What is Hair Typing?
Hair typing is a classification system that categorizes hair based on its curl pattern, strand thickness, and texture. This information is incredibly useful for tailoring your hair routine, choosing the right products, and achieving your hair goals. There are a few different hair typing systems, with the most popular being the Andre Walker Hair Typing Systemand theLOIS Hair Typing System. Each brings valuable insights that can help you better understand your hair’s needs.
Why is Hair Typing Important?
For many people, hair typing is not just about labeling their hair type; it’s about empowerment. It helps you:
- Understand what your hair naturally needs to thrive.
- Choose products that work with your specific texture.
- Find a care routine that keeps your curls, waves, or coils looking and feeling their best.
Now, let’s explore two popular hair typing systems and how they work.
Andre Walker Hair Typing System
In his book, Andre Talks Hair!, Andre Walker divides hair into these categories: type 1- straight hair, type 2- wavy hair, type 3- curly hair and type 4- kinky hair. Each of these categories also have sub-categories that divide them into different segments depending on texture and curl pattern. This is probably the most popular hair typing system that most naturals gravitate to.
The Categories:
Type 1 – Straight Hair
- 1A: Totally straight, thin, and fine with no body.
- 1B: Straight but with a bit more volume.
- 1C: Straight, coarse, and often prone to frizz in humidity.
Care Tips for Type 1 Hair:
- Use lightweight, volumizing shampoo to prevent flatness.
- Avoid heavy oils or butters.
- Dry shampoo can be your best friend for oily roots.
Type 2 – Wavy Hair
- 2A: Loose, fine waves that are easy to style.
- 2B: Defined S-shaped waves with some frizz.
- 2C: Thick, coarse waves prone to frizz and definition loss.
Care Tips for Type 2 Hair:
- Opt for sulfate-free shampoos to prevent stripping your natural oils.
- Use lightweight curl-enhancing creams or gels.
- A diffuser can help emphasize those waves without disturbing them.
Type 3 – Curly Hair
- 3A: Loose, large spirals with natural shine.
- 3B: Tighter, springy curls with more volume.
- 3C: Dense, tight curls with lots of texture.
Care Tips for Type 3 Hair:
- Hydration is key. Use moisturizing shampoos and conditioners.
- Define curls with a styling gel or curl cream applied to wet hair.
- Deep-condition weekly to avoid dryness and frizz.
Type 4 – Coily/Kinky Hair
- 4A: Dense, springy coils with an S-shape.
- 4B: Tight, densely packed Z-shaped coils with less defined curls.
- 4C: Tightly coiled with little to no defined pattern.
Care Tips for Type 4 Hair:
- Use rich, hydrating products like leave-in conditioners and hair butters.
- Seal in moisture with natural oils (like castor or argan oil).
- Protective styles, like braids, can minimize breakage and reduce manipulation.
This is Naturallycurly.com’s adaptation of the Andre Walker method and many are very familiar with this and find it quite helpful.
LOIS Hair Typing System
The LOIS Hair Typing System categorizes hair based on its pattern, strand size, and texture. It introduces a different perspective compared to the Andre Walker system. Here’s how it works:
Categories:
- L: If your hair forms right angles with no obvious curl or bend, it’s an L.
- O: If your hair forms a consistent, circular curl pattern, it’s an O.
- I: If your hair lies flat with no bends or curves, it’s an I.
- S: If your hair forms s-shaped waves or curls, it’s an S.
Strand Size:
- Fine strands are hard to see and feel soft.
- Medium strands are visible and feel smooth but firm.
- Thick strands are coarse and difficult to ignore.
This system also considers individual strand texture (whether your strands are silky, cottony, spongy, or wiry) to give a complete understanding of your hair type.
How to Determine Your Hair Type
Not sure where your hair fits in? Follow these steps to identify your hair type:
-
Start with Clean Hair
Wash your hair with a sulfate-free shampoo, avoiding any styling products. This ensures you’re observing your natural texture. -
Air Dry Your Hair
Allow your hair to dry naturally without any manipulation or heat. -
Observe the Pattern
Does your hair lie flat, wave slightly, spiral into curls, or form tight coils? This determines if you’re Type 1, 2, 3, or 4. -
Feel the Texture
Is your hair fine, medium, or thick? This tells you its overall density and texture needs. -
Test the Porosity
Float a strand of your hair in a bowl of water.- Floats = low porosity (resists moisture).
- Sinks = high porosity (absorbs moisture easily).
Product Recommendations by Hair Type
Shopping for the right products? Here’s what your hair type may need:
-
Type 1 Hair:
- Lightweight volumizing shampoos and conditioners.
- Dry shampoo for oily roots.
-
Type 2 Hair:
- Curl-enhancing gels or mousses.
- Anti-frizz serums for better wave definition.
-
Type 3 Hair:
- Moisturizing deep conditioners.
- Curl cream and styling gels for definition and hold.
-
Type 4 Hair:
- Leave-in conditioners and hair butters for hydration.
- Natural oils to seal in moisture and prevent breakage.
Frequently Asked Questions About Curly Hair Type –
Q1. Can I have multiple hair types?
Yes, it’s very common to have different curl types on different parts of your head!
Q2. How do I maintain my curls overnight?
Use a satin or silk bonnet or pillowcase to reduce friction. Try tying your hair in a “pineapple” to protect your curls.
Q3. How often should I wash my hair?
This depends on your type:
- Type 1–2 hair can be washed 2–3 times a week.
- Type 3–4 hair may only need washing once a week or co-washing in between.
Share Your Hair Story!
What’s your hair type? Have you found the perfect routine or product? Share your experiences in the comments below and connect with our community of natural hair lovers. Understanding your hair is a continuous journey, and together, we can learn, grow, and celebrate our curls, coils, and waves together!
Tip- If you have hair like CurlyNikki‘s, she considers herself 4a in the front and a mix of 4a and 3c in the back!
Read More-
This article was originally posted in 7/5/2021, but updated for clarity on 3/30/2025
FAQ’s
What is hair typing?
Hair typing is a system used to categorize hair based on its texture, curl pattern, and strand thickness. It helps you determine your curly hair type and choose the best products and care routine for your hair.
How do I determine my curly hair type?
To determine your curly hair type:
1. Wash your hair with a sulfate-free shampoo and skip styling products.
2. Allow your hair to air-dry naturally.
3. Observe your curl pattern:Loose curls = Type 3A
4. Tighter ringlets = Type 3B
5. Dense, springy curls = Type 3C
For more accuracy, check out hair typing guides like the Andre Walker system.
What are the most common curly hair types?
1. Type 2 (Wavy Hair): Loose, S-shaped waves.
2. Type 3 (Curly Hair): Spirals or springy curls.
3. Type 4 (Coily/Kinky Hair): Tight coils or z-shaped curl patterns.
How do I care for my curly hair type?
1. Type 2: Use lightweight, curl-enhancing products and anti-frizz serums.
2. Type 3: Moisturize with curl creams and deep conditioners.
3. Type 4: Opt for rich, hydrating leave-in conditioners and oils to seal in moisture.
What are the best products for curly hair?
1. Shampoos: Use sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoos.
2. Conditioners: Deep conditioners and leave-ins tailored to hydration and curl definition.
3. Stylers: Curl creams, gels, and mousses are great for defining curls.
How can I maintain my curls overnight?
Use a satin or silk scarf, bonnet, or pillowcase to reduce friction while sleeping. You can also try the “pineapple” method by gathering your curls into a loose ponytail on top of your head.
Can I have a mix of curly hair types?
Yes, many people have a mix of textures across their scalp. For example, you might have Type 3B curls at the crown and Type 3C coils at the nape.
What’s the difference between low and high porosity hair?
1. Low porosity: Hair resists moisture and may feel dry or dense. Use lightweight, water-based products.
2. High porosity: Hair absorbs moisture easily but loses it quickly. Opt for heavier creams and oils to lock in hydration.
How often should I wash curly hair?
1. Type 2: Wash 2-3 times a week with a moisturizing or volumizing shampoo.
2. Type 3 & 4: Wash 1-2 times a week, relying on co-washing or refreshing in between.
How can I prevent frizz in curly hair?
Frizz is common with curly hair due to dryness. Try these tips:
1. Avoid over-washing and stick to sulfate-free shampoos.
2. Lock in moisture with leave-in conditioners and styling gels.
3. Use a diffuser on your blow dryer to dry curls gently without disrupting their shape.
What’s the LOIS hair typing system?
The LOIS system categorizes hair based on patterns:
L: Right-angle bends.
O: Circular curls or coils.
I: Straight, no bends.
S: S-shaped waves or curls.
This system also considers strand size and texture for a complete assessment.
Why is hair typing important for curly hair care?
Hair typing helps you understand your hair’s unique needs so you can choose the best products and styling techniques. It acts as a guide to care for your hair effectively and maintain its health.
Have more questions? Share them in the comments below, and we’ll help you decode your unique curl pattern and care needs!
