create perfect little spirals. I'd then air dry, diffuse, or sit under a dryer. To show more length, I'd blast the roots with a warm blow dryer, stretching the curls a bit. The style would last 2-4 days depending on how crunchy it was on day 1.

I also learned that straight Aloe Vera Gel/Juice or a styler with Aloe as one of the top ingredients, is the single BEST kept secret for curl definition. My curls would pop without any further coaxing. It's also a great light moisturizer, and helps with frizz.

Catrise asks:

When fluffing the hair after doing a braid/twist-out, what is the best technique to use in order to not over fluff the hair style (comb, fingers, hair pick, etc..)?



CN's response: I've slowly come to the realization that allowing my hair to 'just be', allows it to fluff up naturally with minimal frizz. The day after my styling session (usually a Twist-n-Curl), I remove the curlers and gently unravel the twists. Since the twists are so chunky, I sometimes break them apart to help it look more natural, but that's all I do... no finger combing, picking, or massaging the roots. This no fluffing routine gets me to four day hair, which I greatly appreciate.

The problem is that my hair is fine, and walking around for a day with a flat TnC drives me insane- it's scalpy, and overly defined. However, come day two, it's twice as big, still chunky, defined, and frizz free!

There are times when I need it to be the three F's (funky, fabulous, and flyy) on day 1, so I do the following:

• Remove the curlers
• Unravel the twists
• Break twisted sections apart (turning 1 crinkle into two and so on)
• Spread my fingers and use them as a pick/comb to gently break up the roots
• Sometimes I'll flip my head over, still using my fingers as a pick... running them from my roots to 1/4 down the strands
• Massage the roots at the crown to help hide any parts
• I never use combs or any other tools to fluff... just my fingers
  

Finally, for easier fluffing and bigger hair, remember to use less product! Preferably no styler (gel/mouuse, curl cream), and only a silver dollar sized amount of your 'styling conditioner'.

L. Howard asks:

Hola Chicas,

Over the years I've tried many detangling methods-- dry, wet, with a paddle brush, using a denman, fingers only, in sections, under the water stream, hell, I've even tried oil rinsing! I've done it all, but with my current length and density, the following works best for me:

• I get in the shower with loose, dry hair (usually an old Twist-n-Curl).
• I wet it down, apply loads of conditioner, and let it marinate.
  
• I then split my hair down the middle, and start with the left side.
  
• I section out the back (pinning the rest of the left side up and out of the way) and detangle with my fingers and Ouidad comb under the shower stream.
  
• I two strand twist that section and repeat with the other two sections on that side (one above my ear, and one by my face).
  
• Repeat with the right side.
  
• I end up with three product free, thoroughly detangled, twisted sections on each side-- 6 total.
  
• I then get out of the shower,and blot dry. I take down one twisted section at a time, and apply my leave-in/styler prior to re-twisting it (I usually turn one twisted section into two twists).
  

This routine allows me to slowly and gently detangle small sections at a time, resulting in fewer hairs loss. Twisting the detangled sections keeps my curls from knotting back up (I used to skip this step, making my efforts futile), and makes for a much quicker styling session.