Going natural is a big step. If you big chopped to start your transition, there is certainly an adjustment period. Part of this period is dealing with that awkward stage of hair length where it feels impossible to find styles you like that can make you feel good about your hair. Here are some of the best hairstyles for the awkward stage to help you embrace those beautiful curls!

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Taking care of your curls is important. When your hair is given proper attention, it will be healthier and more beautiful from root to end. One of the most important areas of curly hair care is the matter of haircuts. If you have coily hair, you may have questions like, how often should I cut my coily hair? While everyone’s hair is different and you may have your own preferences, the texture of your hair is often a deciding factor in matters of hair care. So, let’s look at coily hair in terms of trimming.

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In the video I speak about my long hair being a confidence crutch and the freedom of cutting it. Check it out!

Does it seem like you can never get rid of your split end problem? Well, part of this because to an extent you never really will. Let me explain.

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The term big chop has been coined by the natural hair community as the triumphant return to your ‘natural’ self after cutting off all traces of chemically-treated hair. Emotions run high as you say goodbye to everything you once knew, and embrace this new lifestyle as what you’ve always wanted to be.

Confident. Beautiful. Strong.

These feelings resonate well with those who have enjoyed the freedom of daily wash & gos without much else to worry about. Now your hair has grown in, you made it through the awkward stage, you’re loving your length until you realize just how much work long natural hair requires.

There are so many cute short styles that we have access to now that we may not have realized back in ’06 when the natural hair community was still on the come-up. With sites like Pinterest, Tumblr, Instagram, even Facebook there is a plethora of natural hair inspo that leaves us itching to do the chop again, so why are we still on the fence? Here are a few reasons why you should consider a second big chop this summer.

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Short and sassy, funky and fun, pixie cuts are definitely a hot style for the summer.

Whether relaxed or natural, the pixie cut is a cute way to set your hair free. Made popular by women like Halle Berry, Toni Braxton, Malinda Williams, and Rihanna, it's a look is for women who exude confidence. But once you've chopped your locks to rock a pixie cut, how do you keep it looking its best?

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So you’ve got split ends and they need to be removed, like yesterday! How can you go about doing this? There are three ways to accomplish this task that won’t require you to lose too much length:

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Q: How do you reduce breakage/shedding other than trimming?

A: Let’s start by discussing the difference between shedding and breakage.


What is hair loss?
"When your hair naturally falls from the root, you are experiencing hair loss. Some amount of hair loss normal and to be expected.

In fact, while you may not be aware of it, you’re likely losing up to 100 strands each day. The “100 strands” theory is based on the assumption that we have approximately 100, 000 hairs on our scalp and lose around 1% of them daily.

Additionally, the rate at which you’re losing hair can vary based on gender, diet and genetics.

What is hair breakage?
Curly hair is especially prone to breakage. You may experience breakage when combing, detangling, or styling your curls. Breakage is most noticeable when brushing or combing your hair, removing a hair band, or in the shower.

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WHAT IS DUSTING?
A dusting is where a very small amount of hair is trimmed off the ends of the hair.  So little is removed that it looks like fine dust on the floor. Ends can be dusted to remove splits before they become out of control. 

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I used to run from them as a child. I mean, make a b-line for the closest vacancy or excuse to change the subject. As soon as someone tried to s-p-e-l-l the word I would immediately remember the homework I needed to finish or the laundry I just had to do.

Trims, man. I do not have fond memories.

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By far, the best decision I ever made in my natural hair journey was to have my chop turned into a Deva Cut at the end of my transition. Not only was there a tremendous amount of care put into cutting my hair curl-by-curl, the resulting shape of my hair (both curly and straight) was awesome:

But that was in December. According to several popular stylists that work with natural hair like Felicia Leatherwood, as a rule of thumb natural and curly girls should look to trim their ends every time the seasons change -- every 3 to 4 months. It doesn't have to be a drastic trim, but just enough to get the split, dry, damaged, or uneven ends away from the bulk of the healthy hair.

As much as I love my Devachan stylist Sergio, I can't afford a Deva Cut every 3 months. Besides, he travels back and forth between New York and LA, so getting appointments that regularly would be insane.

The solution? Do it myself.

Although there are about 54,648 different reasons to not take scissors to your hair yourself, a small trim at home does have some benefits:

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I totally get why many shy away from trimming. Hair shrinkage coupled with the fear of scissor-happy stylists make some naturals run the other way. When you’ve worked hard to achieve and maintain some length, you’re not tryna hear nothin’ bout no trim!

While quite a few naturals shudder at the sound of a pair of shears, others have come to grips with the fact that trims are, in fact, necessary for overall hair health. Yes! While some may not need one as often as others, they’re good for you! The question comes up, though, “how will I know when I need one?”

Here are four things to look out for:

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There is so much controversy surrounding the need to cut or not to cut. In my experience as a woman and my experience as a professional hairdresser, I believe the appropriate time to trim one's hair is based on the individual. Some factors that affect the frequency of your trim include:

1. Your hair's current state of health
2. The shears used on your cut
3. Your hair care regiment which includes (conditioning, cleansing, and styling)
4. Your use of heat
5. Good Ole' Genetics

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I straightened my hair about two weeks ago (see that post here). Although I “search and destroy” regularly, my ends were desperately in need of a trim as it had been 10 months since my last professional one. So, the Monday morning after straightening my hair, I reached out to my stylist Tameeka (aka Jaded Tresses) to see if she would be in her NJ location that night. I was hoping that she might be able to slip me in between her other appointments.

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There are a few ways that your ends can tell you when it's time for the good ol' heave-ho. Sometimes all it takes is one look at your lifeless, scraggly ends to get the hint. Other times it can be subtle, leaving you confused about your how to solve your problem.

Luckily, you don’t have to pull your hair out trying to get to the bottom of your hellish hair situation. If you’re experiencing any of these issues and have examined your hair regimen, tried different products, and tweaked your techniques to whip your curls back in shape, maybe you’re just due for a trim.

Split Ends
If you’ve got that frayed look going on at the ends, it’s time to break out the scissors and let those bad boys go once and for all. Don’t fret about losing an inch or two after a snip. Breakage is what makes your hair look thinner and shorter, so a little trim will only help in the long run.

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Despite our best efforts to care for our hair with the right products and treatments, there are times when it just does not act or feel right. Our products may no longer work like they used to and the feel of our hair may scream damage despite its healthy appearance. When that happens, we may be baffled, but sometimes the answer is as simple as examining our ends closely. Damage caused by every day wear and tear, heat styling or simply the age of our hair can cause it to act out. A simple trim may fix it, but some of the damage may still be there. Why not consider doing a mini chop and cutting two or more inches off at your next trim?

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So, I was going through some of my hair pics from 2010 and came across the pics on the left. They are from late December 2010, a few short months before I joined the Curly Nikki/Kim Coles Grow Out Challenge with a goal to grow my hair to waist length. The shots are before and after a self-trim. The picture on the right is from September 2013.

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A Mini Chop is cutting two or more inches of hair off, and is so named after the larger, well-known Big Chop. Whether you have already had a Big Chop, or you’re still considering it, here are seven signs that the Mini Chop is for you.

1. Lack of volume

When we first start our natural hair journeys, most of us create a goal to grow our hair to lengths we never once dreamed possible. However, once we achieve our hair length goal we quickly discover that it comes with a big price- a reduction in volume.

Some curlies appreciate this because they longed for the days when their hair tumbled down their backs. However for the curlies longing for outrageously big hair your enemies length and gravity will both conspire against you. If you crave width instead of length, then when you book your next hair appointment ask your stylist to cut rather than trim your hair to reduce its weight and achieve more volume.

2. Aging Hair

Our ends are the oldest part of our hair strand and have endured everything from our overzealous use of styling tools to chemical treatments. As a result they are more prone to breakage, tangling and just don’t look as nice as the length of our hair.

If you’ve been growing your hair out for a while and have ends that are forever frizzy, and you’re tired of babying them then it is time to book your next hair appointment. Your hair will look and feel so much better after a good cut and you’ll probably shave a significant amount of time from your detangling and styling time.

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