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Curly Nikki

MahoganyCurls’ Roller Set How-to

By January 27th, 202140 Comments
MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

March 2011-2nd Roller Set

Hi Guys!

After seeing CurlyNikki’s roller set, it gave me the idea to do another one myself (the hubs also mentioned that he would love to see my hair straight, I cringed at the thought, but he has been a good sport about me wearing my hair curly, lol!). I think her hair turned out beautifully, and it gave me the courage to revisit the style.

*Note: My hair is fairly easy to straighten, I can wear my hair pulled back for a day or so and my roots will get pretty straight. So, I just wanted to let you guys know this prior to explaining what I do. If you look closely, you will see that my hair looks as if it is lacking curl pattern. I was wearing a bun for about a week and it stretched my hair a lot! I also went 20 days without doing anything to it! Lol!

Cleansing Your Hair
Before you begin you want to make sure that your hair is clean. Now, the last time I set my hair, I actually clarified it beforehand. This time I decided that I would hold off on the poo, as I’ve been following a strict shampoo free regimen. I know that it may sound gross, but the products I use do not build up on my hair or scalp. I can remove the excess dirt or product through co-washing or water rinsing. I just rinsed my hair and massaged my scalp thoroughly.

Conditioning and Detangling
The next thing I did was condition my hair. I feel that conditioning is a very important step in the styling process. I am a conditioner freak! Lol, I love conditioner. I used Tresemme Naturals as my conditioner of choice. I divided my hair in four sections and applied the conditioner to each section. I used my Jilbre shower comb to detangle. Twisted the detangled section, and started on the next section. When I finished all four sections, I allowed the conditioner to sit for a while before rinsing. I then removed each twist, finger combed it, and rinsed the conditioner out with lukewarm water. Finally, I squeezed the excess water and stepped out of the shower.


MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

I didn’t use the Jane Carter Wrap and Roll solution this time. Well, I started using it, but it made my hair super hard! So I rinsed it out and decided to go with the Tresseme naturals. The conditioner made it very easy to section and smooth my hair during the setting process. When my hair was completely dry, my curls were soft, bouncy and shiny!

Before you began setting your hair, make sure that you have all of your tools set out and ready to go. Roller setting takes a lot of time, and the process can be very time consuming if you are not prepared. You will need:

  • Rollers of your choice (I prefer salon magnetic rollers)
  • Duckbill or metal clips
  • Rattail comb
  • Spray bottle
  • Wide tooth comb
  • Setting lotion or product of choice
  • Hooded dryer (you can also air dry, but it will take a long time to dry)
  • Hair clips- I use butterfly clips
  • Oil or heat protectant for shine and smoothing
  • PATIENCE- most important thing!

Setting The Hair


MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

The” Mohawk”

Remove the clips from your hair. You may notice that your feels a little dry. Take your spray bottle and fill it with water. Begin saturating your hair. After your hair is completely saturated, apply your leave in, foam wrap, or styler of choice. Now, take the end of your rattail comb and make an off centered part on the left side of your head going vertically to the nape of your neck. (The part should be a little off from the center). You should now have two parts. Gather the hair on the left side in your butterfly clip. Repeat the same step for the right side. There should be a total of 3 parts and the hair in the middle should resemble a mohawk.


MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

Make a horizontal part in the front of the “mohawk”. The part shouldn’t be too thick nor too thin, it is kinda hard to explain, but you will know when you are actually rolling. It may take a couple of times to get it. This is going to be the first section that you roll. Pull this section of hair towards your chin as if your are doing a length check. Take your rattail comb and begin combing the hair from ends to roots. This is called smoothing, if your hair feels a little dry, be sure to spray it with water. Once your hair is smooth, begin rolling while smoothing the ends on the roller. As you are rolling your hair, lightly tug at the scalp ( LIGHTLY!) and roll it UP towards the ceiling. Once the rolling is complete, secure the roller with a duckbill or metal clip at the roots. After you have added the second roller, you can secure it by clipping it on the first roller. (Just join both of the rollers together in the middle with the clips). You should feel a little tension, not too much, if so, it is too tight. You are going to repeat this step for the entire “mohawk” section.


MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to
MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

After the “mohawk” section is complete you can either start on the right or left side for the next section. Step three is similar to step two. This time make a vertical section towards the back of the left side. This will be the beginning of your new section that you will set. Secure the hair that is exposed. Now, make a horizontal section at the top of the new section you just created. Take your rattail comb and smooth the hair. Grab your roller and roll your hair smoothing the ends towards the ceiling. Secure the roller. You are going to repeat these steps for the left and right sides of your head. Until you have completed the setting process.


Drying- now you will sit under the dryer. Depending on your length and thickness, it can be between 1-2.5 hrs. I usually dry my hair on medium heat. Remember that you should not touch your hair. This is the annoying part, because the dryer can get pretty hot! Just remember to be patient. πŸ™‚


MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to
MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

Removing the rollers- always check to see if your hair is completely dry before removing the rollers. I like to pull a roller from the middle and the very back. If the curls are dry, I know the rest of my hair is dry as well. Slowly remove the rollers, make sure you do not snag your hair on the metal clips. Trust me, it can and will happen if you’re not careful. Slide the rollers out, it should create a spiral effect. Once you are done doing that, take a small amount of oil or heat protectant and fluff your curls lightly without disturbing the curl pattern. It is hard to explain it in writing, but you will be smoothing your hair with your hands. The video will explain it better! Lol!


MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

This is after I smoothed the roots with the curling iron on very low heat. I only did the roots.

*Even though I smoothed my roots, I still used a heat protectant.

You may notice that your roots are a little wavy, or even puffy (if you didn’t put enough tension on the roots while you were rolling). Well, it is gonna wave a little. This time, I took my barrel irons and on low was VERY low, it “hit” the roots to smooth them a little. I just smoothed the roots only. You can also take the blow dryer on low heat and blow the roots. I know some people like to do that as well. It is your choice. If your roots are great, then you are good to go! This step is optional. My roots are still a little wavy. I do not mind though, I like the texture at the roots! You may have to trim your ends if needed. Enjoy your hair!
MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

After a little “fluffing” and “curl positioning” with my fingers, I am good to go! You can see that the ends need a little dusting…

MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

This was taken today after I trimmed a few of my ends…

Nightime Routine:

MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

MahoganyCurls' Roller Set How-to

I like to pincurl my hair night, but you can also wrap it. Just make sure you sleep with a satin bonnet, or scarf to protect your hair. When you wake up, just remove your wrap or pincurls. That is it!

Check out my first roller setting video. It was recorded last February, I was 12 months post BC. A new video will be coming soon!

What’s your roller setting routine?


  • hunnybun says:

    I love this. I'm starting to adventure into rollersetting for buns and this looks amazing.

  • the diva says:

    looks great! I actually find the pony-tail rollerset works best for me cuz my roots are so curly. I make about six pony tails on each side of my hair after applying wrap/set lotion then roll the hair. The roots are wavy after dryer but you can doobie wrap or flat the root. Takes no time at all & reaps same results. I cut the pony tail holders out to avoid hair pulling (ouchless black one's). Would be my staple if I didn't hate the dryer so much!

  • Anonymous says:

    Your hair grew amazing, i followed you on youtube when you had your twa until you left, beautiful

  • Kimiko says:

    Girl this is beautiful!!!!! I have naturally long and thick hair. And I am tired of going to the shop and putting heat to it! You have gave me hope… I am dying to try this!
    You are awesome!!! πŸ™‚

  • Dejah says:

    Your hair has grown so beautifully! I hope my hair looks that healthy! I'm going to try this tomorrow πŸ™‚

  • Jo Somebody says:

    Wow! That is beautiful! What if you don't have a hair dryer though? Is there another way to do this? What would happen if you air dry?

  • Anonymous says:

    I have always wanted to do a roller set, my first time doing one turned out horrible, but I am going to try again this time using your tips…I am a little nervous because I have thick hair, and last time I got impatient cause I had to hair dry I will use a hooded dryer this time..cross your fingers. Great video, thanks you have inspired me.

  • Anonymous says:

    What a clear description that anyone can follow. Good to have you back online. You hair has really grown nicely. Say yes to versatile natural hair!

  • diamondcurls says:

    I am totally floored by your hair! *faint*

  • Margaret says:

    Jess's hair is absolutely gorgeous!!! Tremendous growth!!! The tutorial is very thorough and resourceful!!! Glad you are back and have about the blog. Hope more tutorials are available soon!!! πŸ™‚

  • Anonymous says:

    I remember the original video had another Kanye song. I love that you've updated the Kanye soundtrack. The music was wack. LOL.

  • Anonymous says:

    I love it and it looks beautiful. Thank you or sharing. LLP~OGC

  • Anonymous says:

    I only roller set to get my hair straight and following Jess's routine each time (the original video) works like a charm. The pin curls work too, but for me provided almost too much curl so I had to wrap my hair during my getting ready time to loosen the curl to my satisfaction.

    Great advice, tried and true, if you follow it exactly.

  • shamigreen says:

    @ Jess: How has the conditioner held up as a setting lotion substitute?

    Roller setting is my staple hairstyle, and I feel the same way about the "hardness" of setting lotion, so I dilute mine with water 50/50 mix.

    Also… Do you put oil on your hair while it's still wet, or do u wait til after it's dry?

  • Anonymous says:

    A. Yancey – this lady is MahoganyCurls AKA Jess. she inspired many of us when we were new choppers with her cute funky wash and gos and her lessons on refreshing hair with a water bottle plus she has such a nice personality. She was a Youtube hair guru, but last year, just a few months after i found her, she took her videos down; but now she's back! She has a blog called loveyourcurls and though her videos are not public anymore, you can follow her blog and she has promised to post her old vids!!!

  • prettybrowngirly says:

    Your hair looks beautiful. I've just suffered a major setback, but I'm coming for this style…in 2-3 years ;-/

  • Anonymous says:

    ^^^3rd time's a charm, I guess.

  • Anonymous says:

    Sooo pretty!! (I can't see my comment..)

  • A. Yancey says:

    Wow I'm SOOOOO impressed! Who is this woman? I need to go find her posts and read them all! This has inspired me to attempt a second roller set on my 3C hair. The first time I quit after putting in merely 2 rollers smh lol.

  • Anonymous says:

    Your hair is gorgeous. I know that has already been said a million times but it really is! I am so ready to finish transitioning! πŸ™

  • Shenay says:

    STUNNING!!! I have 3b hair and right now it's flat ironed and it's bone straight… I HATE bone straight hair! I think tonight I'll give this a go!! Thanks for re-inspiring me to do a roller set…

  • Anonymous says:

    Firstly your hair is gorgeous. And secondly, KUDOS!!! I give props to anyone who has the time, patience, and ability to do a roller set. And yours is awesome. Thanks for giving great instructions for us rollerset-challenged folks.

  • BreukelensFinest says:

    LOVE the results! definitely gives curlformers a run for their money

  • Anonymous says:


  • ShakLand says:

    I agree with many others – what a great tutorial! I'm going to try this tonight because I'm getting a little bored with my twist out (even though I love my hair). I love pin curling – been doing it since before I knew what it was (all I knew was I didn't have to wear rollers to bed, and it looked cute enough for me to run to the store or something without wearing a scarf, lol!).

  • Anonymous says:

    OMGoodness, your hairs is ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!

  • The Retro Natural says:

    Your hair has grown so much! It looks gorgeous!! πŸ™‚ and great tutorial too!

  • Unknown says:

    Your hair is gorgeous!!!! Thanks for sharing.

  • Anonymous says:

    I was thinking the exact same thing Shelly. If anyone has tried this with tighter curls-let us know how it turned out :).

  • Shelly says:

    would love to try this style. has anyone tried this on a tighter curl pattern, like 4b hair?? i would like to know…

  • Anonymous says:

    Your hair is lovely. I remember when you had a TWA. – Lisa

  • KCAS says:

    Your hair turned out marvelous!!!! It makes me wish to give a roller set a go. Thanks for sharing!

  • Anonymous says:

    This looks great. She has very beautiful hair– naturally curly or roller set. πŸ™‚

  • Kristen says:

    Absolutely gorgeous!!!! I love the way that came out. It's been a minute since I have done a roller set and even then I don't think I did it wet. I'll have to try this!!! Thanks for the inspiration and I'll have to check out Nikki's too to see how hers looked. Thanks!! ;o)

  • love.joi says:


  • Doc says:

    oh my goodness….it came out fabulous!! you're clearly a pro! very nice!

  • Heavenly Hummingbird says:

    simply beautiful!!! It crazy to see how long her hair is b/c i remember her hair when it was a twa….NICE!!!!

  • Jessi says:

    Your hair turned out gorgeous!!!!

  • Luscious Mahogany says:


  • GGmadeit says:

    OMG I adore Jess! She is my hair idol!! Her tips got me through my first year! I stalked her YT channel like a crazed person! LOL! Absolutely Stunning Jess!

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