When I’m in the guise of my alter ego, “Hairscapades”, I often receive or read cries for help that go something like this:
I came across just such a question this past
weekend on CurlyNikki’s Facebook page and I did my best to answer it.
As I wrote the response, I realized that my answer to this frequent
query might be helpful to other … so this post was “born.”
Now, here are a couple of disclaimers before
we get started. One, my hair is a mix of regular and high porosity
strands, you may need to modify some of these steps if your hair is
under-porous. Two, my suggestions here are for hair that is
really in need of moisture. It is not for hair that is over-moisturized
and in need of protein to help it retain hydration. For more on dry,
brittle hair that may be a result of over-conditioning caused by regular
co-washing, overnight baggying, protein avoidance, etc., check out my
posts: Moisture and Protein: Finding the Balance and Can I Over-Condition?
6 Steps to Building Sustained Moisture
When, I see inquiries like the one above, I rarely make product
recommendations for “daily” moisturizers. This is because, I think building sustained moisture starts on wash day.
I think the importance of this day can sometimes be underestimated.
Therefore, the advice I offer is related to techniques (and the
products) that I have found successful in hydrating hair so that it will
sustain moisture level between wash days. This is not to say that a
moisturizer will not be needed between wash sessions. However, by
building hydration levels on wash day, re-moisturizing sessions during
the week may be more effective and required less frequently.
So, here we go. These are the steps that I take to hydrate my hair and seal in all that “moisturiffic” goodness;).
|“Naked” hair (left); hair with leave-in (right)
1. Start with a pre-poo (on dry hair) prior to shampooing.
Coat hair with a penetrating oil, like coconut, olive, avocado or Vatika
(coconut oil base), which has the ability to enter the hair shaft and
reach the cortex to moisturize the hair from the inside out. Leave oil
on hair under a plastic baggie for a minimum of one hour up to overnight
What I Use: Right now, I’m loving Aubrey Honeysuckle Rose
(moisturizing) or GPB Conditioner (protein) mixed with Vatika oil as a
pre-poo. I alternate moisture and protein as needed.
2. Wash with a non-stripping, sulfate free shampoo.
What I Use: DevaCare No Poo (diluted with water in a dye bottle for easier application and slip).
3. If necessary, apply a moisturizing, cheapie conditioner to thoroughly detangle hair.
What I Use: Herbal Essences Hello Hydration (HE HH). Best detangler I’ve found for my hair so far.
4. Deep condition (DC) for 15 minutes to an hour with heat.
Then, this is key, COOL and SEAL. Cooling and sealing was a game-changer
for me. The short of it is that you remove the heat source and allow
the DC to cool in your hair for 10-15 minutes. Then, you dilute a
regular daily conditioner in cool/cold water and apply it directly over
the DC prior to rinsing everything out with cold water. For more details on this technique, check out my post: Deep Conditioning Tricks … Cool & Seal.
What I Use: I’m really feeling Matrix Biolage Conditioning Balm
to deep condition right now (the Sally’s GVP version is good too). But,
I’m also a fan of Darcy’s Botanicals Pumpkin Seed Moisturizing
Conditioner, JessiCurl Weekly Deep Treatment, Shea Moisture Raw Shea
Deep Treatment Mask and Carol’s Daughter Tui Hair Smoothie. I use HE HH
or Aussie Moist as my “sealing” conditioner.
5. After rinsing the deep conditioner, apply a leave-in conditioner thoroughly to wet or damp hair.
What I Use: I’ve been getting really good results with Aubrey
Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner as a leave-in. But, I also often rely on a
modified Kimmaytube leave-in recipe (2 tbsp Kinky Curly Knot Today, 2
tbsp aloe vera juice – whole leaf, 1 tsp of oil [mix of EVOO, JBCO and
6. Seal in the water, leave-in conditioner and any stylers/moisturizers used with an oil, butter or oil/butter blend.
What I Use: JBCO/EVOO mix. Doing these things on wash day enables my hair to hold onto moisture
throughout the week and between wash sessions. Oh, and if my hair is
feeling a little dry a few days into the week, I simply apply a
moisturizer (with water as the first ingredient) and re-seal with an
oil. Happy hair!!